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Old 09-30-2009, 02:48 PM   #15
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It was 37 degrees this morning in Minneapolis.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:35 PM   #16
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It was 37 degrees this morning in Minneapolis.
Yeah, it's been cooling off here in Phoenix, too. It was 65 degrees yesterday morning.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:21 PM   #17
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Yeah, but aren't you headed to Colorado? You may need to take care of that before you leave here in a couple of weeks...especialy if you are headed up to the mountains after the rally.

You never know.

Shari
We will keeping a eye on the temperatures on our return trip from Fort Collins.
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:48 PM   #18
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OK, another question when winterizing. Where are you putting the antifreeze (scary) and how are you blowing lines?
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:34 PM   #19
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To blow out lines, there is a little adapter (less than $2) that screws on where you connect your water hose (in). It has a Schraeder valve, so you can put an air hose on it. Let it blow for a while, 40 lbs is plenty of pressure.

Then some people use the water pump to suck up antifreeze and fill all the lines, but I personally think that's overkill. If the water's gone, what's to freeze?

It IS necessary to displace all the water in the "P" traps with antifreeze. Those are the sideways P-shaped drain pipes under each and every sink, and tub and they trap water to stop sewer gases from coming back up the drains.

There are a lot of threads on winterizing, use the Google choice in the airforums.com Search menu, they'll pop up. Ferinstance, the terlet needs a bit of extra care, and make sure the black tank is empty!

By the way, the antifreeze for RVs is NOT poisonous, so no worries, dollinks!
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:37 PM   #20
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To blow out lines, there is a little adapter (less than $2) that screws on where you connect your water hose (in). It has a Schraeder valve, so you can put an air hose on it. Let it blow for a while, 40 lbs is plenty of pressure.

Then some people use the water pump to suck up antifreeze and fill all the lines, but I personally think that's overkill. If the water's gone, what's to freeze?

It IS necessary to displace all the water in the "P" traps with antifreeze. Those are the sideways P-shaped drain pipes under each and every sink, and tub and they trap water to stop sewer gases from coming back up the drains.

There are a lot of threads on winterizing, use the Google choice in the airforums.com Search menu, they'll pop up.

By the way, the antifreeze for RVs is NOT poisonous, so no worries, dollinks!

See...there you go teaching me again....Thanks a Bunch Mr. Man
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:42 PM   #21
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OK, another question when winterizing. Where are you putting the antifreeze (scary) and how are you blowing lines?
Some people blow the lines with compressed air and some don't. I did once, years ago, and decided it wasn’t worth the trouble. Granted, I have never winterized an airstream at all – so some will disagree with me on this.

I drain everything as much as possible, set the water heater bypass valves to bypass mode, and then use the winterizing pick-up on the pump in our SOB trailers to pump antifreeze throughout the system. The winterizing pick-up is a plastic (vinyl?) tube that connects into the inlet water line between the water tank and the pump. There are two valves. Close the one to the water tank and open the one to the pick-up tube. Stick the end of the tube into the gallon jug of antifreeze, and run the pump. I run antifreeze through all the water faucets, including the toilet and shower, until it comes out nice and pink. I usually go through 3 gallons of antifreeze. When done, I remove the tube from the jug, and run the pump to get most of the left over antifreeze out of the tube. Then I shut off the pump, close the valve to the pick-up tube, and open the valve to the water tank again. I open one faucet a bit to relieve the pressure, and then close it again for the winter. I pour a good amount of antifreeze into each drain, and fill up the toilet bowl. That way, the toilet seals stay wet all winter, even with the evaporation that’s going to occur. All together, I use 4 gallons of antifreeze. Never had any trouble with freezing and cracking pipes, even in our sub-zero Minnesota winters.

Basically, instead of blowing the lines, I pump an extra gallon of antifreeze through the system. A fair trade in my book.

Chris
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #22
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Ah - see? Aage and I do winterizing completely differently!

The one time I blew the lines, I did not pump antifreeze through the system. Replaced the water pump head the following Spring - the seals had cracked. I attributed that to them drying out over the winter with no liquid in the system.

Basically, you need to find what works best you and go with it.

Chris
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:11 AM   #23
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yeah, there's always more in there than ya might think. its a long, flat run of pipes from the galley to the bathroom, too. one drain point might not be enough.

Even here in Fl I have found water doesn't flow the same in cold weather, opened drain on roof solar panels and I could see they were emptying but with a hard freeze I developed a leak. Maybe I should use the blow air technique just to make sure
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:04 PM   #24
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Can someone post a "modern" plumbing layout. I will be doing it in Pex but most of my concerns relate to fresh tank to pump to check valve, etc. I just want to be sure I leave room where needed, etc. Help is much appreciated.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:16 PM   #25
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I didn't use Pex, but here's part of my plumbing job. I'll try to get out in the trailer and shoot some more pix...



I made a manifold for under the bathroom sink. All valves are of the 1/4 turn ball variety. The 2 braided stainless steel supply lines that are hanging up in the air are for the bathroom sink. The pair that are running behind the plastic console feed the shower, and the pair running down to the floor go behind the shower pan and into the kitchen for the kitchen sink. What you can't see here are the master shut off valves (also ball) that connect the city water-in/system drain manifold I made that's in the bathroom closet. The lines from the manifold shown are all braided stainless steel right up to the fixture.

OK... I'm going to go shoot pix of the rest of the plumbing...
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:48 PM   #26
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Here's the city water/system drain manifold, annotated for your viewing pleasure...

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Old 05-26-2010, 10:08 PM   #27
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When you have a '56 AS, I'm going to guess that a '77 AS is "modern".

So, here's the plumbing layout from the Service Manual of a '77 model:

Oops, I just realized you're talking about the fresh water, this is drains. Oh well, you may want this later...
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:39 PM   #28
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Can someone post a "modern" plumbing layout. I will be doing it in Pex but most of my concerns relate to fresh tank to pump to check valve, etc. I just want to be sure I leave room where needed, etc. Help is much appreciated.
The good thing with PEX & SharkBites is you can easily change out different lengths and "test-fit" things together and keep massaging the system until you get it right how you want it. It's really easy for DIY plumbers who don't always get it right the first time. Wanna know how I know? See pic below ~



Shari
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