Experience replacing overpressure relief valve?

[flyflinger]

I'm convinced I have a leaking 'overpressure relief valve', the notorious 000111 valve referred to by Andy at Inland RV. Mine is in a '77 Globetrotter, tucked under the lower deck of the vanity, but above the plywood subfloor, in a very difficult-to-access spot. Can't go in underneath because of the rear bumper/waste plumbing, nor easily from above due to vanity bottom and adjacent black water tank .
Does anyone have experience replacing that valve without having supported the sweated connections surrounding the valve. I think I can get a wrench on the flare connection, but am worried I'll make things worse by breaking a joint.

What have your experiences been regarding the strength of those sweated connections?

[idroba]

In my personal opinion, the overpressure valve on the cold water inlet is unnecessary to begin with (ducks). Cap it off and go without it. I have never been in any situation where the inlet pressure was so high the valve opened in any event. The hose you use to connect the trailer to the supply will more than likely fail before the valve pops off.

Again, I state that this is my opinion only.

[dwightdi]

Put an in line water pressure regulator in the line where it attaches to the water hydrant. Then you are safe and do not need the over pressure relief valve to function. Turn off the hydrant, when ever you leave the trailer in the park while you do some local exploring.

[flyflinger]

So, the valve is under the vanity, with a flare nut on the outlet, and the valve threaded into a 'T' fitting. Got the flare nut off with a little elbow banging, scrapes, and muttering. Then, I found out there was insufficient clearance to spin out the valve without it binding against another copper pipe against the trailer wall . All immovable....

The moral of the story seems to be to live with some little inconveniences, such as a slightly leaking overpressure relief valve.