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Old 10-12-2018, 03:45 PM   #1
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1985 29' Sovereign
Hayward , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Freshwater drain plug

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I have a 1984 Sovereign. The freshwater drain plug has issues. It started leaking, after ten years of no problems. (I don't live where it freezes, so I sort of ignored the freshwater.) I removed one wheel to get better access and saw what looked like a white plastic valve. It was missing one side of the plastic casting so you could turn it. When I tried to turn it with the remaining "ear," the ear broke off. Fine. I tried grasping it carefully with pliers and ... the part I grasped broke off. I think the plastic is just aged. (I had a Volvo that was great, but the plastic parts were crap. That's another story ...)

Reading a few other posts here, I think I have a handle on some of what's involved, but I'm just not sure.

There are two Phillips screws that appear to hold the valve in place, but with the screws gone, the valve body merely moves a bit. Feels like it's attached to something on the inside, but won't let go. I didn't force it too much because I don't want to aggravate the situation and break something else.


Will I have to open the water tank from inside the trailer to release what's holding this valve in place? Anyone else had experience with this condition? Given the way the plastic is crumbling, I have to believe that I'm not the first person to encounter old plastic in the fresh water tank system.
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:45 PM   #2
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2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
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Hi

Given that the AS has been around for a while, there is no guarantee that what is on it is what came from the factory "way back when". It's a good starting point to assume that it is, but you can never be 100% sure.

Is the tank plastic as well? If so, it may be in the same sad shape as your magic valve.... ( = you likely will be replacing it).

Best bet is that the valve is being held in by hard water deposits. That's not a lot of help since it's still held in there.... The screws probably go through the tank to a backup plate inside the tank. It should come off when the screws come out.

One option - drill it out. You may be able to fish the bits inside out through the hole. If not, you are no worse off as far as pulling the tank. ( = you still need to do it). Once the tank is off, there should be an access in the top that needs to come off. Then you can get at the stupid plate.

Bob
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:36 PM   #3
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1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riesdad View Post
<<snip>>

There are two Phillips screws that appear to hold the valve in place, but with the screws gone, the valve body merely moves a bit. Feels like it's attached to something on the inside, but won't let go. I didn't force it too much because I don't want to aggravate the situation and break something else.


Will I have to open the water tank from inside the trailer to release what's holding this valve in place? Anyone else had experience with this condition? Given the way the plastic is crumbling, I have to believe that I'm not the first person to encounter old plastic in the fresh water tank system.
Those two screws just hold the valve flange to the tank cover. On the backside of the plastic valve there is a nipple that inserted into a flexible pipe. It is held in by a hose clamp. That clamp is larger than the hole in the tank cover, so it cannot move outward.

I suggest that you pull the valve outward just enough to allow a hacksaw blade to slide in between the flange and tank cover, then saw through the plastic nipple that is on the interior side of the valve. Then you will see what you are dealing with. If the pipe is original, it most likely will need to be replaced.

Inside the tank cover the pipe from the tank has a couple bends that you will have to deal with, therefore access is required. You have two choices; drop the tank cover or cut an access opening. The access opening requires less demolition. And any future repairs will be easier.

After removing the old valve you will be able to move the drain pipe inward and look into the hole in the tank cover to get an idea of how big the access opening needs to be. You will be able to see and probe to know where the tank is, and know exactly where to NOT cut. (mine was less than 6" if memory serves me). Cut the opening in the bottom of the cover only, not the side. Use the existing hole for a new valve. I used some scrap metal, slightly larger than the opening I cut, to make an access cover.
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