Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-18-2002, 09:50 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 14
Talking I thought it was PEX

Well.. I thought it was PEX until I read this thread. Ooops!

Anyway - it has worked great so far. I never checked the PSI - I also bought and installed a new water pressure regulator for hooking up between the hose and city water inlet. (just to be sure)

I cheked the line - it is stamped with: "1/2" BRAIDED PVC" (which is 3/8" inside and 5/8" outside) - so this hose was pretty thick (when you cut it you can see the cross section that has the fiberglass threads in the middle of the plastic hose). They have several sizes -> maybe thicker = more PSI tolerance? I just bought what seemed right to me.

The fitings are either the plastic (I think QWEST) or regular brass - just use a barb ending (looks kinda like a pyramid with steps). The hose just sweezes on and is secured with a clamp. Same thing for the tees - just get three barb ending tees.

I never thought about it before - but you could go nuts and untighten the clamps and remove any horizontal hose and lift one end - they'd be winterized

You can also use brass - bard at one end to a copper compression clamp (with the little O ring inside that gets tightened down on the copper line).

For faucets / fixtures, I just used regular faucet hook-ups available with any basic plumbing supplies. The ends are usually 3/8" and you can hookup the female end of the hook-up to a male screw brass fiting with a barb. So its hose- clamp - barb - male brass - female (usually plastic) faucet hookup. Works great on hot or cold - sink / vanity or shower.

All fitings, clamps and hose I got at Home Depot, but Menards carries everything as well. One may not have the correct size fiting you want and you have to go somewhere else to get it.

If you can play with legos or lincoln logs - you can do this kind of plumbing. And it is really easily repaired / replaced or rerouted.

The REAL challenge is getting to or getting elbow room along the plumbing lines in the trailer!

Also - buy some nail or screw down clamps for the hose and place them at strategic spots (like before and after bends).

One last note - a plumber friend of mine said this would work great - he fixed all my house plumbing and does this for a living so I figured my trailer would be ok. He also said the plastic gives more than the copper and resists the expansion / leaks that improper winterizing causes with copper.

I leave with a puzzle - I had intended to do all copper lines. The problem was the copper in the trailer (numerous leaks and splits) was in only a FEW spots 1/2" but most everywhere expanded just beyond 1/2" and absolutely WOULD NOT fit with 1/2" fitings. I can NOT tell if it is from SEVERE freezing or just weird copper tubing. Did A/S use something special? The copper is marked: " 1/2" TYPE L H.M.P. MADE IN THE USA".

So I cut out what I didn't need and got to the sink fitings which were standard faucet hook-ups someone else had put in. That started me thinking about the fiberglass hose.
__________________

__________________
Argosy74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2002, 09:59 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
Silver Bullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 229
The PEX hose is rated at 200 psi. I've spliced two areas on my copper lines (cold) with it. It holds quite well but again, the desert heat will harden it to where it will leak no matter how tight the clamps get. Eventually I will replace the entire system with new copper. Copper refining has come along way in 40 yrs.,it's thinner walls are stronger because of the alloys added to the copper. The tubing I have is a thick wall and does not work with todays fittings and tubing. In my experience "metal is better" from a durability standpoint. Oscar
__________________

__________________
Silver Bullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2002, 05:59 AM   #17
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pick's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
High Springs , Florida
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,310
Images: 36
Send a message via AIM to Pick
I believe the fiberglass braided clear line is rated between 65-90#. I don't think my pump, which is a new "quiet" RV water pump goes over 35#.

Just a thought, when winterizing, does everyone leave the drain valves open, during the winter? It seems to me, that if you did and there was still some water in the lines that it would not expand the copper.
__________________
ARS WA8ZYT
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce!
Air # 283
WBCCI 1350
Pick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2002, 02:15 PM   #18
3 Rivet Member
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
2001 31' Excella
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 242
Images: 3
Argosy74,

Did you replace ALL of the water lines in your TT? Hot too? And water heater connections?

Just curious...

