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Old 12-04-2013, 03:53 PM   #1
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Cool Replacing fresh water drain valve with aluminum

The last time I replaced the fresh water drain valve was on my 1996 21' Sovereign. I am now trying to replace the valve on my 2007 27' Classic. I removed the two screws and tried to pull the valve out of the metal housing. It does not want to come out . Does Airstream still attach it to a vinyl tube that is connected to the tank? I did not want to force it until I was sure of it's attachment.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:01 PM   #2
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I just did the one on my 34. Mine was/is attached with a piece of vinyl. I upgraded to a piece of braided reinforced nsf vinyl hose and good clamps. I went to ace hdwe and found a good brass petcock. I sprayed with silicone and works smoothly after 15k of towing this summer and fall.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:47 PM   #3
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On my 2008 27FB Safari the water drain was also attached with a piece of vinyl. I replaced the OEM vinyl valve with a water drain valve flange machined from aluminum, a brass elbow, and a brass ball valve. The aluminum drain valve flange was ordered from a resource on eBay: RV Fresh Water Drain Valve Flange

I bought the elbow and brass ball valve on Amazon. Here are pictures of the parts, the parts assembled, the hookup inside the belly pan, and the appearance on the outside. I'm going to fabricate a new guard, to protect the valve from road debris, from a piece of sheet metal.

Note I replaced the vinyl tubing with new tubing inside the belly pan.

The plastic OEM water drain has to be replaced every few years. Hopefully this fix will last as long as I own the trailer.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:40 PM   #4
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Drain Valve

I will soon have to replace mine. It's getting very hard to turn. On my 2004 Classic it is located behind the curb side front tire. Have to get under the RV to reach it unless I take the wheel off.

I've never changed one but from reading the above posts it sounds like the valve is connected to the tank with a short piece of tubing. Do you have to drop the belly pan to access the clamps in order to replace the tubing?
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:51 PM   #5
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Fresh Water Tank Valve Replacement 2008 Safari 27FB

My trailer had a small sheet metal access panel attached to the underside of the belly pan with a few sheet metal screws that allowed me to access the rear of the valve. I crawled under the Airstream to access it. Here are two pictures. One shows view is up into the belly pan, from below, with the sheet metal access panel removed. Slightly to the right of the middle of the picture you can see the new flange coming through the side of the belly pan and the clear vinyl tube attached. The second picture is me under the trailer performing the work. Working space is tight but manageable, particularly if you have a helper to hand materials and tools to you.

The worst thing about the replacement is taking the vinyl tubing off the pipe and rear side of the flange. Airstream must have installed the clamps from above, the clamp screw heads were pointing up so I had some difficulty unloosening them from below. Of course when they were reinstalled they now face the panel so any future repairs will be easy.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida 55 View Post
My trailer had a small sheet metal access panel attached to the underside of the belly pan with a few sheet metal screws that allowed me to access the rear of the valve. I crawled under the Airstream to access it. Here are two pictures. One shows view is up into the belly pan, from below, with the sheet metal access panel removed. Slightly to the right of the middle of the picture you can see the new flange coming through the side of the belly pan and the clear vinyl tube attached. The second picture is me under the trailer performing the work. Working space is tight but manageable, particularly if you have a helper to hand materials and tools to you.

The worst thing about the replacement is taking the vinyl tubing off the pipe and rear side of the flange. Airstream must have installed the clamps from above, the clamp screw heads were pointing up so I had some difficulty unloosening them from below. Of course when they were reinstalled they now face the panel so any future repairs will be easy.
I'll have to check mine closer. I don't remember sheet metal access panel.

Is your first picture showing new flange and clear tubing upside down?
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olie View Post
I'll have to check mine closer. I don't remember sheet metal access panel.

Is your first picture showing new flange and clear tubing upside down?
I'm shooting the picture from underneath the trailer so it is upside down. The shot is looking into the pan through the hole the access panel exposes. I took it laying on my back in the same position you see me in the second picture.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:46 PM   #8
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Is your trailer up on ramps? There is no way I could ever get under my triple axles.... they are just so low to the ground. Ill bet there are 5 inches between the galvanized pan and the ground on mine!
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:26 AM   #9
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Thanks for this, I ordered the flange from the eBay seller. Did you get a 3/8 or 1/2 inch version? Or is this one size fits all?
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:13 AM   #10
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AtomicNo13 - Trailer is not on ramps. It was a bit tight for me under the dual axle. Running the wheels up on ramps or Lego type blocks would have made a big difference. I definitely had to scoot quite a ways on my back to get to the location for the access door in the belly pan. Having a helper on the outside to pass tools and parts helped. Another way to approach the project would have been to take a wheel off to gain easier access from the side of the trailer.

Lara Me - One size fits both 3/8 and 1/2 inch from what I understand reading the eBay listing. I believe I used 3/8.
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:15 AM   #11
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Nice install Chuck. I would install a deflector, vertically, in front of the valve for a road debris deflector. Just an anal retentive suggestion.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WAT...-/170856910315

Here's one that has a valve already built in. I have one of these in my "kit" just waiting for my plastic one to break.

For those who experience sticking OEM ones, try a little food grade silicone spray. Mine has been free for 2 seasons after using the spray.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:50 AM   #12
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Olie, I have the same issue on my 04 classic. The handle just broke off and it is difficult to turn, so I have to replace it. Please let me know if you found the way to do it. thanks, Wolf146
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #13
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Wolf, I think your 04 is the same as my 07. You should find an inspection plate on the bottom of your fresh tank pan, right in line with the drain valve. This allows access to the bottom of the valve fitting hoses and clamps. What you can't get to there should be visible and accessible through an existing floor cutout under your wardrobe floor. Is pretty acrobatic to access, but doable.
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:40 PM   #14
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Thanks dznf0g. I'll check it out. Wolf
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