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03-11-2018, 01:48 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Laguna Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 6
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Dwindling hot water
We have a 2018 27’FC which is parked full time on our property while we renovate our home. Dedicated 30 AMP hookup, water and septic tie in. We have been in it full time since November of 17. Lately we are experiencing an issue where the hot water has become luke warm and the pressure has gone from good to trickle. We use the electric to run the hot water and no changes on the water pressure from the house.
Is there some kind of filter or something or ???? I have checked everything from the water point of entry to the water heater to the tap/shower. Ideas?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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03-11-2018, 02:09 PM
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#2
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Home of Vortex tuning
2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Spearfish
, South Dakota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 614
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This thread will take you to another, both will look at your symptoms.
I posted my fix in the second one, good luck.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...er-161376.html
__________________
"Chip Tank" is in Westwood Ca.
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03-12-2018, 11:12 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Laguna Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 6
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Thank you for the information . Since we are still under warranty I am going to take to the dealer and let them investigate/repair. Also discussing with wife upgrading to a tankless regardless as it seems a no brainer particularly with our situation.
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03-12-2018, 12:25 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
2015 28' International
2013 28' International
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 234
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I have experience with what you are describing, in my instance, we had a very calcium rich "hard" water supply and within 2 months the yellow winterization valve (there is a very small screen inside the valve) was completely clogged up with scale. Only way to fix it was to replace the valve, water temp is hot and flow is correct now. I noticed that your AS is new, but this is still worth checking as ASLA will be the first to say your water supply is dirty and deny warranty repairs.
Good luck!
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03-12-2018, 02:48 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Yup. Water in SoCal area is quite hard, and will produce lots of mineral deposits, as well as carry silt, sand particles, and other debris into the system. You might consider adding a whole-house filter cartridge with a fine element to your supply line to reduce deposits. Don't be shocked when that nice clean white filter element turns a horrid brown in a few months...and slows water flow again.
Since you are in a nice warm beach area, the filter can go anywhere in the line to your AS.
Also check faucet strainers/aerators and shower heads for built-up 'stuff' that will block water flow.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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03-13-2018, 11:30 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Laguna Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 6
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Thanks for the tips! I have the AS hooked up behind a whole house soft water system plus chlorine/fluoride filters. Debris isn’t an issue. I took several steps tonight: removed the redundant pressure valve at the hose bib feeding the AS. Checked all screens indoors - none in the shower/ sink and bath were good. I shutoff water/ let pressure off at sink and then drained the tank. Water was pretty damn hot! I also tested the temperature relief valve (which drained the tank a lot faster) and then removed it as well. No debris from tank and valve operated properly. Reconnected everything, flipped the electric heat switch on and waited for tank to fill and heat. I have better pressure for sure but hot water turns cold after running for 30 seconds. I assume the mixing valve is the indicated issue?
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03-13-2018, 11:49 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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I’d bet mixing valve may have an issue, assuming your water heater has one.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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03-14-2018, 05:12 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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Woah!
Foiled Again here. Somwthing went wrong with my tankless..... 13 MONTHS after install... with a one year warranty. It was and Atwood and guess what? They have stopped making them and no longer stock parts! I needed a part equivalent to a sail switch, and my mexhanic friend thought he could kludge together a substitute. I think dometic bought the company in the interim.
Anyway I had not been ecstatic with the overall performance of that tank.... too little play between warm and scalding... and too much water wasted waiting for heat.
I bit the bullet and got a conventional tank and installed it. If you MUST get one, buy the brand LEWSTER recommends, but also have your water tested, and if it is hard,get a complete water softening system, not just a filter. Get something you can use later in the house too.
We all get "new and advanced" envy... and forget that economical, proven stuff has LOTS to recommend it. BTW filling propane tanks might seem to be a hassle, but the water heater is a frugal user of propane and it heats notably faster than the electric side.
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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03-14-2018, 06:11 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Another vote for the mixing valve, in view of extensive filtration already in place, as described below. The new search function above in blue works great. “Mixing valve” therein should help. [On the road now, with limited Internet.] Good luck!
