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Old 07-29-2012, 11:14 PM   #15
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1974 23' Safari
Mesa , Arizona
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Belegedhel, very nice thank you!

~jerry
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:54 PM   #16
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1974 23' Safari
Mesa , Arizona
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J bolts and Bal stabilizers

I thought I would post a note about a couple of small items while I was putting everything back after refitting the plywood and and water tank.

First, my "74 service manual" says that I should use J Bolts to secure the one end of the Bal Stabilizers. I couldn't figure our how to get them inserted so I drilled a 1" inspection hole in the belly pan near where the J Bolt should be inserted. I was surprised to find that the supporting crossmember frame was solid and not truss like. There was no place to "hang" the J bolt. So I just used self tapping screws with lock washers which seemed to work fine.

Second, the manual talks about using self tapping screws 1.5" through the front Z bar when reinstalling it. When removing the Z bar originally there were no screws but some type of very flat rivets. I reinstalled with the self tapping screws, but there really was nothing there for them to grab into other than the very thin belly pan itself. I plan to go back and use the same type of rivets that were not discussed in the service manual.

Hope all this helps someone in the future.

~jerry
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:42 PM   #17
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Great info Jerry, I plan on pulling the tank on my 74 Ambassador in the near future. When you emptyed the tank with the drain valve, did you have any significant water remaining in the tank when you pulled the plywood support. I have heard of up to 10 gallons residual water remaining in the tank.

To SeasideSteph, I am originally from Palacios, just up HW 35 from you. Hope to retire back down that way in a couple of years.

By the way, Inca Plastics Molding company is still in business, I just looked at their web site last night. They have tank repair procedures(if you should ever need them).
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:01 AM   #18
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Ora, there was some water left in the tank but not too much. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

~jerry
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:41 AM   #19
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Jerry,

My fresh tank seems to be easier to service than yours. I also added a hatch in the center of the tank that allowed plenty of space for cleaning. Fittings for the tank, water pump, and water lines will be new.

The famous Indiana limestone provides calcium and other minerals into the aquifer where our house tap water originates. The same kind of water must be in the water supply in the wells in northern Michigan near Lake Michigan, north of Grand Rapids, where the POs parked the trailer in a deer camp. These minerals were caked over the interior, and discolored the appearance of the tank. Your fittings looked similar to mine, so that is why I am posting this information.

I used toilet bowl cleaner that had no phosphates, and had a very 'sticky' adhesion to the entire tank interior. I used a long handled soft bristle scrub brush that allowed me to reach the entire interior. The height of my tank is about 14 inches, and it is around 5 feet long, 14 inches wide. After a few very heavy applications, (especially at the depth of the water level that remained in the tank since I bought the trailer) each time leaving the cleaner on for a few minutes to work on the minerals.

The appearance of the tank revealed a slightly blue tint, and gradually over the day was completely transformed into a nice clean tank. Of course, I was careful to rinse and fill and empty with water many times. I do not want to use bleach to disinfect the tank and PEX lines because I read on the Shurflo site it could harm some of the parts within the pump. I need this pump to last a couple more years, at least. The same company makes pool cover pump we use. It has lasted already a few years.

If I did use bleach, I would isolate the pump and not use it to circulate solution through and into the PEX lines. Instead, I would use a wet vac to remove the solution and rinse water until the bleach was cleared. I am not sure yet how I would disinfect the water lines.

I removed the tank and all the copper about two years ago. I sealed all the openings of the tank and stored it in the garage. Last week I worked on PEXing the water system.

The tank was in the front of the trailer under the bench area between the twin benches for the dinette. I took out the dinette and put a queen bed in the front, with the head underneath the front window. Once I finish with the floor and shore water supply, I will be able to put the tank back into the same space as before. I will have to reinforce the tank space with a dividing panel lengthwise of the tank, across the width of the bed. I want to secure the tank to the floor with tie-downs and d-rings mounted to the floor, or build a box to hold the tank securely. I expect to use the tank quite often because we are touring Indiana state parks, and generally, they do not provide a tap for campsites.

Your tank seems to be nice and wide but the height seems restricting for hands on cleaning, but not impossible. Your addition of the hatch will be helpful. Could you add a hatch to the other side?

For a thorough cleaning, you could make a flexible mop or brush, by attaching it to a drain line snake. You could adjust the slope of the tank so that water and sediment would collect in the ends of each side, by gravity. These could be removed using a wet vac hose through the hatch on each side.

I will add some photos very soon. I posted about this project in my remodel thread, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f116...tml#post926696 I want to acknowledge that I got the idea from Smokeless Joe here on the forums.

I ordered my hatch from:
http://topkayaker.net/topkayakershop...products_id=75

Someone who commented on my thread said it would be possible to find a hatch at a price much lower than the one I purchased. I called the company and Tom answered. He suggested all the steps I took on installing. Very nice guy.

I am enjoying reading about your project. Mine is very slow, as life permits the chunks of time needed to tackle a repair.

Best regards,
Anne
Indianapolis, IN /
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:49 PM   #20
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Anne, thanks for the info on your tank. Since I will be eventually redoing the front gaucho to a dinette I might try the same setup as your. My tank heighth of around 5" really is limiting.

~jerry
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:09 AM   #21
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Jerry, Thanks just what I needed. I will have to roll around under trailer and see if I can find the bolts and other attachment points.

One thing you did fine with the plywood you used over the Russian Baltic Birch. It is great for a lot of things due to the high number of plys and usually good quality plys. I have heard contrary things. All plywood these days use exterior glue but I would not bet on it. The Baltic Birch is designed, I believe, for interior applications. It probably wood of been ok but exterior fir with the preserver you put on was a good choice.

Tony
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:49 AM   #22
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My understanding is Inca plastics still makes the tank. Home

I will be ordering one very soon. Will be taking the plywood out today. My plan is two 4" eye bolts into the edge, which seems sound, and put a rod or bike lock cable, I have, through it and use the truck like you did or the come a long.

I found Inca Plastics to be very helpful.

Tony
Rogue River, Oregon
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by jerryahyman View Post
I hope that this information might be helpful to someone in the future. Lastly I have a question. Loose inside the tank I found the fitting below which I assume went to the supply/drain outlet and acted as a trap for dirt and sediment. I would like to know if anyone reading this has the expertise to tell me if I need to fix it back in place. I assume that as long as I am using a good filter between the tank and pump I don't need to, but I would like to know for sure before reassembling everything. Below are some closeup photos.
That part was used so that you could receive more water from the bottom of the tank, when the oval end faced downward.

Andy
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:46 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by jerryahyman View Post
In the last photo above you can see the open fill inlets (large opening upper left), a sealed fill inlet (upper right), the two vent openings between the fill inlets, black sensors and wires, the bottom supply outlet/drain outlet (bottom center). Also pictured are the two elbow fittings for the vent openings, straight fitting for the supply outlet/drain opening. More on the fourth fitting later.

This next photo is the information embossed in the plastic by the manufacture. It says INCA T1237 168 600-276. Also in black marker is the later M and the number 13777. I understand that INCA is probably not making this tank and there is only one source for new tank at somewhere between $400 and $600. Supposedly these tanks are difficult to have a lasting repair. However, someone has repaired my tank in the past (see black patch center rear on top of tank) and I so far have had no leaks from the tank.
What size is the "bottom supply outlet/drain outlet"? I just got through refitting my overlander with pex and the only things left to do are connect the fresh water tank fill inlet and that outlet.
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