Holding Tank to Water Pump Question..One 'small' step
I'd like to replace the plumbing with Pex pipe and the PO seems to have disconnected the plumbing. I would only like to go as far as from the holding tank to the water pump this weekend..(one small step at a time) Is the attached pdf sketch correct? I've shown a bypass for the water pump..do I need it? Are the shut off valves shown in the correct place? Thank you in advance, if you have time to reply. There is a pdf attached and an image of the existing situation.
Hi Michelle,There is a city water inlet on the opposite end of the trailer, and water inlet on the holding tank side of the trailer. I focused the diagram on the items between the holding tank and the pump, and didn't show the inlet on the holding tank.
There should be a suction line directly from the tank to the pump. The output of the pump should tie, TEE, into the trailer water system.
If your only access to the tank is at the drain, rather than a separate line to the bottom of the tank entering at the top, you can use it but you want to be sure the drain cock will not allow air into the suction side of the pump.
I can't see any reason fore the bypass you have drawn around the pump.
__________________ WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6 2004 Excursion 4x4 1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
1976 25' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2006
On my '76 the suction line comes off the bottom of the tank . I installed a T with a drain valve and a sreened filter before entering the inlet of the pump . The suction line is hose with clamps . From the pump outlet it T's into the cold water line . I also installed a shut off in this hose. The reason for the shut off is to ease the strain on the pump . Technically the pump will stop the city water from going into the holding tank but they sometimes do not , depending on the pressure . Those are the only two valves involved. Be sure the suction hose is stiff enough for suction or it will crush with the pump going. Good luck
While you are in there, I suggest installing a three-way valve at the connection to the tank for easy winterizing. There is a kit available for that which comes with the valve, and some 3/8" tubing off the tee so you can pull the antifreeze right from the jug as opposed to dumping it in your tank.
I haven't winterized yet..since this is my first month having the trailer. Does antifreeze also stay in the holding tank over winter, or does it get by passed? If there is no need for antifreeze in the holding tank, that sounds like a good idea to install this tee, to let antifreeze into the system and bypass the holding tank. I hope I'm understanding correctly.
My plumbing design is to fill the fresh water tank using the existing fill tube. I also plan to have backflow prevention or "check" valves on the shore water fill line and downstream of the water tank. In my experience, plumbing codes require a check valve on connnections to public water. I suppose you could accomplish the same general purpose with a wheel or ball valve downstream of the water tank, but I would inevitably forget to close it... and pressure test my fill cap.
Thank you..I've connected the pump to the holding tank, and the plumbing to the kitchen is in place..I'll have it running this weekend. I'll post pictures on my introduction thread. Thanks for all the advice. It has all been very helpful...Trailer Life!