Peter
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum
I’d bet mixing valve may have an issue, assuming your water heater has one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calm
Thanks for the tips! I have the AS hooked up behind a whole house soft water system plus chlorine/fluoride filters. Debris isn’t an issue. I took several steps tonight: removed the redundant pressure valve at the hose bib feeding the AS. Checked all screens indoors - none in the shower/ sink and bath were good. I shutoff water/ let pressure off at sink and then drained the tank. Water was pretty damn hot! I also tested the temperature relief valve (which drained the tank a lot faster) and then removed it as well. No debris from tank and valve operated properly. Reconnected everything, flipped the electric heat switch on and waited for tank to fill and heat. I have better pressure for sure but hot water turns cold after running for 30 seconds. I assume the mixing valve is the indicated issue?
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03-14-2018, 07:37 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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First, have you done ANYTHING to the outside shower... around the time the problem started?
Even if you haven't check the water temperature on the hot side there. It is the only fixture with 2 faucets. If the faucets don't operate look at the cutoff valves, open them, then turn off the faucets and check the sink, etc. Again.
Somehow the outside shower can put cold water into the hot line... but foxing the cutoffs and faucets can be a free solution... don't ask how I know.
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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03-14-2018, 08:19 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Decatur
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 690
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mixing valve, same thing happened to us
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03-25-2018, 04:20 PM
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#12
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Laguna Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 6
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Where is the mixing valve?
I want to make one last pass before I call in for a mobile repair or haul in to the dealer but I cant figure out where exactly the mixing valve is in a 2018 27FB Flying Cloud. Under the bathroom vanity there is a by-pass valve and a shutoff but no mixing valve. Anyone know?
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03-25-2018, 05:07 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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I looked in your owner's manual:
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ers-Manual.pdf
. . . for guidance on the location of the mixing valve, without success.
Here are the search results using the blue box above for 2018 Flying Cloud mixing valve:
https://www.google.com/search?q=2018...=airforums.com
Seems like the mixing valve is at the water heater, which the manual does not really seem to discuss!
In the briefcase with your manual, are there pamphlets about the water heater and mixing valve? Can you locate the water heater, perhaps via an exterior access door? Do you have the Alde system which makes the domestic hot water?
Good luck,
Peter
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03-25-2018, 05:33 PM
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#14
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Reads a lot
2017 30' Classic
Titusville
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,209
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I am pretty sure that the only models that have the Alde system are the Classics, starting with the 2017 but I could be wrong, it has happened before.
__________________
Lauri
She Believed She Could so She Did.
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03-26-2018, 08:33 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Decatur
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 690
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mixing valve
picture of mixing valve, we purchased a new one, ordered thru Walmart, took the original apart and cleaned it, it was a challenge to remove due to location and sealant used
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03-26-2018, 08:14 PM
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#16
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Laguna Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 6
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Found it!
Thanks RBS! That picture did the trick - like a snake it was staring me in the face! Definitely not adjustable . Will drain tank and remove as soon as I have some time.
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03-27-2018, 05:26 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
2012 28' International
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,708
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It is adjustable. (I just documented this in another thread). After dewinterizing, I found my hot water wasn’t as hot as it should have been and the flow was a bit restricted. I checked with my awesome Airstream tech -- he diagnosed it as a clogged water valve. I bought a new one ($169) and replaced the old one. Lots of hot water, plenty of pressure. As is my norm, I took the old one apart. The black cover can be removed. There’s a button cover in the middle of the round black cover. Pry it out with a screwdriver, then remove the phillips screw. After you do that, slide the cover off -- it does NOT turn. After removing it, you’ll see a brass fitting. The inner fitting is what you can adjust. You can do this with either a crescent wrench, or a socket. Since your trailer is new, I doubt it has accumulated calcium in it (mine did). I took the three fittings off the valve, dropped it in a mild acid solution to dissolve the calcium (which it did). I now have a spare water valve. BTW, the water valve is really tight on the water tank. It took a lot of muscle to remove the old one.
__________________
_________________
"SilverLeaf II" 2015 30' Classic
2019 RAM 2500 Limited 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins
ProPride 3P
AIR# 58452
WBCCI # 3430-Unit 21
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