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Old 03-03-2014, 08:15 PM   #1
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2013 23' FB International
2013 25' Flying Cloud
In the Rockies, 6700' , Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 47
Question Removing outside shower

Our trailer lives in the Colorado mountains and I use it almost monthly. I winterize after each use but am concerned about the nights I am using it in subzero temps. It seems to me that the outside shower is a weak point in the system with respects to resisting freezing. I took the shower box out and am glad I did. I will remove the fixture and fill the box with foam to improve the insulation in that area. My problem is how to best cap the supply lines that I unscrewed from the back of the fixture. The trailer is a 2013 Flying Cloud and I know nothing about the supply lines. I have read the threads and assume this to have PEX (red and white lines) but I need to know the best way to seal off these lines. Should I find a fitting to thread into the existing couplers or cut them and attach some different plug? I would appreciate any advice on the subject. Does anyone know the size of these lines?

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Old 03-03-2014, 09:06 PM   #2
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Stevens Point , Wisconsin
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You can get a brass plug that will crimp to the PEX tubing.
I thing the two most common sizes are 1/2 and 3/4 inch.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:55 PM   #3
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1995 34' Excella
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No need to cut the Pex line. Buy two 1/2" threaded brass plugs and screw them into the fittings. Use teflon tape to seal the threads.

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Old 03-03-2014, 11:40 PM   #4
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I fulltime in a supposedly mild climate - says she shivering with an outside temp of 26F during the 4th snowstorm of the winter. I don't normally winterize, but the basic principle of winterization is to blow the water out of the pipes. Dry pipes don't burst period.

RV antifreeze is normally NOT added to the water heater because it takes too much and isn't needed once the tank is drained.

The inside pipes and traps are treated because there can be lingering drops of water in the system and to keep the seals functional. Of course you have to remove the water filter(s) in the faucets so they can be re-used the next season.

The outside shower isn't the low place in the system so once drained there shouldn't be enough water left to cause any harm especially if you open those faucets while draining the system - so that air is sucked into the shower pipes. I'd think that the shower HOSE (and for that matter the inside shower hose) could be damaged by filling them with antifreeze) so removing the hoses, then filling the pipes right to the fixtures should do the trick.

I appreciate that Colorado is a LOT colder than Virginia - so removing the outside shower might be a way to go. Just seems like a lot of work to me. Good winter whatever you choose.

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Old 03-05-2014, 08:04 AM   #5
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2013 25' Flying Cloud
In the Rockies, 6700' , Colorado
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Thank you for the replies

Thanks to all of you for the replies. I have indeed capped the fittings with 1/2 brass plugs. Mission accomplished. The concern was not over the fact that the outside shower was a concern during winterization, but rather during the winter usage with water in the system. I have removed the fixture and filled the shower box with insulation. Interestingly enough, the wheel wells have no insulation and are only a few inches below the shower box. Probably just made myself feel better with no real logical reason! However, when I sleep in sub-zero temps, I open the cabinet doors and use the furnace for heat. So maybe every little bit of insulation I add is of some value.

Just as a side note, I don't use anti-freeze in my system at all. For two winters now, I have successfully blown out my lines by running air through the pipes for about two hours at 30PSI but with a lot of volume. (all faucets open) Because I use the trailer so much, I end up winterizing at least 6 to 8 times per year and really don't want to deal with the antifreeze. Between usages, I often see sub-zero temps and so far, have had no problems. I do have to run the pump off and on during the line blowing process to ensure that it is emptied of water as well. I usually pause the process several times and even repeat the process as necessary to get nothing but air coming out of the lines. (I hold my hand in front of every faucet to check to see if there is any moisture in the escaping air. I do the same at the low point valves on the bottom of the trailer.) I'm not recommending this to others because I believe this works well, partially due to the very dry climate here in the mountains.

Thanks again to all of you and safe travels.
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:47 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Minipad View Post
Just as a side note, I don't use anti-freeze in my system at all.
You might still need SOME antifreeze, unless you also blow out your sink P-traps and other points in the drain system that trap water.

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