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Old 02-26-2013, 06:03 PM   #1
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beaumont , Texas
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no water inside 69 safari

I just got my 69 safari to Texas, after the wheel liberated itself in kentucky. I started going through it today, no water either from city side or fresh tank. There are 2 valves near the fresh tank, 2 valves in rear access area.I am not at all sure how to make anything happen. One problem is that the copper sweat joints were all seperated, all that are in the rear compartment. I repaired that, with hose joints. the pump will come on, but nothing happens. I think one of the valves in front is a drain, at least when it is open i can hear water draining out. I am thinking this happened when the trailer rode on the skid loops after the wheel spun off. I need help to figure out how to make the water work inside. Can anybody steer me in the right direction.? maybe a plumbing diagram for a 69 safari 23? thanks guys.. Richard
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:48 AM   #2
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Greetings Richard!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dixie722 View Post
I just got my 69 safari to Texas, after the wheel liberated itself in kentucky. I started going through it today, no water either from city side or fresh tank. There are 2 valves near the fresh tank, 2 valves in rear access area.I am not at all sure how to make anything happen. One problem is that the copper sweat joints were all seperated, all that are in the rear compartment. I repaired that, with hose joints. the pump will come on, but nothing happens. I think one of the valves in front is a drain, at least when it is open i can hear water draining out. I am thinking this happened when the trailer rode on the skid loops after the wheel spun off. I need help to figure out how to make the water work inside. Can anybody steer me in the right direction.? maybe a plumbing diagram for a 69 safari 23? thanks guys.. Richard
Some of the issues that I have encountered that cause problems with my Airstreams' fresh water systems include:
  • Whe the problem is with the city water supply side, the first thing that I check is the brass pressure regulator that is typically located within a few inches of where the City Water enters the rear of the coach. Sometimes applying a couple of quick blasts of air pressure to the valve will free it up, but more often than not, it needs to be replaced.
  • A low point drain valave that is left in the open position can result in no water flow or very limited water flow.
  • Some Vintage coaches have a valve in the rear one-stop-service-compartment that it utilized to switch between the City Water Service and the on-board fresh water tank. If this valve isn't either fully opened or closed it can present all kinds of strange symptoms in the water system.
  • A previous owner may have installed a water heater bypass kit, and these valves must be in correct positions to permit proper flow thrughout the water system.
  • With the on-board fresh water tank side of the system, if there is little or no flow, there are several potential culprits:
    • There is often a sediment filter near the pump, and if the sediment filter becomes blocked it will prevent water from flowing in the system.
    • Even if the pump runs, it is possible for a defective diaghphram to result in no water being drawn from the tank. The pump may also need to be primed.
    • Sometimes that rubber/plastic/vinyl hoses that connect the pump to the water system will become porous which allows air to be drawn into the system reducing water pressure.
  • It is also possible that the aerators on the faucets may be clogged with grit/dirt/sediment/or calcium build-up. Soaking aerators in hot vinegar can release the grip of deposits left by hard water.
Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:34 AM   #3
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thanks

Thanks for the information. I think it is all of the above. Iam thinking mostly the regulator, but will take everything apart. I am ready with all the pex, tools, fittings, etc. will let you know. Richard
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:56 AM   #4
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We replaced a freeze-damaged copper water system in our '66 Safari with PEX and have been very glad we did so.

Draw a diagram of the existing system before you tear out anything. Detail is good. Which line is hot, which is cold, which valves go where and do what, etc. In confined areas, such as near the water pump, I had to re-engineer the system because the PEX compatible valves took up more space than the old ones, but it was easy once I understood what each valve did.

With a lot of planning, I was able to pre-build sections of the system, lay them in place, and do the final connections in areas where there was enough room for the PEX crimping tool to work.

The project is more thinkin' than it is workin'.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:05 AM   #5
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pex

Did you use the crimp tool or the sharkbite fittings? i bought the fitting, and on checkout thought they were going to have to break out the paddles. I bought them anyway, but on further thought, went back and bought the tool and the rings fittings, I plan on returning the sharkbites and the brass fittings. I cant justify spending so much on that stuff. Now i just need to learn how to use what I bought , I bought the go no go tool too... just to make sure. thanks, Richard
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