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Old 04-23-2015, 06:35 PM   #21
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Well I've got 5 days use and 1000 miles of highway on my epoxy leak repair. So far, so good. Knock, knock.

I'll fix it right when I get back home.

David
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:23 PM   #22
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That is better than I figured. My attempts at a topical repair have never worked out so well.

Glad it is working for you and it got you camping!


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Old 04-24-2015, 05:56 AM   #23
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That is better than I figured. My attempts at a topical repair have never worked out so well.

Glad it is working for you and it got you camping!


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My attempts at a topical repair never work either.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:42 AM   #24
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In a very similar situation.1990 Excella 34' side bath. 12V pump cracked = leak. temp remove pump and fill in with short PVC. Now water flows steadily and has filled fresh water tank. Where the fresh water tank drain? And I'll block off my temp pump PVC. Any other ??? Appreciate all the assistance.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:53 AM   #25
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I am glad that you were able to fix the leak. BTW what epoxy did you use?

I have had very good luck with JB Weld. Water tank fittings/pressure etc.
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Old 04-28-2015, 10:05 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jim & Mitzi View Post
In a very similar situation.1990 Excella 34' side bath. 12V pump cracked = leak. temp remove pump and fill in with short PVC. Now water flows steadily and has filled fresh water tank. Where the fresh water tank drain? And I'll block off my temp pump PVC. Any other ??? Appreciate all the assistance.
There is (was) a check valve in your pump which keeps the water from the city water input from back filling the water tank. When you removed the pump and put a bypass pipe in, you removed the check valve. You need to simply cap off the outlet hose from the pump to keep it from happening.

I don't know where the tank drain is on your rig.
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:46 PM   #27
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Yep what very knowledgeable idroba said. Taking out the 12v pump removes the "block", or check valve that seperates the city water pressure from 12v water pressure. Both sources can run the rest of the plumbing system.

So you gotta cap off the 12v output line preventing water from flowing down the "suction" tube to your fresh water tank.

The drain on my 86 thirty four footer is on the curb side, between the middle and last tire. Caution. It is the world's cheapest plastic ball valve. Turn the handle to drain the tank and your valve will likely break off. At least all the water will drain out of your fresh tank! And since you don't have a 12v pump right now, who cares? Just camp with hook ups.

I would suggest you soak the valve with penetrating oil before trying to open it. Spray it down, go to bed, and try to open it in the morning. This cheap plastic ball valve is pretty easy to replace.

So far my cheap epoxy fix is holding fine. I used Devcon epoxy formulated for plastic so the package said. I rubbed it with 320 grit sandpaper the best I could. I cleaned the fitting very well with alcohol, and it was a dry fitting as I had blown air through the lines.

David
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Old 04-29-2015, 07:52 AM   #28
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I broke the flange mounted valve on my '89. Same curb side location...really difficult to get at between the tires. I think the valve is mounted on the belly pan around the plastic tank. so there is an extension from the tank to the pan. I can't remember exactly how I attached to the pipe on the tank except that I had a piece of flexible hose and clamps to make the transition and then I added an elbow and short length of 1/2"pipe to bring it forward in front of the tire; used a plastic ball valve to cap it. This needed a couple of hangers on the frame to stabilize the extension. Easier to access and also a way to fill the Dog's dish! Even the new ball valve was a real bear to open after a period of non-use but at least it was away from the tank.
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