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Old 05-22-2016, 07:22 PM   #15
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On my previous Hi-Lo, I also broke the plastic valve and had to replace it; a ten minute job. 'Easy Peasy!'
The Airstream is a different story. I would like to meet the dimwit who designed THAT arrangement.
Before I installed the replacement valve on the Hi-Lo. I used a "Q"-tip to lubricate the inside of the valve with Silicone grease, working it back and forth. That valve worked great for five years till I traded it in for the Airsteam.
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Old 05-22-2016, 10:16 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
It is, and eventually it will cease to function....I replaced the flange with THIS and added a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob

Bob Thanks!!! As the say timing is everything. I've been having some trouble with out petcock valve and have been considering swapping it out for metal before it breaks off.

I was planning on searching the threads tonight.

[ The plastic flange is easy off, just remove the hose clamp and install the aluminum replacement] The aluminum replacement being a barbed (?) male on the tank side and a NPT (3/8"s ?) and help by clamp (as opposed to the condensation line from the AC) to the ell to the BV?


Does the line from the tank pull out or did you have to work behind the curtain as polarlyse suggests?

I also agree with OTRA15...discharge, I would angle to the rear...just past horizontal

Nice setup.
Thx

b
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:47 PM   #17
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Thanks all! Yes! It was my freshwater drain. And quite a while it took to drain off, too.

Thanks again.

Rich
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Bob Thanks!!! As the say timing is everything. I've been having some trouble with out petcock valve and have been considering swapping it out for metal before it breaks off.

I was planning on searching the threads tonight.

[ The plastic flange is easy off, just remove the hose clamp and install the aluminum replacement] The aluminum replacement being a barbed (?) male on the tank side and a NPT (3/8"s ?) and help by clamp (as opposed to the condensation line from the AC) to the ell to the BV?


Does the line from the tank pull out or did you have to work behind the curtain as polarlyse suggests?

I also agree with OTRA15...discharge, I would angle to the rear...just past horizontal

Nice setup.
Thx

b
Ours was pretty easy to remove, I had to be careful removing the clamp so I didn't lose any length, no excess at all. I did the replacement on a rather cool day so I used the DW's hair dryer to soften the hose.
The ball valve doesn't improve drainage time very much, I just use a 10' length of plastic tubing and let it drain into the garden overnight.

Bob
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:38 PM   #19
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Bob thanks. Note to self. All good tips!
b
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:26 AM   #20
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Everybody's set up seems different. On mine no hose clamp that I can see. I used two mini pry bars to pull the valve off the tank--valve fits into the hose which stayed inside the tank. Hopefully the valve hosebarb will slide back in or I just made my clog problem into a leak problem!! Doh!!!



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Old 06-05-2016, 11:32 AM   #21
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mins is behind the wheel I took that extra piece of sheet metal off after cutting my hand on it and tossed it .
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Old 06-06-2016, 12:35 PM   #22
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Everybody's set up seems different. On mine no hose clamp that I can see. I used two mini pry bars to pull the valve off the tank--valve fits into the hose which stayed inside the tank. Hopefully the valve hosebarb will slide back in or I just made my clog problem into a leak problem!! Doh!!!

Thanks neighbor! This is a great visual and a good tip on the use of pry bars. I think I'm going to let mine ride for now as I have confirmed the 0/90/180 positions. However if I come across a metal one, I'll probably grab it for a winter project.

Bob
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Old 06-06-2016, 02:19 PM   #23
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My trailer is a new 2016 Sport 22' and the fresh water drain valve is "leaking". I know it would be covered by warranty but getting the trailer down to the dealer for such a cheap part and the "waiting" for them to fix it is not good. I'm thinking of ways to "plug" the end of it until the camping season is over here in Montana...or I might just fix it myself. It baffles me how AS puts such a cheap, really cheap, valve on their trailers no matter what level you choose. Spend 50 or a 100 grand and you get the same junk. While I'm venting...I may as well as throw in cabinet door hardware also! How many times has a cabinet door come off in your hands when you opened it? If it weren't for these obvious "junk parts" this trailer would be "perfect"! Why they "cut these corners" just amazes me!
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:43 PM   #24
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Got lucky. Barb on valve slid in with a little fussin'. No leaks.

Rpatrick, speaking of cheap parts and all, that valve is a little unusual. Most valves of this type are "open" when the handle is aligned with the long axis of the valve and "off" or "closed" when the handle is turned 90 degrees to the long axis. Not so this little gem--its off when the handle is pointed to the left and straight at you and "open" when the handle is turned to the right.

So, a little grumbling, but my H2O system checked out fine and now all I have to do is get all that bleach solution out of my plumbing!!!

PS. Kept the sheet metal. See Ray Eklund's post above. It does protect the valve a bit from flying debris.

Also, always wise to have a cork finished wine bottle on board. Drink wine, then use cork to stopper any leaks.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:22 AM   #25
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. . .
PS. Kept the sheet metal. See Ray Eklund's post above. It does protect the valve a bit from flying debris.
. . .
Thanks for the update. I recommend rounding off the corners of the lower protective "flat" on the sheet metal guard piece. Those squared off corners are sharp as heck !!

A very careless albeit minor detail left unfinished by Airstream.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:34 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Rpatrick16 View Post
My trailer is a new 2016 Sport 22' and the fresh water drain valve is "leaking". I know it would be covered by warranty but getting the trailer down to the dealer for such a cheap part and the "waiting" for them to fix it is not good. I'm thinking of ways to "plug" the end of it until the camping season is over here in Montana...or I might just fix it myself. It baffles me how AS puts such a cheap, really cheap, valve on their trailers no matter what level you choose. Spend 50 or a 100 grand and you get the same junk. While I'm venting...I may as well as throw in cabinet door hardware also! How many times has a cabinet door come off in your hands when you opened it? If it weren't for these obvious "junk parts" this trailer would be "perfect"! Why they "cut these corners" just amazes me!
Wow ... all the way from Clinton to Missoula ??? LOL
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:49 PM   #27
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Wow ... all the way from Clinton to Missoula ??? LOL
Normally you'd be correct, however, as one who "lives in Montana" yourself...you surely are aware that our "season" is short! It's a brand new unit....I didn't buy it to make "return trips" to the dealer during the "season"...but rather to use it! Furthermore, the dealer informed me they were only working on "emergency needs" of others. Yet, it is disheartening when a .50 cent item, on the part of the manufacture, becomes a "distraction" on a $50M purchase. [/I]
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:01 AM   #28
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Normally you'd be correct, however, as one who "lives in Montana" yourself...you surely are aware that our "season" is short! It's a brand new unit....I didn't buy it to make "return trips" to the dealer during the "season"...but rather to use it! Furthermore, the dealer informed me they were only working on "emergency needs" of others. Yet, it is disheartening when a .50 cent item, on the part of the manufacture, becomes a "distraction" on a $50M purchase. [/I]
I don't care if you live in sunny Florida and the AS dealer is 10 minutes down the highway, you are dead-on right. No one should experience down time because of a failed 50 cent part on a 100k unit.

Can you imagine how cheaply made other manufacturers must be?

Popeye
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