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Old 10-29-2017, 06:44 PM   #15
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I am sure a licensed plumber put the cheap M series copper in my house but it did not last 20yrs. I have had several corrosion related failures and a rub through from Romex rubbing on the pipe. Wire was not even marked but the copper wore through because it was too thin. I have seen several instances where plastic hose type connections have failed when the plastic parts loosened up over time. A major problem with plastics is that they creep and suffer stress relaxation over time. Soft plastics like PEX and the plastic PEX fittings are subject to this. If you have high water pressure, you will find this out. Everything that was built in the last 50yrs is designed t fail. Yes if everything is perfect, you might be ok. We won't know how PEX will do after 20-30yrs in service for a while.

Perry

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This is funny....I am a licensed plumber and own the wirsbro tools and have used it to pipe several large homes with great results, however I do not think it's the best for a trailer repipe as others here do. The expansion tool is difficult to get in tight spots for one, you cannot go tight fitting to fitting as said although I don't really see the need to, the fittings being freeze proof? Not so sure and the cost of the tool for those that don't allready own it.
For about $80 you can buy the Shark bite stainless ring crimping tool plus rings, fittings and pipe in red or blue at any Home Depot.
I went this way when doing my trailer and prefer everything about it for an RV application.
just my 2c.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:03 PM   #16
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Perry sorry for your trouble, am I to blame for some reason?
I have never used Type M copper in a water system though.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:06 PM   #17
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Sorry, Alan. You are not to blame.

Perry

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Perry sorry for your trouble, am I to blame for some reason?
I have never used Type M copper in a water system though.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:43 PM   #18
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The Wisboro looks great!! Except, there is no way to take things apart if you have to, and in a trailer that happens once in awhile.
Just cut off the white plastic collar and off the fitting comes, or attach a detachable fitting.....pretty simple.

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Old 10-29-2017, 08:15 PM   #19
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Try it sometime, its a bear to get off even with the ring gone. Remember you are expanding the pipe just to get over the fitting in the first place.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:37 PM   #20
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Try it sometime, its a bear to get off even with the ring gone. Remember you are expanding the pipe just to get over the fitting in the first place.
Had to do it a few times and found no problem?

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Old 10-30-2017, 08:41 AM   #21
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Good advise and experience shared. Appreciate everyoneís input!!
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:00 PM   #22
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Had to do it a few times and found no problem?

Cheers
Tony
I agree. I made some changes to my plumbing. It was pretty easy to break the existing crimp fittings with a largish angle cutter and open it up. Pipe slid off the existing fittings with only moderate effort. Based on recommendations I found on the web, I did cut off the sections of pipe that held the fittings before installing my new stuff - about 1/2 inch.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:35 PM   #23
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I agree. I made some changes to my plumbing. It was pretty easy to break the existing crimp fittings with a largish angle cutter and open it up. Pipe slid off the existing fittings with only moderate effort. Based on recommendations I found on the web, I did cut off the sections of pipe that held the fittings before installing my new stuff - about 1/2 inch.
Aquapex ProPex fittings are not crimp, they use a tool that expands the pipe and ring and DO NOT easily come apart , the use of heat to soften the pipe after the ring has been removed is nesessary.

Shark Bite brand PEX (and similar) pipe and fitting DO easily come apart once you cut the ring or crimp off.

That said the only reason I can see were you might want too would be to reuse the fitting, the pipe would still need to be cut back on ether type to get a fresh pipe end.

The grey pipe on end of autofill solenoid is what my trailer had originaly afaik. It is NOT PEX pipe
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:43 PM   #24
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wow... interesting that you are doing what I just went through... with mine... I had the gray tubing.. and its known for failing... with the plastic fittings... and it started as a little drip from one of the (you can't find 'em anymore) drain valves... so we got in their and replace 'em with new ball brass valves...

We got the blue, red and white PEX tubing made by sharkbite... along with the brass connectors... and used the copper rings and compression tools... elected to go with the sharkbite tool at first but it came apart so we went with the apollo brand... but, found that it was hard to get the tool into places... even when you make up the tubing replacement before... so we ordered the 45 deg angle tool... from the big box store.. and that seemed to get into tight places easier... I did try one of the rigid 45 angle tools from a friend and like it.. but the price was higher...

I went with the copper compression rings at the advise of our neighbor a plumber... they seem to last and do a good job of easy assembly... (you use a gauge tool to make sure they are within specs on each fitting)

I found that sharkbite makes just about anything needed in the 1/2 inch.. ballvalves, adapters etc... and went with their products due to being made in the USA...

Its not cheap.. and the PEX tubing is thicker wall... which makes it different from the orginal PB tubing... so you can't use the PB fitting.. and sharkbite make a adapter that will work from PEX to PB tubing if you splice it in... that one has the copper ring on the PB side...while the PEX uses the black copper on its side.. you can see the difference in the rings... as the bright copper is used to take up the difference.

I was advised not to use the push on fittings...from sharkbite and others... as they only have a O ring that seals the tubing... and it will eventually start to leak with age.. making you have to go in and do it all over again... The PEX compression fittings are in use and have been for over 35 years... so they seem to work well...

