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Old 04-14-2010, 09:18 AM   #15
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I used one roll of 50'on my Ambassador with some left over. I paid the the $54 for the crimping tool but if I had to do it over again I would buy the cheaper $24 one that you use vise grips with. It will fit in tighter places than the big tool. Also Shark bites are good to use in tight places and can be used on either copper or pex or to connect the two. I have had no leaks and also just finished my guest house above our outside garage with pex. One of the best things is it stretches somewhat if it freezes. Unlike copper...
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:01 AM   #16
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I have been reading this forum with great interest. Thanks for all the GREAT TIPS & INFO!! I am in the process of re-plumbing our 1970 Globetrotter, WHAT A MESS due to the P/O not winterizing properly, or Oasis representing they winterized it? At any rate I have noticed 3 different size copper pipe,the sinks & shower have 1/4" The supply line has 1/2" and the H/W heater has 3/8". Can I use 3/8" or 1/2" on the entire re-plumb? I intend on using PEX with Falir Fittings. Any and all suggestions are appreciated!!

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Old 04-16-2010, 11:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by gnmostream View Post
I have been reading this forum with great interest. Thanks for all the GREAT TIPS & INFO!! I am in the process of re-plumbing our 1970 Globetrotter, WHAT A MESS due to the P/O not winterizing properly, or Oasis representing they winterized it? At any rate I have noticed 3 different size copper pipe,the sinks & shower have 1/4" The supply line has 1/2" and the H/W heater has 3/8". Can I use 3/8" or 1/2" on the entire re-plumb? I intend on using PEX with Falir Fittings. Any and all suggestions are appreciated!!

Thanks,

Gnmostream
If you're starting completely over, just go with the 1/2" all the way through. That way you don't have to buy multiple sizes of pipe and fitting. I loved working with the PEX, found it to be quite easy and even fun. Good luck!

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Old 04-16-2010, 11:29 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by gnmostream View Post
... At any rate I have noticed 3 different size copper pipe,the sinks & shower have 1/4" The supply line has 1/2" and the H/W heater has 3/8". Can I use 3/8" or 1/2" on the entire re-plumb? ...

Gnmostream
You know, I've wondered that same thing. Why 3/8ths for the hot water run, and 1/2 for the cold? were they just saving a few bucks? or is their some "plumbing theory" that explains it?
It would seem to me that the simplicity of using the same pipe throughout would override any cost savings.
The faucet risers, I understand. most, even in houses, are linked through 1/4" lines or flexible pipes these days. But 2 different supply lines...I don't get.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:47 AM   #19
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You know, I've wondered that same thing. Why 3/8ths for the hot water run, and 1/2 for the cold? were they just saving a few bucks? or is their some "plumbing theory" that explains it?
It would seem to me that the simplicity of using the same pipe throughout would override any cost savings.
The faucet risers, I understand. most, even in houses, are linked through 1/4" lines or flexible pipes these days. But 2 different supply lines...I don't get.
I thought about that as well, but since I had to re-plumb everything, I just went with 1/2" everywhere. The swivels at the faucets and water heater step-down to the appropriate size, so I don't have a lot of extra reducer bushings and whatnot.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:04 PM   #20
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Mine is the same way, I noticed the multiple sizes of pipe when I was planning it out.

Another odd thing they do is that in the bathroom there are two 'faucets' - one is the sink faucet, the other is the shower, but instead of a faucet it has a hose that goes up to the handheld shower .They are both mounted in the vanity by the sink (which is a whole lot better than putting the shower stuff in the wall). Anyway, the hot and cold runs to each of these faucets take a different route - they both come up from the floor and one goes around the back of the sink, one goes around the front. The faucets are right next to each other! It seems like they could have just run one hot and one cold and split them off when they got right under the faucets and used half as much pipe!

Either way, I think I have been saved by using compression fittings to replace my bad copper with some PEX and leave the stuff that isn't broken alone for now. But I'm sure there will be a big PEX project in this trailer's future, just hopefully not this season!
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #21
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the kiss of death, part two

stef, the first time we met, I told you i was always "doing something" to the trailer. Your comment was: Since we got 'er done, we haven't had to do anything-just get in it and go. (paraphrased, of course). So, the freeze got ya, and now part two---"for now"

my son and i plumbed a semi tractor trailer that was converted into living quarters and car hauler (makes the airstream toy hauler look like a toy, itself) using pex and the crimp type connectors using professional tools. No troubles at all. Except-you may wish to experiement to see if you possess enough hand strength to complete a crimp-especially if using the small tool with vice grips.
they could be a hand full (yea, a pun!)
ol' torx-less bill
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:37 PM   #22
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I know, I jinxed myself, didn't I? Serves me right! But I did have several years of enjoying the trailer without having to do anything to it, and the freezing was my own danged fault
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:26 PM   #23
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I found that replumbing the whole system at once allowed me to pull pex piping thru small holes and openings rather than replacing a piece here and there. Once it is done, you only have to worry about draining the hot water heater and toilet for the winter. The small crimp tool will let you get into smaller places and it is less expensive . Any channel lock pliers or vice grip will crimp the band. There also is a "profesional crimp band that has a clip on it rather than a compression fitting. These are easier to remove if you need to. I have never had a crimp connection leak UNLESS you crimp it TOO much. Do not use any size smaller than 1/2" becuase PEX pipe size is my OD not ID. You may consider running 3/4" for longer main runs if you have a run over 20'.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:19 PM   #24
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After spending the whole (censored) weekend working with the existing copper tubing and compression fittings in tight places I'M DOING PEX. Twice I got it water tight, got the skirt on the sink/shower thing and something started dripping. One thought about the different sizes in pipe- in a residence, you have diminishing sizes til you get to the fixture, to keep up flow and pressure. I wonder if in the AS it has something to do with the pump, and how much volume the pump has to pump? Any plumbers out there who can answer this?
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