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Old 12-31-2008, 01:31 PM   #1
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Late Model '03 FW Tank Removal ??

I'm having an issue with the drain valve on my 2003 22'CCD. The drain valve is in what I think is a really bad location and because of the need for it to be in the lowest point of the tank means it's closest to the road than almost anything else on the trailer. It leaked a little (drops on the concrete pad when tank was full) and now leaks alot.

The attached photo shows the valve in question, it now spins round and round without getting tight. Threads are stripped I'm sure. It's a plastic tank with a brass nipple and then a PVC (CHEAP) ball valve. The problem in my quick look is the brass nipple threads are way stronger than than the tank threads and have probably damaged the tank connection.

QUESTIONS: I can remove the tank support cover - on a '03 CCD there is no belly pan, and gain access to the tank.
Any advice on removing the cover to access the tank?

Wires and plumbing - is there sufficient length to allow them to be disconnected safely?

Does anyone think I can salvage the tank or will I need a new one if the threads are buggered? Repair options?

BTW - while looking into the access hole and feeling around with my fingers I found a sliver 12 inches by 1/4 inch of trimmed off aluminum sheet from the body panel install - probably from one of the exterior openings - just waiting to slice my finger off.

Trying to get her ready for the early year travel season.

Mike
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:05 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by clancy_boy View Post
Does anyone think I can salvage the tank or will I need a new one if the threads are buggered? Repair options?
Not sure about the specifics on the newer trailers, but I know for the restoration of our '56 with brand new tanks, I took our tanks to a place that makes tanks and they spin fit the threaded parts into the tank - exactly where we wanted them. Not sure if the tank has to be "unused" to do so...but it was very easy to do, it took the guy abour two minutes for each fitting. He had a sort of hole saw that cut the hole & melted the new fitting right in all in one swoop.

I would look for a local tank supplier by you to see if they can help you out. I think it was $5 for each one I had done.

This wouldn't work if your tanks are fiberglass...

Shari
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:05 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by clancy_boy View Post
I'm having an issue with the drain valve on my 2003 22'CCD. The drain valve is in what I think is a really bad location and because of the need for it to be in the lowest point of the tank means it's closest to the road than almost anything else on the trailer. It leaked a little (drops on the concrete pad when tank was full) and now leaks alot.

The attached photo shows the valve in question, it now spins round and round without getting tight. Threads are stripped I'm sure. It's a plastic tank with a brass nipple and then a PVC (CHEAP) ball valve. The problem in my quick look is the brass nipple threads are way stronger than than the tank threads and have probably damaged the tank connection.

QUESTIONS: I can remove the tank support cover - on a '03 CCD there is no belly pan, and gain access to the tank.
Any advice on removing the cover to access the tank?

Wires and plumbing - is there sufficient length to allow them to be disconnected safely?

Does anyone think I can salvage the tank or will I need a new one if the threads are buggered? Repair options?

BTW - while looking into the access hole and feeling around with my fingers I found a sliver 12 inches by 1/4 inch of trimmed off aluminum sheet from the body panel install - probably from one of the exterior openings - just waiting to slice my finger off.

Trying to get her ready for the early year travel season.

Mike
The small drain valve to the right, in your photo, is factory equipped.

The larger 'ball valve" was not installed by the factory.

I would guess that someone installed it as a "fill valve" and not as a drain valve.

Andy
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:19 PM   #4
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Question to those that know more than I do.

Can the OP remove that large valve and stem into the tank and plug the hole with out removing the tank?
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:59 PM   #5
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Question to those that know more than I do.

Can the OP remove that large valve and stem into the tank and plug the hole with out removing the tank?
Sure can try.

Should work ok, unless the threaded fitting is bad.

Make sure you use some pipe dope, on the threads, or teflon tape.

Andy
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:34 PM   #6
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The small drain valve to the right, in your photo, is factory equipped.

The larger 'ball valve" was not installed by the factory.

I would guess that someone installed it as a "fill valve" and not as a drain valve.

Andy

Thank You Andy but I have seen this on another trailer. Maybe dealer installed but I feel it was bought this way. The hole cut for the fitting to pass is painted and it matches the paint throughout the tank cover. Also - the tank seems to have a thick area where the nipple is threaded so it seems to be made to have a valve here.

I'll give it a better look tomarrow. We rarely need the FW tank except for rest stop use on the road. I do like the weight while towing to lower the center of gravity of the trailer.

Thank You for the help.

Mike
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