Need advice on removing City Water Fill on 1994 Limit

[Don McKelvay]

My check valve (part of the City Water Fill - see pictures) leaks behind the front plate and runs out the bottom of the compartment - it needs to be replaced. The problem is how to do this.
When the screws holding the Fill are removed it only moves out 1/4" or so from the steel cover plate so cannot be easily replaced.
I have removed the screws holding both the fill and the other two inlets, plus the screws on the plate on the right. However, even with all that the plate on the right can only be swung to the right a bit.
I 'think' the next step would be to use a vice grip to hold the PEX tubing to the inlet on the right and then unscrew the inlet. Then the plate should be able to be removed and allow more access to the back of the City Water Fill.
But, how do you remove the old City Water Fill and Check Valve and install a new one? My Pex tubing has copper rings which I gather is 'old technology'. The Shurflo website says the check valve should be connected to a flexible tube not a rigid one. Also, the copper rings have apparently been replaced with a crimping system. If there was room (which I do not think there is) then a 'Sharkbite' would probably do a good job.
I would appreciate any help especially any pictures.
Thanks,

[Don McKelvay]

Unfortunately no one seems to have had the same problem and provided a solution. However, luckily my friend Tom has the same trailer and had removed the complete compartment. He came over and told me what to do.


Actually it was pretty simple, but very tedious as half the work has to be done blind and by touch.


First, I used a 5/8" open wrench to slowly turn the nut on the inlet on the right. Keep the screws in the inlet so it does not turn. When the nut comes off, remove the screws and remove the inlet. This then allows the backing plate to be removed and thus gain much more access to the inside of the compartment.


Whereas initially I thought I would have to cut the copper collar around the pex tubing which is connected to the water inlet and check valve, luckily that was not necessary. The water inlet is connected to a nut on the pex tubing. Note this nut is not 5/8" but rather 15/16". Using a 15/16" wrench simply (ho ho) slowly turn it off, again leaving the four screws in the water inlet so it does not turn. Once the nut is off, remove the screws and the water inlet comes out.


Now the problem and tedious work starts. Screw on the new inlet onto the nut, holding the nut in place with the wrench. This all has to be done by touch and is very difficult as three times I had to remove the inlet as it became cross threaded and the water inlet threads are plastic. Using a mirror and a light helped but it was not easy. (see the various pictures).


To ensure it was sealed properly I first turned on the water pump - no leaks, then hooked up a water hose and again no leak. Then it was a simple job to reconnect the right inlet and put all the screws back including the backing plate on the right.

It will be great not to have a water leak again.


If you have to do the same and have any questions send me a PM.

I think I have to include another post with the other two pictures.

Cheers,
Don

[Don McKelvay]

Here are the other two pictures showing the mirror which was the only way to see if the water inlet was screwed on properly. The newspaper was put down to assist in checking to see if there was a water leak.

Cheers,
Don