Quote:
Originally Posted by AFUser
"if you have a water pressure regulator (remove it, it does zip for you)"
Zep: Do you actually mean remove the water pressure regulator? I have read that the installation of a pressure regulator on older RVs/travel trailers is an imperative. Just a couple of days ago I read that in some mountainous areas the water pressure at some camp grounds can be over 200 psi.
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When I was replacing the copper pipes with copper, I faithfully replaced the pressure regulator. Now that I use PEX, I get rid of it (it's heavy and is mechanically complex to install if you're using plastic pipe. It forces you to have some copper pipe in your system just to hold it and now you're more susceptible to freeze damage [again]). PEX tubing is rated at 100 psi at 180 degrees. I install a fitting for a 100 psi gauge so I can monitor the pump. If you're concerned about a camp with more than 100 psi water, buy an in-line hose pressure regulator. They usually have a filter included and are 1/4 the cost of a permanently installed regulator, are easy to replace, and include a gauge.
I also get rid of the original water filter(s). I keep the inlet screen filter but those old stainless canister filters are more trouble than they're worth and it's easy to bring a few gallons of separate tap water from home for soup.
You can get rid of the pressure relief valve if you install an accumulator in your system, but you need to exercise some care here. If you have a check valve on your curb water connection, you can overpressure your system if the curb water is at 100 psi and your water heater comes on (expansion as it heats). In this situation the accumulator is pretty much maxed out and your trailer pressure will go over 100 psi. I don't use an inlet check valve for this reason. I use a ball valve so that the trailer pressure is never higher than the curb inlet pressure. If you use the hose regulator, you need to know whether it acts as a check valve.
Speaking of ball valves, I always put a ball valve on the inlet to the toilet and to the water heater. The internal toilet valve on the older Thetfords is the most fragile item in your water system. If it breaks (very susceptible to freeze damage), you can close the inlet ball valve and still use the toilet and the trailer. I put the ball valve on the water heater because (1) sometimes you just want the cold water side to work and you don't want to put the 6 gallons in the water heater, (2) if you're boondocking and for some reason you want to drain your system (a very cold night) you can save the water in the water heater (the water heater won't freeze), and (3) if your water heater fails/leaks, you can isolate it and still use the cold side of your water system. Just yesterday I dewinterized my Safari and the water heater stared leaking. Until I get that fixed, I can still have water on the cold side.
My motto on the water system is the fewer parts the better.
Zep
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