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Old 05-21-2016, 11:21 AM   #1
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Is this my Freshwater Tank Drain?

Just wanted to confirm: The user manual on my 2016 27' FC FB says there is a plastic petcock for my freshwater tank drain outside the coach, but doesn't say where.

I found what looks like a drain valve on the drivers side, between the wheels.

Is this it?

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Old 05-21-2016, 11:35 AM   #2
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Yes, you have found it! You are lucky to access it that easy. Most are more behind the front tire. You have a new AS, so you do not have to be too concerned about breaking the spigot handle as I did. That's the difference in owning a 30+ and a new!
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:41 AM   #3
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It Will Break

It is plastic and over time it will break. I got tired of replacing mine and installed a brass/stainless steel model which I found through a post here in Airforums. You can probably find it through the search function.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
Just wanted to confirm: The user manual on my 2016 27' FC FB says there is a plastic petcock for my freshwater tank drain outside the coach, but doesn't say where.

I found what looks like a drain valve on the drivers side, between the wheels.

Is this it?
Yes, I believe it is. Ours looks identical but is about 4' further back on our FC20. Do you have water in the tank? Open the valve and see what happens!

Cheers,

Peter

PS -- If you have not sanitized your fresh water tank, you should when convenient, especially if you are going to drink or cook with the water (which most owners do not). Your manual should talk about adding dilute bleach etc., and plenty of threads discuss this. Also be careful about what water you put in the tank, as some campgrounds pump their own water from the ground, and lots of sediment and particulate matter ends up in the tank. This can clog not only your plastic drain, but also the filter at the 12v pump which pressurizes the tank water going into the trailer's plumbing system.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:41 PM   #5
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It is, and eventually it will cease to function....I replaced the flange with THIS and added a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:36 PM   #6
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Some are easier to turn than others, no need to turn it completely past where the flow stops or starts. The closer you grip the little handle, the less stress on it. Ours is still working fine going nearly five years, I'll take a look at the options if/when it breaks. The plastic may be a little more resistant to freeze damage.
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
It is, and eventually it will cease to function....I replaced the flange with . . . and added a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob
Nice set up, but is the discharge end lower than everything else nearby? At the top 90 elbow, the assembly could be rotated 45 degrees or so counter-clockwise, so that the bottom was not as subject to impact from below.

How hard was the plastic valve to get off? The surface screws on its flange allow it to be pulled off that galvanized pan, I guess, and then is there tubing and a clamp which connects it to the tank? Wondering if this configuration varies by model year?

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:49 PM   #8
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The red plastic cap makes it appear 3/4" lower.

The plastic flange is easy off, just remove the hose clamp and install the aluminum replacement.

The ball valve stays open when the FW tank is empty.

By the way....that seller has some nice accessories for the 2000i Honda also, makes them all in his own shop.

Bob
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Old 05-21-2016, 03:42 PM   #9
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Gotcha, thanks, and thanks for the Honda acces. link.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:09 PM   #10
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Hi Bob. You make replacing the plastic drain seem much easier than I found it to be. Yes, you are correct. Remove the clamp but boy did I have a tough time with it. Maybe it's my big hands and the small access. Yes I did get it off but what an effort it was. I do like your replacement. I just might do that on this trailer when / if the time comes. I hope you don't have a copyright on it.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:16 PM   #11
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Rocks from traveling over gravel can break the valve flush and drain your water tank while touring the Mohave Desert... or the deserts of Nevada, like our experience. When Jackson Center removed the small cork I used and wire to hold it solid in the flush break... the new valve was replaced with the same plastic one.

The only change was that I requested bent sheet metal to protect the valve from another stone sheering it flush, again. Worked. Although that brass valve used by Robert Cross... sure looks more resistant to breaking.

Nice tires. Must be running Michelins. They can pick up some very coarse stones... so carry some small corks and piano wire to retain the cork IF you have issues.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
especially if you are going to drink or cook with the water (which most owners do not).
I find this strange, because most of the folks I know, Airstream and otherwise, DO cook with and drink the water. I have seen posts where people have mentioned bottled water, but I can't imagine it's most.

Maybe we need a survey? Is it maybe a regional or east coast thing where maybe the water might not be as good? Some other reason?
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:36 PM   #13
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I made up this handy dandy little tool to assist in opening and closing the drain valve.
Note: I use the water in my tank for showers, drinking and cooking on a regular basis. I keep it at least half full and drain and refill at least once a month if not using it a lot.
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:31 AM   #14
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Awchief, you are awesome with ideas
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:22 PM   #15
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On my previous Hi-Lo, I also broke the plastic valve and had to replace it; a ten minute job. 'Easy Peasy!'
The Airstream is a different story. I would like to meet the dimwit who designed THAT arrangement.
Before I installed the replacement valve on the Hi-Lo. I used a "Q"-tip to lubricate the inside of the valve with Silicone grease, working it back and forth. That valve worked great for five years till I traded it in for the Airsteam.
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
It is, and eventually it will cease to function....I replaced the flange with THIS and added a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob

Bob Thanks!!! As the say timing is everything. I've been having some trouble with out petcock valve and have been considering swapping it out for metal before it breaks off.

I was planning on searching the threads tonight.

[ The plastic flange is easy off, just remove the hose clamp and install the aluminum replacement] The aluminum replacement being a barbed (?) male on the tank side and a NPT (3/8"s ?) and help by clamp (as opposed to the condensation line from the AC) to the ell to the BV?


Does the line from the tank pull out or did you have to work behind the curtain as polarlyse suggests?

I also agree with OTRA15...discharge, I would angle to the rear...just past horizontal

Nice setup.
Thx

b
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:47 PM   #17
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Thanks all! Yes! It was my freshwater drain. And quite a while it took to drain off, too.

Thanks again.

Rich
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Bob Thanks!!! As the say timing is everything. I've been having some trouble with out petcock valve and have been considering swapping it out for metal before it breaks off.

I was planning on searching the threads tonight.

[ The plastic flange is easy off, just remove the hose clamp and install the aluminum replacement] The aluminum replacement being a barbed (?) male on the tank side and a NPT (3/8"s ?) and help by clamp (as opposed to the condensation line from the AC) to the ell to the BV?


Does the line from the tank pull out or did you have to work behind the curtain as polarlyse suggests?

I also agree with OTRA15...discharge, I would angle to the rear...just past horizontal

Nice setup.
Thx

b
Ours was pretty easy to remove, I had to be careful removing the clamp so I didn't lose any length, no excess at all. I did the replacement on a rather cool day so I used the DW's hair dryer to soften the hose.
The ball valve doesn't improve drainage time very much, I just use a 10' length of plastic tubing and let it drain into the garden overnight.

Bob
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:38 PM   #19
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Bob thanks. Note to self. All good tips!
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:26 PM   #20
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Everybody's set up seems different. On mine no hose clamp that I can see. I used two mini pry bars to pull the valve off the tank--valve fits into the hose which stayed inside the tank. Hopefully the valve hosebarb will slide back in or I just made my clog problem into a leak problem!! Doh!!!



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