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Old 05-06-2008, 07:44 AM   #29
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1977 Argosy 24
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Originally Posted by lewster
Be sure that they are fully inserted, or they will leak! I have even used them on copper to cpvc and copper to pex connections and they still don't leak!
As per Lew's comment; the pipe must be fully seated. I have re-plumbed our 34 & 24 footers and the only leaks were from not having the pipe fully engaged with the connector. I make a pencil mark on the pipe as a visual indicator of how far the pipe has entered the connector. When in a tight spot and it is difficult to press the parts together this helps to "see" that a good connection is made.

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Old 05-06-2008, 07:57 AM   #30
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I used pex/seatech fittings in my house last fall for a transition from my house's copper plumbing to my new exterior remote camper hookup. (ran water and electric service out to my trailer's parking spot). I had no problem with the fittings leaking, but the inline ball valve (for shutting off/winterizing the system) wouldn't shut off the water. Seems like that wasn't just a fluke.
Anyway, instead of replacing it with a $20 shark-bite ball valve, I got a $3 shark-bite end-plug. Since these fittings come apart as easily as they go together, (can't do that w/ crimped or soldered copper fittings!) I don't really "need" the valve there. I just disconnect the branch, pop the plug on there...and done. Oh, sure, I have to shut off the house water for 30 seconds to do this.

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Old 05-06-2008, 09:16 AM   #31
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I heard my name mentioned... I will be honest I had a bad pex experience. I found that if the pipe is under tension or pressure, the seatech/wyatts fittings leak. The pipe must go in straight to the fitting. The cut must be very straight too. Buy a cutting tool and keep it square to the pipe at all times. The sharkbite fitting work very well and are worth the extra money over the seatech.
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I used a manifold and seperate runs to each fixture. I think this was a big waste of time and money. When I do my next project, I will stick with copper. It worked for Wally and it should have been my choice. The real reason we all use this plastic pipe is due to our inability to winterize properly and it is faster. I am just not convinced it is worth the extra cost... 600X more expensive than copper....
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:27 AM   #32
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Wow, not a cheery thread for those of us looking at PEX. I'll keep reading, but will have these experiences in mind as I begin testing the water system for weak spots in the Globe.
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Old 05-06-2008, 12:06 PM   #33
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Sorry to hear that some of you have had these problems with the PEX/Sea-Tech Combination. Like I have said before, I use them in a professional environment, and I have had 'zero' problems with them.

Yes, they must installed anything else and yes, they must be properly aligned and not under any angular strain......but that's why they make strain-relief devices and clamps.

IMHO, Still the quickest and best solution to water feed problems and also remember, copper is a metal and the constant bouncing of the trailer will work harden the metal an eventually cause it to fatigue................just something else to think about!
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
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Old 05-06-2008, 12:29 PM   #34
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I have just finished replacing all of my water lines with PVC and CPVC. I mainly went this route because I had plenty of fittings and pipe left over from a home project. After reading through most of the other forums, I though I was the only one to use PVC/CPVC. I tested my lines for 2 days with approximately 65 PSI with no leaks. Yesterday I bought some holding straps to dampen any vibration when transporting. Hope this works out with some road mileage! Anyone out there having success with PVC/CPVC over time?
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:53 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by bake315
I decided to try some of those this weekend. I needed a transition from 3/4" CPVC to 1/2" PEX in my home. I was skeptical but figured it was easy to go another route if needed, since I was only dealing with 2 couplings in this case. It was mud simple to connect them, and no leaks so far. They are a bit on the pricey side, but seem very well constructed. I haven't heard of anyone using them in an environment like an RV, which is obviously subject to a lot of jostling and vibration, so please keep us posted on how it all turns out.
I used Sharkbite fittings on my Globetrotter and used it for several months before selling it. I had no issues with it once I got over the initial price. They transition well from copper, and they are re-usable if you need to replace a section of tube for whatever reason. Made of brass with plastic seals.
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:10 PM   #36
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Crispyboy, Sorry about that. I owned a 1979 and now a 1990. Both came from the factory with the grey polybutylene water supply tubing. I assume your 1981 also did. The polybutylene tubing has different wall thickness than PEX. I have used PEX in places in my 1990 and where I connected PEX to the grey poly I had to use brass connectors of different size one end for Buty and another for PEX. I used crimp rings and they also are different, brass color for one type and black color for the other. I've never used the sealand connectors or Flair-it but, but could it be possible you have the grey tubing and it's not compatible size wise with sealand on the polybutylene end? Just a thought. Charlie E.
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:31 PM   #37
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PEX Fittings and bad temper

I too had bad luck with a Seatech "T" on the suction side of my water pump. I finally replaced it with a piece of clear plastic and clamps. The Seatech is not warranted with any PEX but Seatech. I was using Zurn from Lowe's. I am having good results with the cooper crimp rings and Zurn.

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