Install winterizing drains?

[StarckMad]

Reading a recent thread I realized the 1972 Overlander has potentially 3 drains where as my 1974 Argosy 26' has only one. I'm replacing all the copper with PEX because PO's allowed it to burst in about 8 places. The existing drain is in the bathroom closet. Is that sufficient or should I install one under kitchen sink as well? (We live in California desert but I don't like to say, "That'll never happen to us!") Thanks!

[cwf]

Howdy! If you put your 'drain' at the furthest aft and lowest point in the lines (hot and cold).. then you can raise the bow to help water go aft...You can use the city water inlet to blow air thru the system with all valves open... when water is out you should be able to tell..

[HiJoeSilver]

As mentioned separate hot and cold help. If there are high points between fore and aft, keep that in mind as it will stop water from simply draining and even blowing the lines may not get all the water from sections separated by a high point.

[TG Twinkie]

When I replaced all of the copper in our '74 Argosy 26' I totally eliminated all of the drains and interior pressure regulator.
I use air to blow out the lines, then pump RV antifreeze into the system. We live where it gets to -40 in the winter. Have not had any problems with freezing in over 5 years of use.
I believe in the KISS rule; Keep it simple stupid. The fewer devices in the internal plumbing system the better. Pressure reliefs and regulators fail. When they are inside the coach they are much more difficult to replace.


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[StarckMad]

Thanks CWF, HJS, and Twinkle. Tells me what I want to know. I won't add any more drains but I will leave the standard one in place as I've already plumbed past that.