Replacing fresh water tank drain valve - 2014 23D

[CRH]

You can buy a set of electric shears at Harbor Freight that will cut a metal pan like paper. I bought a set when I cut an access hole to replace my dump valves.

[featherbedder]

Has any body installed drain valves 1n 1976 or any yrs. this era as they don't have drains. You have to pump down with water pump and does not remove all water from tank. I will never put Anti freeze in fresh water tank. At present time do not winterize, store in heated shop but still drain as much water as can. There isn't a access panel under tank. Bill

[BillfromWI]

Hey, Rob, I wonder if there is a flanged fitting with a barb on one end for the short hose and a thread on the outside to screw on a cap, ala Casita drain. It would drain the tank much faster.

I replaced the plastic valve with a brass hose barb and plug. It's bullet-proof (but needs a wrench) and I thought it would drain faster, but it doesn't.

I haven't decided whether I'm cursed or blessed by having a galvanized pan instead of plastic. Cutting a proper access hole into the metal pan will certainly be more complicated than cutting. Into plastic. Darn!

I suggest a "nibbler", either manual or powered. This tool cuts a strip or little "divots" of sheet metal through a die so neither side of the cut is distorted. They start through a drilled hole the size of the die ~3/8".

The powered versions may be more than you would spend for one use, but nibblers are pretty common--you could probably rent one.

Rodman & Company (800) 228-1806 sells a U.K. made Lang Nibbler that is driven by a power drill. It's a nice tool. I don't remember what I paid for mine.

And finally, Harbor Freight used to sell a Taiwanese manual punch and die version that works well. I'm pretty sure these are still available elsewhere. It is featured in this Wikipedia article:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nibbler

The advantage of manual, beside price, is that it will not go places you don't intend. But the powered versions are pretty controllable too.

[khende]

Amazing Forum, thank-you to all who post.
FYI: The 2017 Flying Cloud does not have an access panel. I was told by the distributor, "you have to drop the underbelly".
I drilled out two rivets, and using your suggestions I carefully used a Dremel (small cutting wheel) just penetrating the sheet metal to cut a 6x6" access hole centered under the drain valve.
DIY warning: The foam insulation in this model is < 1/2" thick with the heating wires in the general area. See photos for reference. FYI: Heat from the cutting wheel melted the foam insulation.
Using your suggestions I purchased a 3/8" radiator drain plug from an auto store, and a 3/8" to 1/2" reducing coupling, barbed fitting, and 3/4" washers at Home Depot. I drilled 2 holes in the washers (equal spacing as original plastic drain valve), and tapped the inside washer so the washers could be sandwiched/bolted to the sheetmetal (see photo). A metal file allowed for everything to sit flush.
DIY warning: Installation of tubing becomes difficult.
Everything bolted in easy and I used lock-tite; but I had to cut, heat, and bend/fold the tubing to push over the barbed fittings. FYI: Since the tubing was so short I didn't re-instal the original "spring" wire inside the tubing.
Novel Idea: I used S-Cleats (designed to join sections of sheet metal) and cut to fit over the three sides of the "new" access hole.
I caulked the original foam insulation to the original piece of sheet metal, filed down the sides so that I could wedge in place (no photo).
Using a new and thicker piece of sheet metal, I cut it ~2" longer than the access hole and "slid" it into the S-cleats and secured with a sheet metal screw. Importantly, the extra length protects the new valve over a greater area (photo).
Rationale for using 3/8" valve vs. eBay 1/8" valve is flow... which I believe is dependent upon radius ^4th power. I'll know if this works when we re-start our adventures next year.
With that caveat, I hope this information is helpful as your prior posts encouraged me to pursue the DIY route. Safe travels!

[Spot]

I just went through this process, on a FB2017 25’ Flying Cloud. First observation: thanks a lot, Airstream. By using a cheap plastic piece of junk, with no resistance to UV Rays of Death, you just cost me dozens of dollars (hardware and tools), and hours of time.
The access to this valve and connecting pipe is TINY. The positioning of the hose clamp made it even worse. It’s not a job for human sized hands.
I’ve got to give a shout-out to the flange offered on eBay by brucejohnh. I will confess that at first I thought it overpriced, and that I would put something together on my own. But, considering the space available to work in, the flange was a lifesaver, and worth the cost. It’s the perfect solution, brilliantly fabricated, and I can now EASILY replace the petcock drain if a piece of road pizza shears it off. But wow, what an ordeal.

[CruizinDux]

khende, I just realized you have a 20 as well and thinking you have offered a wonderful path to my repair. My only difference is that I’ll be ordering the alu barbed flange so it’s a one piece attachment.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WA...c=1&rmvSB=true

I have a couple of questions if I may.
· Do you still have your notes and can rough in the dimensions in the picture?


· Am I correct in that the wiring originated in the bathroom and headed to the rear to the tank…so maybe the first few cuts would be on the rear ( and tank tap) side as opposed to the wiring side. Easy fix but would be nice to stay away of possible.


· Confirming ½”clearance of the pan insulation to the plastic tank… including the insulation....yikes!


· Did you replace the poly?


· Did you use a hair dryer or otherwise to make it easier to remove or did it twist right off after loosening the clamp?




Any other tips, comments or other dimensions I should be aware of would be appreciated.


Happy Trails

[Spot]

I have a recommendation, after having done this repair last year. Go with a metal plug, not the goofy brass water line valve, from the water evaporator era. Mine immediately clogged. Removing the plug actually allows the tank to drain!

[CruizinDux]

Interesting feedback, thanks!

[SHaley]

Thanks for the ideas. I've been winterizing using a half tank of stolichnaya elit 80 proof. No freezing in our mild winters so far but man that first spring trip is a doozie. The kids are all falling down and can't hardly walk and driving an backing is like seeing double. I should probably upgrade to a drain valve.

[khende]

CruizinDux,
I think you made a wise choice on the one-piece aluminum barbed flange, vs. fabricating.
I don't have any notes, but you can extrapolate dimensions with the ruler in the photo.

Your notes on front and back directions are correct. If you "feather" the cutting wheel, I recall the wiring is above the insulation and you should be "safe". But yes, the 1/2" clearance was close!
I kept the original polyurethane hose, and used a heat gun to soften the tubing.

I think the biggest tip is the route you're taking....upgrading to a metal fitting/drain. I also like the use of the S-Cleat ductwork to create an access panel, and the extension of the the panel beyond the pan to protect the drain plug will hopefully minimize damage in the future. Good luck with your repairs and happy trails!

[CruizinDux]

khende, thanks for the feedback. I'm undecided on the s-cleat but will take a closer look as I've never worked with it.

Cheers!

[CruizinDux]

saw this post and decided to share my late september work. I completed the work, took a short 3 day down to Meramec CG, where I suffered a stroke. I'm just getting back to a normal life and and the trailer chores and figures it was time to post.


FYI



https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2661487