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Old 04-19-2009, 05:53 PM   #1
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epoxy putty leak fix?

I have a leak somewhere between the city water inlet and the pressure regulator...which is in an absolutely inaccessible area. I'd have to completely remove the bathroom to get at it...which I don't have time to do before the next outing.
So I'm looking for temporary measures to get through until I can do just that. (standard-issue rear floor rot should be properly fixed; bathroom fixtures should be re-finished, etc...just no time for that, now).

It might be possible for me to get a hand on the leak. (no way to get 2 on it...let alone any tools). If that turns out to be the case, is it possible, or even likely, that wrapping it with epoxy putty might fix it? Or should I not even attempt?

the only other option is to cut and splice pipes, where I can reach them...which would by-pass the city inlet area, and I'd be able to use on-board water only. which is do-able.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:11 PM   #2
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Chuck,

I have used a product called "Copper Bond" to make repairs in tight spots and can attest to its quality. It was designed to replace solder in copper plumbing. If you can make a sleeve out of copper, coat the cleaned pipe and bond the sleeve over the problem it likely would be permanent. I have not used the epoxy putty you refer to but it should work also, I would make sure to scuff sand the copper clean in the repair area regardless of the method you pick.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:12 PM   #3
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I don't know for sure if you can or not, but can you get at it from the belly pan? Either by cutting a window in the belly pan or rolling back a section.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:35 PM   #4
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nope. its above the floor...so, not accessible from underneath.

this is the bathroom, located in the very back of the trailer. the city inlet comes in under that shower seat. no way to reach the leak area, except by reaching through the lav cabinet. imagine kneeling on the floor, facing the shower pan/seat...might be able to get your left hand under there. (but probably not. ). a really stupid arrangement, imo, but that's what I got.

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Old 04-20-2009, 07:45 AM   #5
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after sleeping on it, now I'm wondering if I ought to just take it all apart, and just fix it right. depends on just how difficult that is...anyone ever removed/reinstalled this particular bathroom?
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:13 AM   #6
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Chuck,
In the next couple of weeks I'll be making the same repairs to our 73 safari. I recently followed the path of other forum members and bought a gray tank so I have to redo my plumbing. What I'm saying is I'll be taking my bath apart along with refinishing and all the good stuff that goes along with a bath rebuild . Maybe we can help each other out.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:14 AM   #7
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Can you reach either side of the leak along the pipe in question? If you can reach each end through different access points consider cutting out the pipe and replacing it with plactic pipe and Sea Tech fittings. Even if you have to remove the city connection as a means of feeding a preassembled section in and making the final connection under the sink.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:22 AM   #8
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This is exactly how I would approach it.

Get yourself a small pipe cutter, and feed though a piece of Pex or PVC (I prefer Pex).

$20 at Lowes and an hour, and your done.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:55 AM   #9
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yeah, I was thinking of that...but I don't think I can. can't reach in there, and there is so much stuff tee'd in where I can reach, the whole kit-n-k'boodle would have to be re-worked if I cut it out there. Here's a pic that I posted in another thread, looking into the vanity cabinet. The leak is somewhere to the east of the pressure regulator.
the only way I can even see what is there, and how its linked, is to stick a camera in there, blind, and take a bunch of shots, and look at the pictures.
what you can't see in the pic is that along the right-hand border, just out of the pic, is a wooden "leg" that supports the shower seat. so the right-edge of the regulator is out of reach.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaumpine View Post
Chuck,
In the next couple of weeks I'll be making the same repairs to our 73 safari. I recently followed the path of other forum members and bought a gray tank so I have to redo my plumbing. What I'm saying is I'll be taking my bath apart along with refinishing and all the good stuff that goes along with a bath rebuild . Maybe we can help each other out.
Aaron
sure thing! I'd love to collaborate. what did you get for a tank?
although I may not be able to do much beyond cheer-leading for you. I've been wanting to do a gray tank for years...just never had the time. Now I've got the time, but my funding has been cut off. go figure.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:02 AM   #11
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oh, yeah, one other thing: I was chatting with a home-depot guy, and he didn't recommend shark-bites for the soft copper tubing, as it often isn't perfectly round...may not seat right. suggested compression fittings, instead.
thoughts...comments?
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:37 AM   #12
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I thought about building the tank myself but in the end I took the advice from others and bought a thirty gallon from ppl. The part # is H664. As of yet I don't have it installed. I'm trying to make a trip to Arkansas in June whether I'm done completely or not so I'm trying to wrap the front up in case I run out of time. I still need to do change my axles and tires before we go.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:03 AM   #13
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I was thinking of that one, too. It should fit just behind the axles...then you can run the drain line down the street-side, up against the belly pan...90 it over to the existing dump fitting, which can probably be extended down in some fashion. It'll hang a little low, but not nearly as much as how they make new trailers.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:21 PM   #14
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All my info came from Marcus. Utee94. He has pics too. Thanks again Marcus.
I'll try to be better at the pictures when I start my second phase. I plan on having both lines terminating together from the side like on more modern units.
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