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Old 12-01-2013, 09:49 PM   #1
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Removing water tank on 28' 2010 Flying Cloud??

I have a leak on the water tank at the boss where the pump suction is connected in our 28 foot 2010 Flying Cloud. It appears that the boss has a hairline crack and I am likely going to have to replace the tank.

Have any of you removed a tank on a late model? Any experience and insights you could share would be appreciated. How big of a job is it? It doesn't appear to be that complicated but I have not done one yet.

I have yet to get underneath and really look it over in detail but my assumptions are that the job consists of:

1. Drain tank completely if it doesn't all leak out before I start and disconnect the PEX piping to pump suction.
2. Disconnect the two low point drains that penetrate the shield that the tank lays in.
3. Disconnect level sensor wiring
4. Jack up trailer and stabilize on 2x12 runners to get adequate work space underneath
5. Remove straps that hold shroud/tank in place and lower tank.
6. Inspect, repair, and replace tank if necessary
7. Reinstall tank and shroud (While I am at it, install better drain valve arrangement vs. plastic one that breaks)
8. Reconnect piping and test

By the way, I have got to find out where to get a new tank if that is required. I would like to use a different supplier than the one that sold Airstream the one that's in there. The installation of the bosses looks like it was "Amateur Night" at the supplier when this one was put together.

Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:12 AM   #2
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remove/replace fresh water tank

Al: Although I have never removed or replaced a fresh water tank, I went to Daphne and spent last night in the Holiday Inn Express........so with those qualifications I am prepared journey across the street to assist you.....and I have beer.
Tom
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:11 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Alumitater View Post
Al: Although I have never removed or replaced a fresh water tank, I went to Daphne and spent last night in the Holiday Inn Express........so with those qualifications I am prepared journey across the street to assist you.....and I have beer.
Tom
Okay Brother M, get ready cause we are going under the trailer together. Let me get the rascal jacked up so a big boy like me can get under there and we'll get to dismantling the leaker.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:44 PM   #4
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Hmmm, an engineer and a retired person with beer tackling a never before done job. By the time Al gets through thinking through every step, Tom will have imbibed a lot of beer. Might be faster and safer to drive to JC and leave Tom at home. Random observations.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:03 PM   #5
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Hmmm, an engineer and a retired person with beer tackling a never before done job.
Sounds like a recipe for success to me! We engineers make everything more complicated than they need to be, but beer makes everything easier, so it all balances out.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:28 PM   #6
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Wish I was there to help you guys with the "project"!

Sounds like it could be a lot of fun.

Perhaps if there's a "rework" after Canopener I can assist.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:43 PM   #7
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Standing by ready and unable

Brother Al:
Flash the signal in the sky and I will come running.....but not so fast as to agitate the beer!
Tom
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:26 PM   #8
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Okay Tom, but should we wait until after Canopener. Chuck will be here to join in vs. enjoying looking around the area and wanting to visit. We can upgrade from beer to borrowed fine wheated bourbon lifted from Greg when he's relaxed from same at the Canopener. And we can recruit Protagonist to come over and cook us some fine NO cuisine and give moral support. Drinking and eating is what we do best anyway.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:27 PM   #9
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Can't you guys fix it with duct tape and just drink beer? Hairline crack ain't no big thing.
It should hold until the Canopener where we could do it properly with the recipe in the morning and margaritas in the afternoon.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:31 PM   #10
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Can't you guys fix it with duct tape and just drink beer? Hairline crack ain't no big thing.
It should hold until the Canopener where we could do it properly with the recipe in the morning and margaritas in the afternoon.
Agreed Joe, then we hit Greg's cabinet that evening!
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:29 PM   #11
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Okay - pulled tank - both pump suction and drain lines were fractured at the tank bosses and had failed. I expected to find a poorly manufactured tank when I pulled it out but it was a clear installation error by AS factory. I sent photos and a report to Airstream and yes, you guessed right, it has been totally unacknowledged by them. By the way, I wasn't expecting anything other than "yes, we got it and thanks for letting us know". Their interesting lack of response also indicates their amateurish lack of public and customer relations knowhow. A fresh out of school schoolboy or schoolgirl understands basic PR practice and principles of acknowledgment!

When I get the job completed I will document the repair on the Forum for others who may have to do the job. I was surprised that I had very little success in finding more specific information and help here but many thanks to ROBERTSUNRUS for his post and insights on the topic (the only helpful one I could find).
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #12
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I have the advantage of having a tank fabricator just down the road, but beyond that, anyplace that spin welds fitting on should be able to spin weld new fitting in place for you, after cutting the old ones off. He uses a router with an adapter that mates up to the fitting and the heat from the friction just melts them on. I had three fitting ea put on three tanks and he charged me 15 dollars.

Just something to check out in your area.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:03 PM   #13
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Sorry chime in late but I dropped the FW tank in mine a couple months ago to replace the drain line valves and paint the frame with had surface rust on it.
Couple observations:
Your pump suction Boss should have a small strainer in it.
On the bottom of the tank you may have a 2" drain about 1/3 of the way away from the plumbing connections. It protrudes such that it tilts the tank so it can't be fully drained, (plus holds a couple of precious gallons) I cut a hole in the pan, replaced the insulation so now I can get under and unscrew the drain plug....good for flushing as well.
I put inline pex valves to the drain only accessible (barely) from the interior of the AS....did'ent like those critical valves exposed to flying rocks/freezing etc.
I had my stabilizer jacks off for strip and powder coating so I inverted them under the tank to lower and raise in to position....I was doing it solo so had to come up with something.
Good luck and enjoy the brewsky's
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I have the advantage of having a tank fabricator just down the road, but beyond that, anyplace that spin welds fitting on should be able to spin weld new fitting in place for you, after cutting the old ones off. He uses a router with an adapter that mates up to the fitting and the heat from the friction just melts them on. I had three fitting ea put on three tanks and he charged me 15 dollars.

Just something to check out in your area.
Aerowood, thanks. I wasn't able to find a local tank expert and simply ordered a new one through our local AS dealer in Gulfport (Foley RV and really good folks). The new tank arrived in four days delivered to the door shipped from AS! I will likely put the old one in storage and see if I can get it repaired and keep it for a spare or for friends who may face a similar issue.
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