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Old 01-13-2009, 06:29 PM   #1
AnEyeForTexas
 
1962 26' Overlander
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Pump in '62 Overlander ... water or air?

There's a pump under the sink of my 63 Overlander. The water doesn't run when I'm disconnected from public water. I've replaced the 12v battery system, and current is available everywhere I've tested.

So ... what does it pump? The lines look to small for water, so I'm guessing air. If air, what activates it. closing the circuit (previously ripped apart) does nothing.

I'll happily provide a picture for anyone who wants it, or I can upload it here, but I didn't know what category to put it under.

I sure would like to have running water. I'd like to heat it too, but that's another question.

TIA
Gary Nored

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Old 01-13-2009, 07:00 PM   #2
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Gnored,
You can attach pictures right to your message and thread. After composing the message and before clicking on the submit button, click on the "paper clip" tool bar button at the top of the message block, navigate to your picture file via the "Browse" button in the window that pops up, slect your picture file, click the "Upload" button and wait for your picture to uplaod and then close the window. When you submit your message or new thread your picture attachment will appear in the thread. Nothing to it really .
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:27 PM   #3
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Pump in 62 Overlander ... water or air?

Greetings Gary!

I can't say with a high degree of certainty, but it sounds like you may have a demand system rather than "pressure" system. With the pressure system, you should have some water flow from "captive" air trapped in the tank while filling -- the coach that I had with a pressure system didn't even have an auxiliary pump. Another pointer would be the material from which the water storage tank is constructed -- metal typically indicates a "pressure" system while a plastic/acrylic tank is almost certainly a demand pump system.

In either case, if the pump is original, there should be a transformer between the pump and the electric system as well as switch. The switch allows you to choose shore power (transformer needed) and battery (direct connection to battery). The original pump if demand system would have been PAR (Peters and Russell) or Grover (if a pressurized system).

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:09 AM   #4
AnEyeForTexas
 
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Thanks so much for the hint about the pictures. I was about to ask the admin about that.

The water tank in my Overlander is a substantial, metal one. There is a pressure relief? valve with a tire inflation stem next to the garden hose inlet. The pump is, indeed, located next to an
electrical box of some sort. I was going to ask about that next.

Anyway, here are pictures of both these devices.

Thanks for everybody's help. Hardly anything in this trailer works, but it's gotta, because I've already moved in. Brings new meaning to the word "camping "


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Old 01-14-2009, 09:25 AM   #5
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Air

Hi Gary, Thats an air pump. Can you show a picture of where the copper pipe goes in the tank?
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:43 AM   #6
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Your pump appears to be an air pump. As in our 62 the pump basically fills the large water tank with air which forces the water out of the tank and through the water system. If you connect your trailer to city water, you must fill the water tank as it is all one system. The water system will get pressure from the city connection when you are using city water.

The pump should have a pressure switch to shut the pump off once operating pressure is achieved, in our trailer I believe that is around 80-90psi. Additionally, you should have a wall switch which operates the circuit for the pump. Ours looks just like the rest of the light switches and is located just to the left of the kitchen sink.

From you photo it appears that your pump is disconnected from the circuit. you should see some wires protruding from the bulkhead near the pump, they may be a bit higher than the pump. Your photo shows one end of a fuseholder connected to a wire. There would have been another piece of the fuseholder connected to the hot wire on your pump with the other pump wire connected to the trailer chassis for ground. The large metal box, I believe houses the transformer for the furnace. Our trailers have separate systems for 12VDC and 115VAC all of the 12V items have a transformer to convert 115 when on shore power except for the water pump which only works on 12vdc and is directly connected to the battery. I was able to test ours prior to finding a battery by connecting a battery charger to the battery leads and testing out the 12v items.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:56 AM   #7
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Water Pump

Hi Gary,

I happen to have a picture of our set up all of this is located under the kitchen sink. We have since replaced the pump in the photo with the correct Grover Pump and it works great. You will notice that the hot wire coming from the bulkhead is orange on our trailer. Additionally, we replaced the old bakelite fuseholder with a new automotive flat fuse and holder.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:41 PM   #8
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Yep, it's Air

Thanks for all the replies. The thing definitely works on compressed air. I found a stem next to the water inlet that looks just like a tire stem. So I attached a compressor and pressurized the tanks. Viola! Water flowed, esp. in the shower which I had forgotten to check, so the air mattresses got a nice wash.

All the fittings on the exterior leak too much to hold the pressure long, so I guess that's going to have to be fixed.

I checked the wire leading from the bulkhead and there's nothing on it. I even tried connecting an external battery to the other end, but nothing. So I'm guessing the pressure control gizmo must be disfunctional.

Can you get replacement's for this thing?

Gary
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:50 PM   #9
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Gary did you check the wire with a meter to see if you have 12v? you may also want to check the inline fuses that should be on the battery hot leg.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:51 PM   #10
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How has the metal tank held up? I haven't looked in ours yet. I'd like to reuse it, but only if its internally in good condition. Not sure if we'll leave it a pressure system or convert to a pump system or not, will probably have a lot to do with how good the pump is.
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Old 01-16-2009, 07:30 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by goransons View Post
How has the metal tank held up? I haven't looked in ours yet. I'd like to reuse it, but only if its internally in good condition. Not sure if we'll leave it a pressure system or convert to a pump system or not, will probably have a lot to do with how good the pump is.
Our galvanized tank is in good condition and works just fine for our needs, our biggest issue was finding the correct air pump (Grover) which we finally did last summer, one finally showed up on ebay that is like new and works great. If the pump fails we will likely convert over to an on demand system. The tank can be used for that configuration, but I understand a few mods need to be made in order to do so.
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:38 AM   #12
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There is no 12 volts on the formerly-fused line leading to the top, but providing 12 volts from an auxiliary battery doesn't seem to do anything.

The tanks "look" to be in good shape. I'll take a picture and post it later today.

Thanks for the heads up about the Grover pump. I may have to start looking ... sigh ...
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:57 AM   #13
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I think the reason Airstream abandoned the air pressure system is that the whole system is always pressurized. If there is a leak of any sort while you are on the road or out of the trailer, the continuous pressure in the tank pumps the whole contents of your tank onto the floor of the trailer. It is not pretty. The on demand pump only pumps water out of the leak when the pump runs. You can use the switch that turns on the air pump to power the replacement pump. When you are parked you can turn the pump on and get immediate water. If you have a water leak you will hear the water pump run when you do not have a valve open. Then you immediately know you have a problem. If you have the air pressurized system, and travel with the tank unpressurized, it takes quite a while for the air pump to give you some water. We replaced our air pump with a Flotech for about $60. It works much better than the air compressor. A replacement Grove went for over $100 recently on E-bay.
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:00 AM   #14
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There is no 12 volts on the formerly-fused line leading to the top, but providing 12 volts from an auxiliary battery doesn't seem to do anything.

The tanks "look" to be in good shape. I'll take a picture and post it later today.

Thanks for the heads up about the Grover pump. I may have to start looking ... sigh ...
It is possible that the pressure switch on the pump is stuck in the open position which would not allow the pump to operate. You may be able to bypass the switch just long enough to check the operation of the pump motor. If you read continuity across the motor leads you should get some kind of reading if it shows as an open circuit the switch is the likely culprit.
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