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Old 02-16-2013, 11:18 AM   #15
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What Phoenix said...plus....if your Classic is like mine, and I think it is, you will find a small square of galvanized screwed to the bottom of you fresh pan, right below and on the bottom by the white drain valve. I f you remove that panel, you will see a large bung plug in the bottom of the tank. Removal of this bung plug allows for some serious flushing with a hose and nozzle of the tank. Put on your swim suit......you will get very wet.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:18 AM   #16
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Thanks for the replies. I do have that square on the bottom of my belly pan . Is this a metal or plastic plug? I do not have a way of getting the trailer high enough to easily access this bung and keep the tank level enough to fully drain. I can't wait until spring to give this a go.
When I had to use the pump, if city water wasn't available, I did have green water when I flushed the toilet, and there would be a taste in the water for a little while after I got back on city water.
Knowing about this extra drain will greatly help this clean .
Thank you to everyone on this form
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:19 AM   #17
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Red face ..getting to your "bung".

.....ours was right under thru above this here panel.



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Old 02-17-2013, 08:41 AM   #18
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when I had the water leaking out (my first post )this is exactly where it was coming from. Thank you.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:04 AM   #19
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The plug is the same plastic material as the tank, is about 2.5" - 3.0" in diameter and is threaded. They used some putty sealer for the threads at the factory. IIRC, I cleaned it up and used a liberal amount of teflon tape on mine.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:59 AM   #20
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Mac -- algae? Did you see any green? I'd think algae would need sunlight to form and suspect your 2003 tank wouldn't receive any light. My translucent Argosy tank under the front gaucho certainly received enough light that I could have had my own frog colony in there.

Fresh water systems like your tank & plumbing always can have quite the slime buildup on the interior surfaces. Periodic bleach rinses will help hold that down. Don't pour full strength bleach directly through the water inlet -- it'll eat anything metallic, including stainless steel. Your manual will have similar instructions to these I found online at Airstream.com.

Quote:
Originally Posted by airstream.com
Potable water systems require periodic maintenance to deliver a consistent flow of fresh water. Depending on use and the environment the system is subject to, sanitizing is recommended prior to storing and before using the water system after a period of storage. Systems with new components, or ones that have been subjected to contamination, should also be disinfected as follows:

1. Use one of the following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
A) Multiply “gallons of tank capacity” by 0.13; the result is the ounces of bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
B) Multiply “Liters of tank capacity” by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
2. Mix into solution the proper amount of bleach within a container of water.
3. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
4. Open all faucets (Hot & Cold) allowing the water to run until the distinct odor of chlorine is detected.
5. The standard solution must have four (4) hours of contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the solution concentration will allow for contact time of one (1) hour.
6. When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of all sanitizing solution.
7. Remove, rinse and flush the galley in-line filter completely after sanitizing.
NOTE: The sanitizing procedure outlined above is in conformance with the approved procedures of RVIA ANSI A 119.2 and the U.S. Public Health Service.
Chlorine taste afterward? Heck, it couldn't be worse than the chlorine taste I get at some campground hookups. But you can use the old backpacker's trick to lessen the taste from your tank in the aftermath. Only after the recommended contact time is complete, toss several vitamin C tablets in your fill tube next time you fill up with fresh water. That will scavenge some of the taste.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:44 AM   #21
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When I cleaned the screen between the freshwater tank and the suction to the pump, I found it totally blocked with very dark green almost black gunk. When I bought this unit, I have no idea how long the fw tank had water in it.When I opened the white drain cock, nothing came out. I didn't put any into it until a year or so after I bought it. I have my work cut out for me this spring, flushing out this tank and all my water lines. I do this because I love my Air Stream ( and my wife demands I get it done this year)
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:33 PM   #22
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FW Tank Leak

Hello All. On my 1988 25ft Excella, when you take off that metal plate on the bottom of the tanks, there is a drain nipple attached to the FW tank and then a piece of tubing connected that nipple to the plastic drain valve on the outside.
Just an idea but if there is a marginal connection of this small piece of tubing maybe the rough road was enough to make it leak but when on smooth travel or standing still it won't leak.
Anyway good luck on your trip.
Happy camping nm1oqrz
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:41 AM   #23
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Well, my mystery got solved. I filled the fresh water tank to get ready for the UA rally in Eaton Rapids Mi, a few weeks ago. The tank drained out in 5 days. I refilled before we left and was half empty the first night. I filled the tank again the night before the rally and I had a full tank of water when we got to the staging area-- Was I surprised. No leak. That lasted until we parked on the street and---- flood ! Water pouring out and emptied the full tank in only an hour or so. I was depressed because we were parked there for the weekend without any water. After a few drinks of Scotch, I crawled under and took the inspection door off to discover the clear rubber hose was split and when the unit flexed, the hose would part and out would come my water. I went to the hardware store and for $2.36, I got 6 " of hose and two clamps. I only needed 1 1/2" of the hose and --repair made.
The rally crew came to my rescue by hooking up a garden hose to a fire hydrant and filled my fresh water tank. No leak and we had water the rest of the trip. ( Thanks Guys) .
It only took me three years to finally get around to finding out what was wrong and repairing it.
So, a big Thank you to all who helped.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:37 AM   #24
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You are lucky Airstream put an inspection door. My 2008 Classic has no door so I will have to cut through the Rotocast shell. Lovely.
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:03 AM   #25
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You are lucky Airstream put an inspection door. My 2008 Classic has no door so I will have to cut through the Rotocast shell. Lovely.
I thought I understood this thread after reading through it 2 1/2 times.

However now I'm confused again. Where I understand this leak to have occurred is behind an inspection plate, a few inches from the freshwater drain valve. This inspection plate is located on the bottom of the sheet metal box that covers the freshwater and holding tanks. I have that inspection plate on my trailer. Where is the Rotocast shell you have to cut through?

Ken
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:12 AM   #26
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Sounds like the short tube that connects to the outside plastic drain valve had to be replaced by the OP. My water tank sits in a Rotacast shell. The shell protects the water tank from road debris. No access panel is in the shell to service that short hose. My grey and black water tanks are inside aluminum shells. No access panels to service the grey or black valves. Got to cut access holes if I ever have to service the panels. From a maintenance standpoint, a terrible design.

Kelvin
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Sounds like the short tube that connects to the outside plastic drain valve had to be replaced by the OP. My water tank sits in a Rotacast shell. The shell protects the water tank from road debris. No access panel is in the shell to service that short hose. My grey and black water tanks are inside aluminum shells. No access panels to service the grey or black valves. Got to cut access holes if I ever have to service the panels. From a maintenance standpoint, a terrible design.

Kelvin
Thanks for the info. I have always assumed that all recent Airstreams had the same construction in that area. I also have no access to the holding tank dump valves.

Ken
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:49 PM   #28
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Fresh water tank drain valve

Has anyone replaced the fresh water drain valve (petcock)? I have a tandem axle trailer and the drain valve is located behind the right front wheel. There are two screws holding it in place and the small piece of sheet metal as a splash plate. I haven't made any attempts yet to replace it, but how difficult is it? Is the job better left to the shop pros?
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