Craig
__________________
Craig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2002, 07:08 PM   #19
3 Rivet Member
 
Silver Bullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 229
Yes Pick,

I do. I'll leave the drain pipes (not valves on mine), the inlet valve and all the interior valves and spickets open for winter shut down. Helps with freeze expansion and saves on valve seals being compressed in the closed position. Oscar
__________________
Silver Bullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2002, 07:44 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
Chas's Avatar
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 949
Images: 22
I have used the clear braided hose on my Argosy as well but only on the cold side. It is so easy to work with!!
But will it withstand the hot side especially in the vicinity of the water heater?
__________________
Former Airstreamer
Chas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2002, 08:29 AM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
1967 22' Safari
clarkston , Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 52
new water lines

In the words of Mitch Ryder "no-no-no,no,no-no-no-no" I've worked maintenence at apartments that had those on the hot side of sinks and they caused several floods. I would think it will be ok on a low pressure, hot side application a little ways from the water heater but it would most likelly balloon up and burst if it was right by the heat source. I sould recomment a water pressure valve on supply line ( ours has one from the factory I think)tod47d
__________________
tod47d is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2002, 08:34 AM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
1967 22' Safari
clarkston , Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 52
new water lines

Oops forgot to mention that braided stainless although expensive have proven reliable
__________________
tod47d is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2002, 06:11 PM   #23
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 14
Hot Side Not Done Yet

Craig,

No - I just did the cold side (was going to wait till spring for the hot side). I had wondered about the hot side (but was planning on using it anyway). I'm sure lower pressure (regulator before inlet) and less frequent use (handful of camping trips a year - unfortunately ) would be an assistance; but not sure now.

If I did use it for the hot, I was thinking about brass flare fitings off the hot tank going to the hose. Other posts make me wonder. I'll have to ask at Home Depot / talk to a couple plumber friends to check it out. I'd love to get ahold of some specs for this type of hose - I'm sure it would indicate something somewhere.

Anyone else have any input?
__________________
Argosy74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2002, 06:18 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
LOST , Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
Atwood installation instructions recommend 18" of copper before any plastic, etc. lines on both inlet and outlet. Makes sense as aluminum is so conductive and that is what heats the water.

John
__________________
74Argosy24MH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2002, 02:51 PM   #25
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 14
Question How do I Flare Copper?

74Argosy24 MH,

What is Atwood? Hot tank manuf?

I like the copper idea (at least 18") - but I'd have to learn how to flare copper to hook up to the hot water heater. The coppor line is expanded beyond 1/2" sizes (I've tried in several places) so I'll have to go all the way back to the brass fiting right on the tank. The original copper line is flared.

Any thoughts anyone?
__________________
Argosy74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2002, 03:18 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
LOST , Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
Atwood is the water heater manufacturer.

Flaring is easy, just don't buy the cheapest flaring tool you can find, they usually won't grip the tube properly. A few practice flares and you will be a pro.

If you don't want to flare, water would also be ok with a compression fitting. Slip the ferrule on and tighten the nut.

John
__________________
74Argosy24MH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2002, 12:01 AM   #27
3 Rivet Member
 
68 Suburban's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 104
Quote:
So its hose- clamp - barb - male brass - female (usually plastic) faucet hookup.
What is a "barb"?
__________________
Here is the link to Dingo's trailer:
1968 Avion T-22
68 Suburban is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2002, 12:05 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
BobbyW's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,002
Images: 9
A "barb" is the rippled piece of metal or plastic fitting the tubing is forced on to keep it from popping off.

-BobbyWright
__________________

__________________
BobbyW
AIR# 123

-"You want to make it two inches - or, if you're working in centimeters, make sure it's enough centimeters for two inches."-Red Green
BobbyW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
sterilizing water lines. Theo Fresh Water Systems 3 01-16-2004 05:33 PM
Water Lines bpaolini Fresh Water Systems 8 09-16-2003 06:43 PM
noisy water lines kooblekidz Airstream Motorhome Forums 1 08-03-2003 02:35 PM
Water lines in '73 Overlander Bryan Fresh Water Systems 8 06-06-2002 12:42 AM
Replace copper water lines in '61 Bambi 61BambiCanada Fresh Water Systems 1 05-22-2002 07:04 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.