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Old 05-26-2011, 11:17 AM   #15
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The new ones have a 55 gallon freshwater tank. That's what I have, and I sometimes run out, although with anything larger the graywater tank (40 gallons) would be limiting.

Motorhomes are often equipped with considerably larger tanks, and if the frame and axle could take the weight, I would imagine it would be a convenience for Airstreams to have them too.

A fact to consider is that in the 1960s, campgrounds typically had water hookups at each site and grey water was commonly dumped into catholes or onto the ground. It's now rare to encounter water hookups except at sites that have a sewer connection. The Minnesota state parks removed all their existing campsite water hookups to discourage graywater dumping, and now just have water at central locations.
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:17 AM   #16
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60 gallons or more.
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack46 View Post
How do you "equalize" grey and black tanks?
Here's one way.

A hole can be drilled in the top of the inlet elbow on the gray tank. A pipe inserted into that hole, not quite to the bottom. The pipe connected through a filter to a water pump with a pressure switch , like the one used for fresh water. The outlet from the water pump connected to a "T" placed between the toilet shut off valve and the toilet inlet.

After some gray water has been accumulated, close the fresh water valve to the toilet, and turn the pump on. When the toilet is flushed, the pump will run, and water will be drawn from the gray tank rather than from the fresh tank.

This will make space in the gray tank and save fresh water.
You don't need to buy a top of the line pump for this. If it makes a little noise, so what.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
I think what the OP means is to place the cap on the drain outlet and then open both dump valves. The grey water will flow out of the grey tank and into the black tank. Before dumping both valves must be closed and before you remove the cap a bucket is used to catch the small amount of waste water that will be trapped between the dump valves and the drain outlet cap.
Trailers without grey tanks can do the same by capping the outlet and opening the black tank valve essentially turning the black tank into a grey tank as well.
The problem lies if the tank(s) are allowed to overfill, cross contaminated water can back up in to the shower pan. Yecch.
“Jack46” and “gherer”, poster “wasagachris” has answered your question about my “equalizing” of grey into black tanks accurately.

I will add a little detail that after the manifold cap is put on, the manifold should be flooded by FIRST opening the grey valve, then open the black valve to allow the higher level of grey water to flow into the black tank. It’s then important to close the black valve FIRST while grey water is flowing into the black tank to prevent manifold contamination with black water, then close the grey valve second. That way when you dump you will only have to deal with the small amount of grey water spillage when the manifold cap is removed.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:35 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by markdoane

You don't want to go too big.

If you always run with the tanks 1/2 full you will increase the probability of slosh induced sway.

Or get a tank with baffles. Or two smaller tanks.
That's a good point - I wonder if they have open cell foam inserts for water tanks like fuel cells
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #20
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Weight is a concern also. 1 US gallon = 8.35 lbs. So a 50 gal tank weighs 417.5 lbs when full.
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:09 PM   #21
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Partly Filled Water Tank

IMHO fill it completely. The main reason is sloshing. If you have 30 gallons slopping around a 50 gallon tank, that is about 250 lbs. moving front to back or side to side. That alone, especially as low as the center of gravity is, shouldn't be enough to rattle your trailer off the coupler or tip it over, but with a big pothole or a swerve to avoid a deer in the road... you don't need more instability. Even if all it does is pop open the overhead cabinets and scatter Cheerios all over the floor, why risk it?

My white tank is filled to the brim when I leave. If I have to Walmart camp, I can still have a shower - and I'll fill my Jerry Can once or twice with filtered water to top off the white tank again. When I hit a campground I dump the gray and black completely.

Extra water could come in handy with a radiator leak or a close encounter with a skunk.

Equalizing tanks? I plug the shower drain, take a shower and use a small pump to move the water to the toilet drain. With a dishpan, you can put your dishwater down the toilet too. "Pre" processing as opposed to post.

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Old 05-26-2011, 04:10 PM   #22
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Hard to have too much. I wouldn't let holding tank capacity limit me. (And thanks to all for the "equalization" concept).
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:25 PM   #23
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Any thoughts on grey flushing in the loo?
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:31 PM   #24
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So if I had fore and aft fresh tanks I could pump water between them to adjust my hitch weight
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:37 PM   #25
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Quote:
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So if I had fore and aft fresh tanks I could pump water between them to adjust my hitch weight
That's what aircraft do. They move fuel to balance the airplane through flight.
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