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Old 07-08-2010, 11:33 AM   #15
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1998 25' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post

General questions:
What would happen if the water pump was turned on while city inlet was also in use?
The city water pressure is usually higher then the pump pressure and will keep the pump from coming on.

How does the (valved) bipass line around the water pump (and check valve) help drain a water tank that is under the floor (as opposed to the pictured above floor variety)?
~~or~~
is it there as another way to fill the water tank,(with "city water") eliminating need for manual pour in. ....not to drain the tank? ~~or~~ would it serve both purposes (filling and draining) ?
If you put a "T" in the in and out line from the pump and a line with a tap across them you can fill the tank by opening the tap.
I use this in my trailers.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:37 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bex View Post
Go it.
Now just one last item I think, then I can re-build my plumbing.
Why (in the diagram) is there a line joining the tank to the city/main line?

Bex
In our trailer ('66 Safari) the "bypass" around the pump allows the tank to be filled from city water, not drained. In your diagram, there's a separate drain for the water tank itself. There should be other drains for the rest of the system.

If the pump were turned on while city water was connected to the trailer, it would turn itself off. There is a pressure switch in the pump that tells it to run only when the pressure in the system drops below a certain level, which should be well below the pressure supplied by city water.

We used color coded 1/2" PEX with crimped fittings to replace the copper water lines in our trailer. Only problem is finding space to operate the crimp tool. In essence, we built each section as much as possible outside the trailer, then laid the assembly in place and connected it at a location where there was room for the tool to operate.

Be sure to draw a diagram (rough sketch OK) of the system you have before you tear anything out. There will be a little re-design necessary, because copper fittings will turn tighter corners than PEX fittings will. Just use the space you have and make something up that does the same job. This was especially true in the area near our water pump.
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:38 PM   #17
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Pex is what I intend to use and the water bypass is a good idea that (now I know that's what it is) I shall incorporate into the build.
The pump shut off is the same as my truck demand pumps, quits when back pressure gets up.
I do have an ongoing, changing diagram that I am putting together that is now just about complete. Next is to replace the floor, install a new Town water inlet, power inlet and get to work on this plumbing. I might actually have this trailer able to be used before the end of July. OK then, August.
Thats once again everybody for your invaluable help.

Bex
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