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Old 02-11-2008, 04:15 PM   #15
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I just serviced the dead Grover pump in the Flying Cloud and now that it's opened up, need to know what operating pressure I should set it to. The pump siezed, and so I took it apart. No oil in crankcase. Cleaned, lubed, and filled the case and now it's working.

Can someone advise me on the pressure setting when the pump should shut off?
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Old 02-11-2008, 04:50 PM   #16
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Bevman, I don't remember where I read it but I'm pretty sure it's 60 psi.
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Old 02-11-2008, 04:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevman
I just serviced the dead Grover pump in the Flying Cloud and now that it's opened up, need to know what operating pressure I should set it to. The pump siezed, and so I took it apart. No oil in crankcase. Cleaned, lubed, and filled the case and now it's working.

Can someone advise me on the pressure setting when the pump should shut off?
According to the WBCCI Vintage web site(The Vintage Airstream Club), it's 60psi.
That's listed under Trailer Manuals, 1960 Insructions for Pressure System.
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Old 03-22-2008, 09:57 AM   #18
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I think that I can close my participation in this thread, but I wanted to leave this last bit of repair information in case there are others seeking repair advice for the Grover pump.

In opening up the dead pump, I stupidly took off the motor housing. In the back of the housing are the brushes, attached to a piece of mica sheeting that is riveted to the back/bottom of the housing. When you pull off the housing, you pull the brushes off the armature, and it's virtually impossible to retract them again, while putting the cover back on. My solution, drill out the rivets and put little screws in their place (epoxied to hold them). Now, I put the "brushes board" on the armature and slid the cover back down. With some trial and error, I finally got the little screws to line up and come out the holes in the end of the housing. I put a couple of little nuts on, and then the motor was back in operation.

When I got that going, I realized that there was no oil in the crankcase (it's a tiny little piston that does the work). Oiled it with 3-in-1 and got all turning. Now, in testing it, I found that the pressure built, but the pump wouldn't shut off. I assume that it was the 50-year-old diaphragm in the pressure control box. I tried to find the company that made the control (LIC) but couldn't. I wrote to the tech person at Grover to ask for advice, and got nothing back from them. Next I called the tech line at Square-D. They make every kind of pump control you could want. I ordered the model that they recommended (9013fsg2j21) with the right cut-in/cut-out pressures. I had to drill out the rivets that held the old pressure control to the bracket on top of the Grover, to get it off. Next, I put a machine screw through one of the holes into the plate of the new Square-D. I hooked up the supply wires and the motor wires to the contacts, and the copper fitting to the diaphragm port, and I was off to the races. Just a little adjusting with the pressure settings, and now I could button up the goucho for a while.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:10 PM   #19
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Another compressor replacement option?

My Grover is starting to slow and smell like old oil when it runs. I fear it's not long for this world. So I'm going to give this Viair model 100C compressor a shot and add in a pressure switch. It's way less expensive than a new Grover, about $90 at anythingauto.com , and by the specs it will fit and may have more power. The trade-off is higher amp draw at 14 amps. The Grover only draws 6 amps. We'll see if I can make this work.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:31 AM   #20
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why use an accumulator

Some new Flo-Jet water pump's don't need an accumulator tank
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionplumber
Some new Flo-Jet water pump's don't need an accumulator tank
Most of the newer generation of RV (and marine) water pumps don't need accumulator tanks. The ShurFlo Extreme Series are my particular favorites. They come in 4.0 GPM an 5.7 GPM models, have variable speed motors and are very smooth and quiet. I replaced the stock pump on my CCD with a 4.0 model last year. ........EXCELENT!!!!!!
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:01 AM   #22
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If you have an old Grover air pump, I would replace it now, or carry a spare.

I don't trust any compressor that old not to fail, seize, or burn out right at the start of a two week vacation.

I'll fax the instruction manual if anyone needs one.
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Old 04-07-2008, 05:48 PM   #23
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The old Grover is out, the Viair compressor is in. It fit into the space without any problem. We reused the old Grover pressure switch and it continues to cut the compressor off around 50-55 psi and on again around 30 psi. The Viair makes a little more noise and does seem to get a bit hotter during a run than the Grover, but run time to achieve pressure is way less. So far, so good. This week I'll see how it performs in real life, i.e. the Cherry Blossom Rally.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:24 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevman View Post
. . . . . Next I called the tech line at Square-D. They make every kind of pump control you could want. I ordered the model that they recommended (9013fsg2j21) with the right cut-in/cut-out pressures. I had to drill out the rivets that held the old pressure control to the bracket on top of the Grover, to get it off. Next, I put a machine screw through one of the holes into the plate of the new Square-D. I hooked up the supply wires and the motor wires to the contacts, and the copper fitting to the diaphragm port, and I was off to the races. Just a little adjusting with the pressure settings, and now I could button up the goucho for a while.
Bevman, are you still happy with the Square-D switch set-up? Since I'm replacing my TW aluminum water tank with stainless I thought I'd go ahead and replace the old Grover switch too while I have more room to work.
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:16 PM   #25
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Realize it's been a while on this thread, but can any of you who have mentioned adding pressure switches to a replacement compressor provide a source for the switch? I'm also wondering if the Square-D switch worked since all the configurations of theirs that I can find are designed for 120/240 volt AC only. Any ideas for where I can find a 12 volt pressure switch that will operate in the 20-60psi range?
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:23 PM   #26
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The Square D pressure switches use a snap-action contact design that works fine for 12VDC. I believe that most of them carry a 24 volt DC rating as well as the various AC ratings, but even if they don't, they'll last a long time running a compressor of modest amperage.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:06 PM   #27
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Thanks Jammer. Any idea how the wiring would differ? Square D only has diagrams for wiring ac and their switches have four contact posts.
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