Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-08-2013, 03:40 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
crane422's Avatar
 
1978 23' Safari
Columbia , Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 61
Some help please..

So as I near the dread re plumbing of my 23' Safari I realize that my knowledge is very lacking and I decided to be smart and ask for some help. As you can see from the before picture the PO had done a number on the plumbing so it is no help. The diagram is what I "think" is the correct way to do it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AS before.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	76.6 KB
ID:	180469   Click image for larger version

Name:	AS Plumbing.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	157.8 KB
ID:	180470  

__________________

__________________
crane422 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2013, 04:02 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,323
Overall your diagram looks fine. I would add 2 more tee's and a ball valve where I drew it below in red. This will let you bypass the water heater when winterizing the trailer.

You should also add low point drains. One for the hot water line and one for the cold water line. These should be installed at the lowest point of each line, and then make sure each line never goes up and then back down. Additional low places in the lines will trap water when it's time to winterize.

I'm not sure the ball valve on the city water inlet is really needed. If you buy a city water inlet with a built in check valve, then that ball valve would be redundant. Doesn't hurt anything to have it though.

One other point is I did not install shut-off valves at each fixture. Some folks do, some don't. Mostly a personal preference, so install them if you want. Again, they won't hurt and can provide some peace of mind.

Chris

Click image for larger version

Name:	AS Plumbing.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	234.1 KB
ID:	180472
__________________

__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2013, 08:33 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
crane422's Avatar
 
1978 23' Safari
Columbia , Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 61
Thanks. Question. Don't the ball valves on the lines going in/out of water heater do the same thing as the bypass?
__________________
crane422 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2013, 10:13 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by crane422 View Post
Thanks. Question. Don't the ball valves on the lines going in/out of water heater do the same thing as the bypass?
They do part of the job, they stop the water from going into and out of the tank, they just don't let the water (well air and/or RV anti-freeze) go past the tank to winterize the pipes.
__________________
Wazbro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 12:12 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
The diagram looks good. Except for the 3rd valve to bypass the water heater.
When I rebuilt the plumbing in our trailer. I removed all of the old copper and replaced it with PEX.
I did not reinstall any drain valves. I don't see the point in using them. First: How do you determine the LOW point in the trailer? Since it has a relatively flat floor. Let's say you put the drain valves in the back of the trailer (rear bath) for example: If you don't have the tongue jack at or above the theoretical low level, the water won't run out. Let's say the drain valves are on the street side (rear) and the galley sink is on the curb side towards the front. If the trailer is parked where the curb side is lower than the street side, the water won't run out. So now what? Do you add more drain valves in different places to compensate for this type of stuff?
Drain valves just create more problems for an RV owner. Just more things you have to maintain and check when you winterize and summerize.
I blow out the lines and pump RV anti freeze into the system. Only after draining and BYPASSING the water heater. The only reason I blow as much water out of the lines as I can is to prevent dilution of the RV antifreeze by using it to push the water out.
I did put a ball valve in the city water line, as well as down stream from the pump. Sometimes the check valves that come in the pump or city water inlet will get a grain of sand or other obstruction and prevent them from sealing properly. Which may mean replacing a perfectly good pump just because you are on City water and you are filling and over flowing the fresh water tank. Because the check valve in the pump is letting water flow backwards thru the pump. With a valve, you can just close it.
Been using this system for the 4th winter season with temps of -40 and have had no problems.
I am a firm believer in the KISS method of doing things.
One more thing. The pressure regulator is external of the trailer. If it failed it would be easily replaced, since it is not hard piped into the plumbing system.
I like EASY.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 10:11 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
The diagram looks good. Except for the 3rd valve to bypass the water heater.
When I rebuilt the plumbing in our trailer. I removed all of the old copper and replaced it with PEX.
I did not reinstall any drain valves. I don't see the point in using them. First: How do you determine the LOW point in the trailer? Since it has a relatively flat floor. Let's say you put the drain valves in the back of the trailer (rear bath) for example: If you don't have the tongue jack at or above the theoretical low level, the water won't run out. Let's say the drain valves are on the street side (rear) and the galley sink is on the curb side towards the front. If the trailer is parked where the curb side is lower than the street side, the water won't run out. So now what? Do you add more drain valves in different places to compensate for this type of stuff?
Drain valves just create more problems for an RV owner. Just more things you have to maintain and check when you winterize and summerize.
I blow out the lines and pump RV anti freeze into the system. Only after draining and BYPASSING the water heater. The only reason I blow as much water out of the lines as I can is to prevent dilution of the RV antifreeze by using it to push the water out.
I did put a ball valve in the city water line, as well as down stream from the pump. Sometimes the check valves that come in the pump or city water inlet will get a grain of sand or other obstruction and prevent them from sealing properly. Which may mean replacing a perfectly good pump just because you are on City water and you are filling and over flowing the fresh water tank. Because the check valve in the pump is letting water flow backwards thru the pump. With a valve, you can just close it.
Been using this system for the 4th winter season with temps of -40 and have had no problems.
I am a firm believer in the KISS method of doing things.
One more thing. The pressure regulator is external of the trailer. If it failed it would be easily replaced, since it is not hard piped into the plumbing system.
I like EASY.
Well a friend of mine has an external pressure regulator and no city water check valve and he uses the city water as a low point drain and to compensate for it not quite being the lowest point he attaches a wet/dry shop vac to it which quickly drains the water from the system, probably more effective then blowing the water uphill to get it out.
__________________
Wazbro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 02:03 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Sounds like a great idea, using a shop vac. Never gave it a thought.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 10:56 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
crane422's Avatar
 
1978 23' Safari
Columbia , Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 61
Thanks for all the responses. Ordered all the fittings, pex, clamps, tools, yesterday and just waiting for arrival. If my wife ever realizes how much $ is spent on this thing I need to make it nice since Ill be living in it.
__________________

__________________
crane422 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.