Our '66 Overlander had the fresh water tank disconnected for over 20 years before we bought it. I hooked the hoses back up for the pump and tank, but cannot remove the fresh water fill cap on the front of the trailer to be able to fill the tank. According to the owners manual we need to remove this cap even to fill from the city water connection (using the bypass valve) so that the city water pressure doesn't burst the plastic tank.
So far, I have tried one of those rubber pipe wrench thaings that grab really tightly all it did was slip. I also tried tapping on the cap with a hammer in all sorts of directions and using a hair dryier to heat up the cap. None of this worked, even when doing all three almost simultaneously. Oh yeah, I also applied a little penetrating oil, too.
Since the cap and filler neck seem to be aluminum I was wondering if I could apply a torch to it to heat it up, or would that melt the aluminum or cause some other damage. I'm about to the point of removing the filler neck and cap from the trailer to be able to get better leverage by screwing the neck down to some wood.
I seem to remember seeing a previous post about this topic, but now cannot fnd them. So, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Our '66 Overlander had the fresh water tank disconnected for over 20 years before we bought it. I hooked the hoses back up for the pump and tank, but cannot remove the fresh water fill cap on the front of the trailer to be able to fill the tank. According to the owners manual we need to remove this cap even to fill from the city water connection (using the bypass valve) so that the city water pressure doesn't burst the plastic tank.
So far, I have tried one of those rubber pipe wrench thaings that grab really tightly all it did was slip. I also tried tapping on the cap with a hammer in all sorts of directions and using a hair dryier to heat up the cap. None of this worked, even when doing all three almost simultaneously. Oh yeah, I also applied a little penetrating oil, too.
Since the cap and filler neck seem to be aluminum I was wondering if I could apply a torch to it to heat it up, or would that melt the aluminum or cause some other damage. I'm about to the point of removing the filler neck and cap from the trailer to be able to get better leverage by screwing the neck down to some wood.
I seem to remember seeing a previous post about this topic, but now cannot fnd them. So, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Joe
This is a "long-shot", but it might help. If the coach was used in an area with exceptionally hard water, there may be deposits around the filler neck in the area of the threads. A treatment with white vinegar might help to dissolve any deposits enough to assist in the removal of the cap - - my thought would be to fill a "turkey baster" with the white vinegar and use it to try to force the white vinegar into the threads around the circumference of the cap - - then saturate a rag in the vinegar, wrap it around the filler covering it with plastic wrap and allow it to soak in the direct sun if possible for a few hours. This method may not help, but it shouldn't harm the surrounding finish.
Good luck in finding a solution to your water filler problem!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
You may want to try the heat method again too. Carefully heat up the fill spout/cap junction with a propane torch-be extremely careful to not warp the surrounding aluminum and remove your propane tanks! Then, while the area is hot, melt candle wax into the joint and remove the heat. Let the area cool completely, then try to remove the cap. be sure not to over heat the area after you add the wax. You don't want it to burn off. And be sure to let the area cool before trying to remove the cap. That will let the metal contract as it cools and let the wax expand into the threads as it cools.
Kevin,
I doubt that it is hard water deposits as the PO says he only had the cap off once in the 28 years he owned the trailer (and I bet is was 28 years ago!). However, anything might be worth a try. We'll see next weekend.
Tripp,
Your procedure almost sounds unbeleivable, but I don't want to discount it offhand because I certainly and not an expert in the properties of wax. Is this the voice of experience or just a theory? In any case, thanks for your thoughts!
Kevin,
Tripp,
Your procedure almost sounds unbeleivable, but I don't want to discount it offhand because I certainly and not an expert in the properties of wax. Is this the voice of experience or just a theory? In any case, thanks for your thoughts!
Joe
Wax makes a great lubricant. I worked in a metal stamping operation that used it to draw steel for awhile. There was a large coater that melted it, the flat panel was coated on both sides as it ran through rollers. They quit because the wax built up inside the dies and began to break them open.
I've used it on wood to hand form aluminum parts that need to be stretched for a deep form, works great.
The wax technique is an old hot rodders trick to remove rusted fasteners in engine blocks. Usually works without too much difficulty. I know it sounds strange, but it really does work! Doesn't matter if you use candles that smell like cookies either!
I've got the same problem- only I have loosened the hose clamp inside and after undoing the screws the whole assembly comes out for filling.
I will try the wax trick personally and report. I have clamped my unit to a bench and tried 2 big 'mother' pipe wrenches and all I did was put a hairline crack in the neck and mess up the cap (through the duct tape).
Definitely get the thing off your trailer because torqing on it will distort the skin.
__________________
Murray
AIR #189
"If aluminum isn't magnetic- why am I so attracted to to it?"
I do not know if this will help, but I have attached a picture of what my '67 Overlander filler cap looks like unscrewed. To me, the wax idea sounds like a good idea, but the coarseness of the threads would keep the wax from penetrating very deep.
If nothing else, notice the "flats" that bisect the threads. If you have them, they would be a perfect spot to direct penetrating oil.
Great pic. Joe-if yours looks like this, then I too would recommend taking it off the trailer to remove the cap. I had envisioned something akin to my 56 where the cap was the "male" side. The wax could then flow with gravity.
Also, if you try the wax, give the cap a few light raps with a small hammer as it cools. I would try one of those rubber "strap" wrenches to avoid marring the cap.
by the looks of the flats inside that cap it was made for a spanner type wrench to fit incase it gets stuck. the spanner wrench will not mar the outside.
Take 2 hammers. Place one hammer against the side of the cap and take the other hammer and strike the opposite side. Go around the cap striking it in this manner. Do this several times. This is an old plumber/pipefitters trick. Works every time for me.....an old pipefighter, er, pipefitter.
Just don't strike it hard enough to dent it.
__________________
-BobbyW AIR# 123
-Guess what? I got a fever! And the only prescription.. is more cowbell!
-"You want to make it two inches - or, if you're working in centimeters, make sure it's enough centimeters for two inches."
-Red Green
The picture above does look like the filler neck and cap on our trailer. I hope to have some time this weekend to take the whole thing off the trailer and try some of your suggestions. I'll let you know what worked if I have success.
Wax makes a great lubricant. I worked in a metal stamping operation that used it to draw steel for awhile. There was a large coater that melted it, the flat panel was coated on both sides as it ran through rollers. They quit because the wax built up inside the dies and began to break them open.
I've used it on wood to hand form aluminum parts that need to be stretched for a deep form, works great.
John
I've heard of wax being used to coat metal to preserve it from the elements, such as a new dutch oven or cast iron cookware, rifles and pistols way back when were coated for shipment, but I have never heard of it being used as a lubricant, doubt it penetrating capabilities.
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