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Old 09-10-2016, 07:32 AM   #1
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Rerouting fresh water inlet and lines..suggestions?

So thanks to some helpful folks on the forum I learned that the previous owner had routed the city water inlet beneath the trailer and up under sink rather than open floor (i assume).

Well this got ripped off when I passed over some debris (tractor trailer tire I'm recalling). So now there is no city water inlet and a pipe with a drain valve on curb side hanging down.

I've no time to pull up the floor so I'm thinking about doing the same as PO but hopefully improving it.

I'll use PEX and have to create a bracket for intake, will add a 2nd check valve too.

Has anyone else done this or does anyone else have ideas on best practices? The previous connection was street side which makes no sense why they'd run that copper from under refer back and then into AS under sink area...unless there is some other connection that is gone as well.

Im thinking of placing it all curb side...does this sound reasonable?
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Old 09-10-2016, 08:46 AM   #2
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The city water inlet is located street side because that is where most campgrounds have water and electrical hookups.

The water line crosses to the curb side in the basement. Probably had freeze break and po didn't want to remove belly pan to fix.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:01 AM   #3
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Rerouting fresh water inlet and lines..suggestions?

There is no reason that your plan wont work. 1/2" pex wont hang down much.

Git'er done and go camping!


Gradiens super tenui glacie.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:20 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
There is no reason that your plan wont work. 1/2" pex wont hang down much.

Git'er done and go camping!


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I like your attitude! I'm wondering just how much of the existing plumbing is MacGyvered...there is a fresh water tank drain that sort of looks OE.

So just to verify...if i reconnected the city water inlet to the fresh water tank drain that should pretty much do it? My pic below shows what is left...next season I'll pursue belly pan removal.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:00 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by hopmonster View Post

So just to verify...if i reconnected the city water inlet to the fresh water tank drain that should pretty much do it? My pic below shows what is left...next season I'll pursue belly pan removal.
No. This would fill tank then overflow thru fresh water inlet.

I don't think what is protruding thru belly pan is TANK drain but a system drain.

A tank drain would be before water pump a system drain would be after pump.

If it is after pump the check valve in pump will prevent water from filling tank.

I'd try to put it back like po had it, just make sure you aren't filling fresh water tank when you pressurize system.

You may also consider putting new city water inlet that connects to plumbing elswhere. Where is your water heater located? You could tap in there then shut valve under trailer. Problem solved.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:37 AM   #6
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No. This would fill tank then overflow thru fresh water inlet.

I don't think what is protruding thru belly pan is TANK drain but a system drain.

A tank drain would be before water pump a system drain would be after pump.

If it is after pump the check valve in pump will prevent water from filling tank.

I'd try to put it back like po had it, just make sure you aren't filling fresh water tank when you pressurize system.

You may also consider putting new city water inlet that connects to plumbing elswhere. Where is your water heater located? You could tap in there then shut valve under trailer. Problem solved.
You're right...Went and had a closer look. When we bought it I noticed spray foam around back flow valve under sink but didn't sweat it too much. PO obviously cut hole through floor here, installed a low point drain and then connected city water up to pump. Probably just abandoned pipes in the floor, his routing underneath is just odd as he dragged it way back curb side then must have cut across to beneath Refer where the inlet once was.

I could cut hole on curb side and install a nice Shurflo inlet there...maybe adjacent to fresh water fill. I'd just have to use long hose from city water connection at site. Would save running PEX underneath and fabbing some sort of bracket...but scary hole sawing into skin.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:05 PM   #7
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My line came in rear roadside under bed then ran above floor along wall to refer compartment then down beneath floor to curbside beneath oven where pump located.

Between copper plumbing and hose/power reel I probably removed 100 pounds.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:50 PM   #8
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"I could cut hole on curb side and install a nice Shurflo inlet there...maybe adjacent to fresh water fill. I'd just have to use long hose from city water connection at site. Would save running PEX underneath and fabbing some sort of bracket...but scary hole sawing into skin."

Yep cutting that hole is nerve racking. If you drill it in the middle of some ribs with no rivets near by you've got a good chance nothing will be there. Also you want to try to stay away from where the ac condensate drain comes out the bottom. Unfortunately no guarantees on that one.
If the back inside will be hidden you can try there first to fish around through a smaller hole for wires. Normally 99% of the plumbing is above the floor. PEX on the bottom is a good temp fix, but it is UV sensitive, so you'll want to get it inside at some point. Being under the trailer will reduce the uv exposure.
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