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Old 04-04-2006, 12:31 PM   #1
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Replacing Galvanized Steel Tank - '61 Bambi

Time has finally come. I think! Uwe and Flyfshr gave me a link to a great water tank place. I just sent off an email for a rough quote.

Here are a couple of photos of the exisiting tank. It doesn't leak so you are probably wondering why I am doing the "If it ain't broke thing". Well I figure it weighs around 60 - 75 lbs. 50 at the very least. 10" in diameter and 55" long not including the slightly rounded ends. I have alway assumed it holds around 15 - 18 gallons. (thickness of wall taking up some of the allowable volume) Well, I figure I can add 10 gallons without altering the front end weight too much. Then I'll not have to carry my extra containers in the truck when boondocking. (which is almost always)

My question is, can I put one of the new poly tanks right on the floor? This tank is sitting on two cupping supports and strapped in.

Jeepers am I making any sense?
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:26 PM   #2
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I can get you an aluminum one the same size. It weighs 20 lbs.
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstrmGypsy
Time has finally come. I think! Uwe and Flyfshr gave me a link to a great water tank place. I just sent off an email for a rough quote.
...My question is, can I put one of the new poly tanks right on the floor? This tank is sitting on two cupping supports and strapped in.

Jeepers am I making any sense?
Yes, it can sit on the floor in that location. 3/4" plywood has plenty of strength and it's supported directly on the frame. If you are concerned, one layer of plywood under the tank should do the trick.

What's the link to the tank vendor you mentioned? Will the filler hole in the shell still be appropriate for the new tank?

Why didn't we do this when we tore out the kitchen?
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
What's the link to the tank vendor you mentioned? Will the filler hole in the shell still be appropriate for the new tank?

Why didn't we do this when we tore out the kitchen?
I was really more concerned with vibration rubbing an eventual hole in a poly tank. Tank vendor via uwe is http://all-rite.com

The real question is, why didn't we do this when we tore out the couches? Or when we sealed the leak in the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markadone
I can get you an aluminum one the same size. It weighs 20 lbs.
would it be round or square? and what is the weight of a poly tank? Any idea? Cost?
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstrmGypsy
would it be round or square? and what is the weight of a poly tank? Any idea? Cost?
It's pretty much cylindrical.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:30 PM   #6
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If you want a rectangular tank, I would go with a stock size from Ronco. They are cheaper than a custom tank, they're rotationally cast (stronger), and you can still specify where you want the fittings.

An 18 gallon polyethylene rectangular tank will be about 30 lbs.
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:15 PM   #7
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I had the same tank but in aluminum. It was nasty inside and I had no idea what was put in there before I bought it. Forty some years is a long time to get gunky. I put a custom ordered one in mine in the same place you want to put yours. It is now 33 gallons and is rectangular. The aluminum tank weighed next to nothing and the original water fill tube took some work but i got it to hook up to the new tank with the aid of some adapters and special fittings. I'll post some pix to this thread tonight. The poly tank cost just over $200.

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Old 04-04-2006, 07:28 PM   #8
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Here's a photo of the tank in place. Hard to see the amount of space the tank takes up with the white walls but I think you'll get the idea. I need to find the photos of the water fill tube as it mates to the new poly tank.

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Old 04-04-2006, 10:25 PM   #9
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I think I can see flyfshr's pump just to the left and aft of the tank, near where your pump is. I think if you can get the fill fitting positioned correctly, all you need to do is specify one outlet at the bottom of the street side, which could be teed to the pump and the drain. What's the dimension from the front wall of the trailer to the frame for your under-couch drawers? And how high is the space for the water tank?
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:38 AM   #10
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The idea of only have one outlet for the tank is nice, but it means I put ANOTHER hole in the floor of my trailer and then have to adequately plug the original drain hole. These guys are pretty good at placement if I can be exact.

The depth available at my aforementioned length is 10" If I decrease the length of the tank by 5" I only get an extra 3/4", but I would have to replace those big 2x4 blocks holing up the goucho with something thin and equally strong. Maximum height is also 10 3/4".

markadone - I like the idea of your tank being so light but my goal is to get more storage capacity and I'm not sure I would get anything more out of the aluminum tank except the thickness of the wall. Do you know the actual capacity is? And I am assuming it is 55+ inches?

I have not heard back from all-rite. Think I will call them in the next couple of days.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:02 AM   #11
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Gypsy,

The capacity is the same as your galvanized. I thought that if it saved 50 lbs of tongue weight, it would let you carry 5 or 6 gallons more water in jugs without increasing the tongue weight.

If you want more capacity, you need a larger tank, which is what I'm doing, which is why the aluminum tank is available.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:14 PM   #12
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Hello Airstrm Gypsy,

My 60 tradewind had an aluminum tank . after 40 years it was trash . Had tons of corrosion particles in it also in the faucet bibs. If someone s tank is perfect inside, as in like new that would fit back in there without much trouble . some tanks were galvanized steel . i had a stainless steel cylidrical tank made to fit in . it has a little more capacity but if boondocking a larger tank or an extra tank mounted somplace would be great . I wanted the feel of the original style and features of these trailers with the noncorrosive stainless steel . remember raw aluminum will corrode. markdoane is correct about capacity . going bigger means more water you can have on board.

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Old 04-06-2006, 10:03 AM   #13
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salvaged tanks

I dropped by Cherokee in Denver yesterday and took these photos. Your dimensions of 10" diameter and 55" long might be amenable to a tank 12" thick (fore to aft direction) if the tank was shortened to 48" and the baces against the front wall were modified/removed. Any, you can see the examples here. Maybe the two tanks that are 16 and 17-1/2" inches tall would be close. I included the side view of the 40 gal tank (17-1/2" tank) so you could see the construction. Some tanks have bulges, some don't. How much vertical clearance do you have?

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I asked about cost and it looked like the counterperson pulled out a copy of the ABC RV catalog (this is a must-have book for any AS owner!) and estimated about 1/2 price for similar tanks, so $60-80.
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
I dropped by Cherokee in Denver yesterday and took these photos. Your dimensions of 10" diameter and 55" long might be amenable to a tank 12" thick (fore to aft direction) if the tank was shortened to 48" and the baces against the front wall were modified/removed. Any, you can see the examples here. Maybe the two tanks that are 16 and 17-1/2" inches tall would be close. I included the side view of the 40 gal tank (17-1/2" tank) so you could see the construction. Some tanks have bulges, some don't. How much vertical clearance do you have?

Attachment 20224Attachment 20225

Attachment 20226

I asked about cost and it looked like the counterperson pulled out a copy of the ABC RV catalog (this is a must-have book for any AS owner!) and estimated about 1/2 price for similar tanks, so $60-80.
Yes, I just measured and could get a 12" fore to aft in there. What would the volume be at 10 1/2" tall?

The blue tank in the first picture looks closest to the right size. Making any more trips that way?????
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