The stainless steel clamps... are what the RV industry is currently using.. but my plub'er neighbor said that they are narrower and while they do work.. are not as good for higher pressure...as well as they have a tendency to cut the PEX tubing if not put on exactly right... and are move expensive than the copper compression rings...used on the PEX... and to cut one off.. is not as easy... however they are cheaper tooling... and one tool works for all...

Another tool that I got was the apollo ring cutter... this way if you make a mistake.. you can cut the compression ring off... and re-use the brass fitting again...

About the only other thing I found was that AS used 3/8 tubing on the hot water side..from the input point to the kitchen... and I am sure the reason they did that was to use less water...as it comes out to be about half the displacement in the tubing... in gallons of water... so you would get hot water much faster and not waist as much waiting for it to get their... etc... I used 1/2 inch red PEX.. as that was all the big box store had... but, I did find adapters from 1/2 PEX to 3/8 PEX... only thing is the big box store doesn't carry 3/8 PEX tubing.. pooo...

To pull in the new PEX lines.. I found that crimping on a adapter fitting from the PB tubing to PEX and attaching the PEX line... you could pull the old line and it then pulls through the new... with ease... simple Remember that the code says that the red stuff is for hot and should be on top... blue, cold on bottom... etc.. but in RVs doesn't matter...

If I had any advise... I would say.. get a good 45 deg Compression too... not a cheap one... and keep it for more projects... A good PEX tubing cutter and the apollo compression ring cutter tool... Dont go with plastic ...or push on fittings... use brass ... and you will also have to lay things out in direct lines.. and 90 deg brass fittings... as the PEX tubing doesn't like to bend in tight radi... Try to make up the assembly before getting into the tight spot in the trailer... and use the copper compression rings from sharkbite... for the PEX tubing... (they are cheaper and seem to work better) Follow the directions of putting on the rings and PEX fittings... on UTUBE... and you should be golden...

someone said why didn't you use copper tubing... which has it problems... and is very expensive these days.. let alone the end fittings... ouch...

After I got done learning the navy new language directed towards the engineers at AS...I found it was not that hard to re-plumb the trailer... once you have the tools and hardware needed...

PROBLEMS WITH PEX....

seems its made from the same stuff wire insulation is... and little 4 legged critters love to chew on it... then again they also liked the old gray PB stuff too.. so make sure you take protection against them and leaks...
...some said that its got a taste to it.. but , we found that flushing the line like anything else.. took care of the problem...

..no worry about freezing.. its better than anything else.. and even if it does freeze... the tubing is able to take it... the fittings being brass or plastic.. won't...take the abuse...

The new AS are using the household PEX tubing... that has been used for the last 35 years in houses and in EU...

Good luck... stay away from the older gray PB stuff.. it is known to be a problem...
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:54 PM   #25
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^Good Advice...

The only thing I will add is to use pipe insulation on both hot and cold lines, it will do the obvious job and it will help protect from rubbing or chaffing wear as well as make the system quieter keeping it from vibrating against the trailer when the pump is running.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:57 PM   #26
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also avoid exposing PEX to UV light, like direct sunshine. It tends to deteriorate...if you run a drain line, wrap it in black split loom or pipe insulation...
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:18 PM   #27
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Looking over the pex system Iíve extracted from this old timer it used brass connectors & copper rings. It also has a whitish goo applied to all connections which appears to my untrained eye to be the liquid equivalent of teflon tape. What was this stuff? No mention so far in this thread. This install is moderately old but it did not leak. I just did not like the layout and am updating it along with other infrastructure.
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Old 10-31-2017, 11:53 PM   #28
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Looking over the pex system Iíve extracted from this old timer it used brass connectors & copper rings. It also has a whitish goo applied to all connections which appears to my untrained eye to be the liquid equivalent of teflon tape. What was this stuff? No mention so far in this thread. This install is moderately old but it did not leak. I just did not like the layout and am updating it along with other infrastructure.
Indeed.. I have seen others put teflon tape around the fittings before crimping on the new rings... this is really not a good thiing.. as the crimp down is to get the tubing to form around the lands on the fittings... all connections should be made dry.. I was told... if you put tape on them they won't seal right... even though they appear not to at first... the will not allow the edge of the brass land to press into the tubing... making the seal...and thus not make a good connection...

Also.. for those who have said.. ops guess I didn't make a good connection ..yet the GO/NO GO gauge seem to be correct... but the fitting could turn inside the tubing... not to worry... if you made the connection correctly and use the compression rings in the right place... it is only the land of the fitting turning inside the tube... that has formed around the land and will still do a good job of sealing... for a long time...

But, I wouldn't make it a habit of twisting the fittings.. just to be on the safe side.. but we all seem to miss the right angle every so often.. and tweek the fitting around to make 'er work...

All good stuff... and making experts out of the many A/S owners and mechanics...

Used to hate PEX.. now I find I like it much better than even copper tubing... and while the tubing is REAL cheap... fittings.. well... brass is expensive but never the less.. you need 'em to make the system good for life...

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