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Old 04-06-2008, 09:08 AM   #15
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Crusty,

This may not apply to you since you live in the tropics. Several years ago on our first trip of the season my wife got out out of bed and complained about a wet carpet. We blotted the water and kept an eye on things. The culprit was a crack in the plastic Sureflo pressure regulator (not sure being plastic had anything to do with it). Emergency repair consisted of disconnecting the inside pipe from the regulator and installing a pipe plug in the fitting. Of course, that meant no city water hook-up but when I got to our destination I ordered a new regulator and all was well. I think I had done a poor job of winterizing and left enough water in the regulator that caused the break when cold weather hit. Since then I've been very careful to do the proper procedure at the rear to ensure that all water is out of the regulator (the manual covers this, I just hadn't paid attention to what it said--a common male brain defect).

Gene
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:19 AM   #16
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Another POS plastic fitting failed and started leaking for no apparent reason. In the storage compartment underneath the refrigerator, the cold water line which runs through there has several copper ells in it and one plastic ell - guess which one split out of the clear blue and soaked the floor, pad and carpet (in that order) and finally appeared at the surface of the carpet in the hall, where I first became aware of it. I removed all of the carpet, pad and plastic overcover in that storage area and replaced the $.09 ell with a QestPex compression ell and I'm back in business.

I think I need to get serious about ripping out all of the low bid type plumbing in my trailer and replacing it all with quality components. I'm also going to rip out the carpet and pad in all areas where there are plumbing runs and replace with vinyl flooring and throw rugs, so that I can see it as soon as a leak develops. I wish that I could saturate all of my floor with CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) too.
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:43 PM   #17
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I'm jumping in here kinda late, but...

I soldered up two copper manifolds with 1/4 turn ball valves for hot and cold water (located under the bathroom sink). All lines from the manifolds to the fixtures are braided stainless steel supply lines from Lowes. I de-winterized and used the trailer in mid-April - plenty of pressure with either the on-board pump or city water. If those puppies burst, I've got a MUCH bigger problem...

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Old 04-29-2008, 02:57 PM   #18
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I was about to ask if anyone had set up a manifold system. Nicely done!
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Old 05-06-2008, 03:33 PM   #19
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pex here as well

I am starting my re-hab of our new/old Argosy, and have decided to go with PEX as well. Seems to have all the virtues of flexability and versitility. Red for hot blue for cold and shark-bite junctions seems to be the best way to go for the dollars invested.

Fotochop, can you give me the part number of that air pop-rivet gun from Harbor Freight? I can't find it on there website? Thanks in advance.

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Old 05-06-2008, 07:52 PM   #20
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Plastic Washer Caused Similar Problems

Woke up this past weekend to my water heater going on and off about every three minutes. I thought it was a little peculiar and went outside to investigate. When I opened the storage compartment I was greeted by a spraying wet mess!!! A washer on one of those POS plastic fittings had deteriorated and let go. I guess it could be expected in a 20+ year old trailer, but I was still mad. I scrounged around the campground until I found a washer that would fit. Now I will add a few of these washers to my repair kit for just such an occasion.

After ripping out the thick black felt like compartment liner I found another design flaw. Where the city water line enters the trailer it runs along the wall of the trailer for about four feet. What happens when a cold surface meets warm moist air??? CONDENSATION!!! I stuck my finger right through the floor. Luckily the affected area is only about the size of a golf ball. So now I guess I will be using rot doc or some other wood hardening product. Plus I am going to put insulation wrap on that length of pipe and fabricate some kind of pan to put under the pipe to catch any condensation.

The piping in my '06 is PEX and I love it. The piping in the '87 is a grey plastic. I don't think it is PEX or PVC. Does anybody out there know what they used in the '80's era trailers?
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
The piping in my '06 is PEX and I love it. The piping in the '87 is a grey plastic. I don't think it is PEX or PVC. Does anybody out there know what they used in the '80's era trailers?
Could it be Polybutylene?
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:54 AM   #22
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That's The Stuff

Ricahrd,
Thanks, Polybutylene is definitelt what I have in the '87. One more mystery solved.
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:06 AM   #23
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Thanks all for all your info. We located a hairline crack in our main line.
Material to be used ...thanks to you...will help. Thanks again, Aria
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:48 AM   #24
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Isn't there a class action law suit filed for any polybutylene installations?
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:21 PM   #25
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Polybutylene Plumbing and Pipe Replacement-Polybutylene Lawsuit and Class Action Settlement Information
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfowler
I'm jumping in here kinda late, but...

I soldered up two copper manifolds with 1/4 turn ball valves for hot and cold water (located under the bathroom sink). All lines from the manifolds to the fixtures are braided stainless steel supply lines from Lowes. I de-winterized and used the trailer in mid-April - plenty of pressure with either the on-board pump or city water. If those puppies burst, I've got a MUCH bigger problem...

Pardon my ignorance, but what does the manifold do?
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
Pardon my ignorance, but what does the manifold do?
Quick answer:

Plumbing Manifolds
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameront120
Quick answer:

Plumbing Manifolds
Thanks, Cameron. Wow, how cool! It's like Central Command for water supply (hot & cold) to all fixtures.

So is the point as it concerns TTs to centralize all the shutoffs for seasonal shutdowns and emergency use?

Looks like a very organized way to go.

I would imagine that PEX is cheaper and safer to install since it doesn't require a torch. How do the materials costs compare to copper?
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