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Old 05-07-2014, 06:29 AM   #15
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Bob, could you please explain why you thought it necessary to install the boat fitting? Thanks, Hank
Hank
Both are boat fittings, but I think you are referring to the small vent on the bottom. The thought is that it is possible for the tank to backfill from the connection that the pump has to make to the main water supply. There is an isolation valve and should be checkvalve protected from water going back into the tank through the pump.

Isolation valve on the right between the pump and filter and the main water supply in blue:



But if that checkvalve fails and the isolation valve is open, the tank will fill from city water pressure and then it will overflow out. With the vent underneath, it could flood the inside of the trailer. Also, the new water fill is a tight seal, not open like it was originally so it would not flow out there.

An alternative would have been to direct the vent somehow into the sink drain. I did see some plumbing parts at Lowes that might have worked for that, but had already bought the vent fitting and installed it. But with the way it is set up now, if it does backfill then there is a easily seen flow, otherwise it could leak back into the drain and you would never know it. HTH.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:33 PM   #16
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Thanks, Bob. It is the overflow issue that I did not understand. Hank
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:31 AM   #17
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Thanks for posting this up (with pics, no less)! I'm just getting to figuring out what I was going to do with the fill port on the Ambassador I'm fixing up. The key slot's been damaged beyond repair, and the tab it locks against has been bent back slightly so the door doesn't stay closed. This marine setup (and the vent cap as well) is exactly the solution I was looking for.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:26 AM   #18
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You're welcome. Post some pix when you are done.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:46 AM   #19
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another mod I would like to see done is replacing the fresh water dump valve with a blade type valve like on the black and grey tank. This would allow for better flush and cleaning of the fresh tank. A SOB 5er that I had had one.
mike
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:45 PM   #20
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another mod I would like to see done is replacing the fresh water dump valve with a blade type valve like on the black and grey tank. This would allow for better flush and cleaning of the fresh tank. A SOB 5er that I had had one.
mike
Since redoing / repairing the kitching plumbing is part of what I'm working on next, got an example of the kind of valve your talking about?
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:46 PM   #21
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You're welcome. Post some pix when you are done.
I will try to remember to do that, I'm way behind on posting photos in my own project thread.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:33 AM   #22
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Heya Bob, got it set up, and here's some pics. Thanks again for sharing this info with us!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f354...ml#post1662321
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:30 AM   #23
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Heya Bob, got it set up, and here's some pics. Thanks again for sharing this info with us!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f354...ml#post1662321

Beautiful work. The original water fill is just a poor design overall and if you depend on that water for drinking, it should be replaced and the tank dropped and cleaned.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:12 AM   #24
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Great info, pics and help. I will be coming back to this thread many times! Thank you all!
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:22 PM   #25
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Beautiful work. The original water fill is just a poor design overall and if you depend on that water for drinking, it should be replaced and the tank dropped and cleaned.
No kidding. "Lucky me" mine was damaged by the previous owners!
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:41 PM   #26
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Valve system

I would love to learn more about your valve system. I am gutting a new purchase of a 59 flying cloud and will be doing everything new. I like what you have done, if you would mind explaining it in simple speak, I would really really appreciate it! Perhaps via PM.

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
Hank
Both are boat fittings, but I think you are referring to the small vent on the bottom. The thought is that it is possible for the tank to backfill from the connection that the pump has to make to the main water supply. There is an isolation valve and should be checkvalve protected from water going back into the tank through the pump.

Isolation valve on the right between the pump and filter and the main water supply in blue:



But if that checkvalve fails and the isolation valve is open, the tank will fill from city water pressure and then it will overflow out. With the vent underneath, it could flood the inside of the trailer. Also, the new water fill is a tight seal, not open like it was originally so it would not flow out there.

An alternative would have been to direct the vent somehow into the sink drain. I did see some plumbing parts at Lowes that might have worked for that, but had already bought the vent fitting and installed it. But with the way it is set up now, if it does backfill then there is a easily seen flow, otherwise it could leak back into the drain and you would never know it. HTH.
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:10 PM   #27
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Albert
The cold and hot (blue and red) come from the back of the trailer. The picture shows incomplete plumbing, there are now two lines going up to the sink hot and cold faucet. There are also two valves that allow for draining each line down through the floor to winterize. When they are closed, pressure is maintained to the kitchen faucet.

If you look, there is one line that is the translucent tubing with the white cross hatching. That is the output of the water pump and it is cross connected back into the cold water supply. The idea is that if you are on city or park water, you close that valve and the water then can only go up to the sink. If you are running on the pump, you open that valve and then the cold water can go back to the sink as well as flow back aft to the rest of the system including the hot water heater.

The valve also serves another purpose, it isolates the pump and tank so that when you are on city water, the tank does not backfill, even if there is a check valve in place. As far as I know, this was the original setup with the copper plumbing as well. It may not look like it, it was much more of a mess when I first started working on it and it took some head scratching to figure out how they had it all connected.

Hope this helps, feel free to ask any more questions.

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