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Old 04-20-2009, 02:12 PM   #15
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got a link? don't see a user photo gallery for him...
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:43 PM   #16
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will this work?

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Old 04-20-2009, 02:44 PM   #17
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It won't. Let me try something else.
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:45 PM   #18
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Try this out.

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Old 04-22-2009, 08:20 AM   #19
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Ok, back to the pipes: it was a split in the copper...the length of pipe that comes straight up from outside. It was connected w/ a flare fitting. I hate flare fittings. notoriously difficult to remove. Last time I tried to get one out one-handed and blind, I just twisted the soft copper pipe up into a twisted mess, thinking it was unthreading. .
I gave this one a shot, and got lucky. Then I removed the drop-ear elbow that forms the city inlet on the outside, and pulled it all straight down and out. (of course, I had to cut the screws that were holding the elbow in place with a dremel, as they were so rusted and rounded off. . ).
next, I tried to un-thread the regulator. It was connected to the copper via a sweated 1/2" to 1/2"fip fitting. That joint wouldn't budge, but the torquing actually broke the next sweat joint down the line. that must've been a barely passable joint. didn't leak before, but it must not have been very strong. anyway, with that solder joint gone, I was able to wiggle the whole thing out. The only problem is that the stub that remains is too short (and also slightly bent) to get a push-fitting on, so I'm going to attempt to un-solder it and replace with a longer piece of copper. If that works, the rest should be cake. If not, I'll have to re-work the sink/shower faucet connections.
will post pics later.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:13 PM   #20
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Thumbs up success!!

sharkbites ROCK!

Ok, the attempt at de-soldering that bent stub was somewhat successful...however, instead of just the stub coming off...the other end of the fitting came loose, too. just no way to heat only one joint on a tee, without heating them all, I guess. So I took the whole thing off. there appeared to be just enough of a stub left sticking out of the next tee over to the left, so I cleaned up the pipe ends as best I could, and tried to replace with a sharkbite tee. It seemed to hold...so I assembled the pex to threaded connectors with the check valve, and worked it into place. I thought maybe I wouldn't need an elbow, but these big fittings do take up alot of linear real-esate. by the time they're all linked, the corner to bend was too sharp. no problem...I picked up a 90, just in case.

outside, I had to drill a new hole to mount the drop-ear...that was a pain. But once I got it all put together, the only leak was in the threaded fittings with the check valve. (very slight "weep"). no problem to give them another half a turn, as the push-connector side can still spin free...and I can reach everything now. and even if I couldn't, it'll all pop out of there very easily.

the reason the original vertical section of pipe had a split:
well, the check valve that was in place in there, burried and inaccessible, hasn't worked since I've owned the trailer. As a temporary measure, I bought a replacement, and instead of installing it where its supposed to go, I just threaded it onto the drop-ear elbow at the inlet. that worked...but the flaw is that it holds water in that riser, and that water won't drain, until the check valve is removed. I did this as part of my winterizing routine for the last couple of seasons, but this past fall, I got sidetracked, and we had a very early cold-spell. mid-winter temps before thanksgiving. so...live and learn.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:21 PM   #21
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It's great that you got this fixed Chuck! It looks good too. :-)
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