I too replaced all the plumbing in our Overlander with Pex. The 1/2" copper was in questionable condition so out it came. The 1/2" Pex cost about $20 for a 100 ft. roll which was plenty to replumb the whole trailer. I like the color coded you used! I only found it in white, so it all looks the same. I opted for the Quest pex fittings which basically screw together with a big adjustable wrench and channel locks. I'd guess the cost for all the fittings (most around $5 each) would probably equal that of a crimping tool and crimps. I did like the idea of being able to fix a leak on the road with nothing but basic hand tools, so I keep the big wrench and some extra fittings and a few feet of pipe in the trailer. The pex is supposed to withstand freeze/thaw cycles better than copper and is much lighter and was easily installed, especially compared to copper. IMO Pex IS the way to go! Great thread! --dave
The last function is the drain. You can see in the photo that there is a stop valve in the blue line which connects to the single drain pipe. This pipe also provides the fresh tank drain and the pressure relief drain. The pressure relief valve will screw into the same fitting where the pressure guage is now (you can see it sitting on top of the pressure guage).
I tested the pressure rise due to water heating; don't forget that I have an accumulator, which helps buffer any water expansion. With the system at the nominal pump pressure of 45 psi and water around 65 degrees, I turned the water heater on and set the temperature at the mid-point. System pressure rose to 65 psi when the heater turned off. I then set the temperature at max. The pressure rose to 90 psi. PEX can handle 400 psi, but I don't want the system to exceed 100 under any circumstances. 90 psi is too close, so I think I will install the pressure relief valve. If it functions, it only drains a couple of ounces to relieve pressure due to water expansion.
Done! But there's lots more to do on the furnishings and axles!
Fantastic install. . .super clean. I didn't read everything yet, just looked at pictures mostly. Do you have a tally of total cost? Do you know how much time you spent on this? Love the color coded lines.
This was a 2-day job that I managed to stretch into 2 weeks. I actually bought all the parts to do it in copper and changed my mind just in time. Then deciding on what type of fittings, learning about tools, waiting for some parts to come by UPS from an internet plumbing site, etc. The biggest design challenge was the external valve for keeping the plumbing dry if I wanted to get water to the toilet/black tank flush line--that probably took me three days of ruminating all the possibilities. And I bought lots of spare fittings and two 100-ft rolls of PEX (I've got another AS remodel on the horizon).
Bottom line, the real work was about 2 days and the cost (not including pumps, regulators, new faucet, etc--just the plumbing) was between $50 and $60.
One unexpected result is that the pump is very loud as it approaches the cut-off pressure. This is a surprise, since it has its own rubber isolators. It may have something to do with the way I mounted it on its own panel which may be acting like a drum. More investigation required...
Just wondering why you used so many 90's instead of just letting the tubing bend on it's own.
How tight a radius can this tubing make?
If you buy the coils, it can turn on an amazingly tight radius - four times it's diameter, if I recall (in the direction of the bend, of course). That means 1/2" Pex can turn on a 2" radius.
I just re-plumbed my International and used PEX with Sea tech push fittings and they work great and you don't need any specialty tools to put it together . Dancepancha
Hi Lipets--All of the repair in my A/S has been with reinforced vinyl tubing. Where the original copper is OK, I just slide it over the copper and fasten with stainless steel clamps. I think it is a lot easier to work with than PEX, with fewer fittings. Max water pressure is 40psi, and I have had no problem with leaks in 18-years.--Frank S
Bad news. On first test of the system, the valve to the water heater leaks! Not onto the floor, but it doesn't do its job. Crap, bad place (tight) to have to remove and replace. If you have any way to test your valves before putting them in, I highly recommend it. This is a ball valve, which are usually very reliable, but not this time. I'd guess I've experienced a 7-10% leakage of this type in all types that I've purchased, so checking them is a good idea if you can figure out a fixture that will allow it.
...continued...
Correction. The valve is OK. What was happening was the 30-year old sink fixture was leaking internally, allowing flow from the cold to the hot side, then back down the hot line into the water heater. Not a problem if the hot side is filled, but definitely a problem for cold weather boondocking if you want to keep the water heater dry. Fixture is being replaced, along with the entire sink area.
Boy that is some network of pipes and wires....I would not want to have plastic pipes in a freeze... one time and they snap like twigs afterwords.
Copper all the way and insulation is need be.
Our '63 GlobeT does not have all that stuff inside... My biggest challenge is a water pump to use the supply in the old iron water tank at the front of the cabin. It came with a neat little air pump to build up air preassure when in use. I will convert it to a water pump service.
I liked the one the Zeppilinium used. We do not plan to do boondocking or selfcontained. This Airstream will be for travel across country using RV Parks all the way. I hate going to Motels...
Boy that is some network of pipes and wires....I would not want to have plastic pipes in a freeze... one time and they snap like twigs afterwords.
Copper all the way and insulation is need be.
Our '63 GlobeT does not have all that stuff inside... My biggest challenge is a water pump to use the supply in the old iron water tank at the front of the cabin. It came with a neat little air pump to build up air preassure when in use. I will convert it to a water pump service.
I liked the one the Zeppilinium used. We do not plan to do boondocking or selfcontained. This Airstream will be for travel across country using RV Parks all the way. I hate going to Motels...
Pex will not get brittle after freezing,I have a house in Ohio,when I am ready to come back south,I shut off water ,open main drain,drain water heater,and open faucets.Nothing has burst in 3 years and the pipes are not pitched. Also antifreeze in traps.That was the sole purpose of the pex,to not have to mess with blowing out lines.Also both of my airstreams are plumbed with pex.
Someone was worried about pressure,when we install pex we test @150#
just to make sure. Dave The Plumber
Easyride,
The work we are doing now is replacing pex. The former owner used pex through out. It is kinda like using pvcp pipe to me. Do any RV manufacturers use Pex? Our Globe Trotter is so small it is easy for me to say copper all the way.... and now with copper so expensive it's pricey.
Believe me I wish I could use the Pex for simplicity's sake too.
Just two different camps on the subject. Your the pro not me.
The very best to you and thanks for all your shared help on everything.
Easyride,
The work we are doing now is replacing pex. The former owner used pex through out. It is kinda like using pvcp pipe to me. Do any RV manufacturers use Pex? Our Globe Trotter is so small it is easy for me to say copper all the way.... and now with copper so expensive it's pricey.
Believe me I wish I could use the Pex for simplicity's sake too.
Just two different camps on the subject. Your the pro not me.
The very best to you and thanks for all your shared help on everything.
Most if not all new trailers built today are built with PEX. What color is the pipe that is currently in your trailer, if it is solid gray and flexible it is most likely Polybutylene not PEX. It will freeze and crack. CPVC is usually hard and white (but I have seen some colored stuff) PEX with brass crimped fittings is the way to go. Copper is good stuff, but with the amount of vibration and the danger of freezing in an RV it isn't the best choice anymore. My 1975 is fully plumbed with copper, it also has several repaired areas. All of it is coming out and being replaced with PEX. Houses are static and in some parts of the country freezing is less of an issue. My parents house still has some of the original copper plumbing going strong after 70+ years.
Aaron
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