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Old 01-23-2011, 08:57 AM   #1
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Pex for fresh tank outlet

I'm having trouble finding a fitting for the fresh water tank outlet (right side of picture).

I'm going to plumb the trailer with Pex and assume that I need an outlet with a Pex type (ringed) male connection.

All of the Pex connection things that I find like this (1/2) have a much larger side that screws into the tank. The 1/2 and 3/8 fresh water tank outlets both have the same size end that screws into the tank.

It looks like the screw in end is 3/8 and the outlet side is 1/2 for the fresh water outlet thing.

This needs to be a 1/2" Pex outlet but I can't find one with a 3/8" end that screws into the tank.

Help!?
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:41 AM   #2
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Get a adapter or reducer that goes from 3/8 to 1/2. Ace hardware, lowes, home depot. I have not found a 1/2 pex with a 3/8 M or F thread.










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Old 01-23-2011, 09:44 AM   #3
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Hello DanielB

The fittings that you are showing in the picture appear to be barbed fittings. Barbed fittings are intended to be used with hose or a softer flexible pipe, not with pex. The pex that I used in my AS was only available in 3/8" or 1/2". If I am understanding your problem correctly, you need to start with a 3/8" plastic nipple(double male) in the outlet of the tank, then you will be able to use available pex fittings that thread onto that nipple.
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:44 AM   #4
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I'd use a 3/8 PVC fitting out of the tank with a short piece of 3/8 PVC ,then connect to the PEX with a Sharkbite type connection. All kinds of ways to do this other than crimp connections that will work very well and are available at any good hardware place. Happy plumbing.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #5
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You can use barb fittings with hose clamps on the inlet (low pressure) side of the pump. On the outlet side of the pump then use the 1/2" pex with the copper crimp rings.

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Old 01-23-2011, 12:12 PM   #6
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I went to Lowes and was able to find a reducer.
The leftmost piece is a 1/2 Pex fitting.
The center piece is a non-pex 1/2 to 3/8 reducer.
The rightmost piece is the water tank outlet valve.

I was so excited I neglected to get the one last necessary piece.. a 3/8 sleeve.. one end to screw in where the outlet valve is screwed in in the picture and the other end to screw into the tank.

Stuff like this just drives me nuts.
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Old 01-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #7
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I installed a new fresh tank last summer. I used a brass 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor into the tank and a pex/1/2 into the brass. The barb fitting in the pic is not for pex. If you are going to use flex tubing from the barbed fitting to your water pump then it would work fine, but pex may leak if you use the barb fitting.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:10 PM   #8
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The barb fitting is going away. It is just there to verify the 3/8. Where the barb fitting is is where the assembly will screw into the water tank.
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Old 01-23-2011, 03:30 PM   #9
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Water Tank Access

Daniel here are a couple of pics of the access hole in my floor for the fresh water tank.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:13 PM   #10
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Thanks Chris. Is the outlet pipe from the tank going to come up through the floor through this opening?
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:54 PM   #11
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Daniel yes all the plumbing will enter the trailer from this point. The fill hose from the fresh water fill port comes down through here as does the two air vent lines to the fill port. That is what the two elbows you can see in the pics are for. The supply line from the fresh tank to the water pump and the supply line from the city water also comes up through here.
You can see two holes in the plywood below the tank, they are for the tank drain and low point system drain lines. I used the original plywood and haven't drilled through the new belly pan material yet.
BTW FYI I am redsigning my city water supply lines and will not be using the same path. The original travels forward roadside and then under the floor and across to curbside at the fresh tank. I am going to go around the rear of the trailer under the beds and nighttable and travel forward curbside and eliminate the under the floor section completely. It was always a problem point for me while full timing in the winter. The line always froze there due to the proximity to the belly vent for the fridge.
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #12
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Interesting idea about rerouting.
I thought the air vents were overflow vents too. I thought that they would just have hoses on them that would run directly down to the outside.
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #13
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Interesting idea about rerouting.
I thought the air vents were overflow vents too. I thought that they would just have hoses on them that would run directly down to the outside.
If you look at the fill port there is a small 1/4" connection point for the overfill/ air vent line. While I'm getting a pic of the reel area I'll get a pic of lines for this.
BRB in 5 mins.
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