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Old 03-20-2011, 03:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
hippiefish,

Your first paragraph above perfectly describes the effect of solar heating on your outdoor supply hose.
I agree! With exception of the fact that I drained it after dark last night and tested before the sun this morning. The moon wasn't THAT bright last night. Ha!

The other part that doesn't support the solar theory is this afternoon I did the test with auxiliary hose connector built into the fresh water inlet of the AS and it was not hot or even a bit warm. If it was solar heat or heat from my UV filter, wouldn't it have come from the auxiliary faucet?
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Old 03-20-2011, 03:52 PM   #16
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I wonder what happens if you leave the bypass valve open...
I think Mojo is onto it; have you checked to be sure your hot water heater bypass valve is closed? (This is the valve you open when you are winterizing, and close when Spring finally arrives).

Pat
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore

I think Mojo is onto it; have you checked to be sure your hot water heater bypass valve is closed? (This is the valve you open when you are winterizing, and close when Spring finally arrives).

Pat
Pat - I'm a full timer so I've never winterized. How else can I identify the bypass valve? Would it be inside the AS or outside accessed through the hot water heater access panel? Do you know off hand? If not, I can do the research.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:43 AM   #18
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The valves for my water heater are reached from inside the bathroom cabinet; I usually remove the top drawer and pull out the second drawer; then I can reach in and turn them. The pipes are laid out in an H shape.

On mine, there are three valves above the water heater: one each for the cold-in and hot-out. There is a third, kind of between these, that is the bypass. To winterize, you close the cold-in and hot-out and open the bypass. In the spring, open the cold-in and hot-out and close the bypass.

I could see that if the bypass were left open, then hot could get into the cold side of your piping.

But if you have never winterized, then this shouldn't have been a new problem. Oh, well.

Good luck. Pat
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #19
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Sorry for the delayed response. Things have been crazy so I haven't had a chance to explore the bypass valve configuration yet. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend. I'll post the results for sure.
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:44 AM   #20
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I finally got a chance to explore the bypass valve. It looks like the bypass is not open. I've attached pics for second opinions.

From feeling around the lines, the cold in is actually warmer than the rest of the cold lines. Could it be backing up out of the hot water heater into the cold in until it reaches the main cold supply? The additional temp would create additional pressure from that direction and supply hot water until the temperature/pressure equalizes and then it pulls normal cold supply? Just thinking out loud.

Here's two pics
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Old 04-02-2011, 03:32 PM   #21
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tx, have you tried to tighten the center valve (1st pic)? You can't go by visual - see if you can righty-tighty the valve at all.

Pat
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:50 PM   #22
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In my limited experience, every water valve of that style that I have seen, copper or plastic, the tap head shows the flow.

By that I mean, if the tap head is in line with the pipe it is in, the tap is open. If the tap is at a right angle to the pipe it is installed in, it is closed.

Having said that, I can't get a feel of how the taps are set from the views you show. My mind can't see what's happening.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:58 PM   #23
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My taps look like that and they open and close like a regular tap, not a 90degree type. You have to screw it down and up. That's why I wanted the guy to put his hand on it and feel it to be closed (or open).

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Old 04-03-2011, 08:08 AM   #24
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Hand checked them. All three in the "H" shape are the 90 degree style. Said another way, the direction of the handle indicates flow. All three move smoothly and don't feel like there is blockage that my cause a less than perfect shutoff when closed or restricted flow when open.

Problem remains a mystery at this point!
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:08 AM   #25
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Man, too bad. We're running out of quick and dirty ideas.

Pat
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:35 AM   #26
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I have experienced the same issue in my trailer. I believe it is because warm water has backed into the cold water lines during the heating of the water in the water heater. When you first turn on a tap water will begin to flow before the water pump turns on. I believe that some of this water is flowing from the water heater or the lines going into it. My water heater is located in the area of the kitchen under the sink and I notice the warm water immediately in the kitchen, but it takes a few seconds to get to the bathroom which is in the rear of the trailer. It only lasts for a second or two and is not a concern to me.
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:05 PM   #27
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We just had this problem in our house and the problem was in the tub configuration. Its an old fashioned tub filler/shower combo. Think victorian home, clawfoot tub.

Anyway what happened was that my daughter left the cold and hot water taps on, but the tub spout where they mix and come out of was closed. This allowed the hot water to flow into the cold side. Then if we turned on the cold water in the sink it flowed hot for a while. Does this make sense? Is it possible that your faucets are actually on but appear off because your shower valve (or your tub filler) if in the closed position? Do you have a cutoff valve to conserve water that could be on?
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