Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-21-2014, 08:01 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
Zeppelinium's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,908
Send a message via Skype™ to Zeppelinium
BTW, if you've watched your water usage closely, I think you'll find that the biggest requirement is for rinsing dishes, unless you use the old-fashioned method of using a rinse tub.

You can shower in 1 to 1-1/2 gallons, but you'll use 3-4 gallons or more a day to rinse dishes. (all in "low quality" water, of course)

Z
__________________

Zeppelinium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2014, 10:34 PM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
1982 31' Excella
City , Florida
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 43
So I got everything reinstalled today and while I was doing it I tidied it all up a bit. I put in flexible pipes with easy release connections and turned some hose clips around so I could undo/tighten them more easily. When I turned on the water everything worked and I didn't have any leaks and except for about a small cup or so at the start the water came through clean. The commode holds water and flushes OK too.

The commode is a Thetford with two pedals. One pedal lets in water and the other opens the outlet valve. Questions: Should one leave water in the commode or only put water in it prior to use? If water should be left in it then to what depth?

I have uploaded a picture of the metal dome with which I covered the hole which was left in the counter top after I removed the drinking water faucet.

However I have another problem. I have yet to try the Shurflo pump but while connected to the outside supply water pours from a tube (see photo) under the Airstream. The tube exits from what appears to be a boxed pan which seems to be made of galvanized sheet steel and goes across the underside of the trailer. The tube is on the same side as and forward of the potable water inlet port but before what I believe may be the propane fired fridge or maybe the water heater (I have yet to get into that part).

Adjacent and to the front of the tube is little access door (see photo) that has been cut in the underside of the pan and secured with sheet metal screws. When I turn a faucet on the flow of water from the tube decreases so it would seem to be connected directly to the incoming cold water supply.

Please, can anyone tell me what this tube is for and where it comes from? Can it be accessed from inside the trailer or will I have to jack it up and take off the little door or...?

Thanks in advance,

Norm.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Dome.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	209.6 KB
ID:	210232   Click image for larger version

Name:	Outlet.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	365.7 KB
ID:	210233  

Click image for larger version

Name:	AccessDoor.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	337.5 KB
ID:	210234  
__________________

__________________
AFUser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 12:13 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
Zeppelinium's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,908
Send a message via Skype™ to Zeppelinium
Quote:
... Questions: Should one leave water in the commode or only put water in it prior to use? If water should be left in it then to what depth?
No water in toilet while towing. You can leave a little in it, if you like, when parked. Water should wet the bowl and have the throat (4-6" only) of the toilet full if you're going to poop.

Quote:
... while connected to the outside supply water pours from a tube (see photo) under the Airstream.
There are drain valves on your hot and cold water lines so you can flush the system or winterize. It looks to me like your drains are connected together and at least one of them is open. Look under the sink for two hose-bib-like valves and close them. In a 31' Airstream you can have two under the kitchen sink and two under the bath sink (maybe you only have two, you'll know if you have two streams coming under the belly pan).

You will also have a single drain valve for the fresh tank. So when you start to fill the tank and have the same problem, look for that valve. In the original Airstreams, that valve is on an impossibly small line, like 1/4", which takes 2-1/2 lifetimes to drain the tank. This drain is found trough a fairly sizable hole in the floor, as it is level with the bottom of the fresh tank.

Zep
Zeppelinium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 11:36 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
1982 31' Excella
City , Florida
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 43
One door shuts - another opens.

Upon further investigation it transpires that the tube gushing water below the Excella is the exit pipe to drain the system and the valve was fully open. I closed it, the outflow stopped and it does not appear to be letting by. However, the "T" junction before it is split and will have to be replaced. Because the tube is trapped between wheel well cover and the cold water storage fill line elbow it won't be easy. I would like to be America's dictator for a few hours. I would make a law that before anything goes on the market the designers should have to disassemble, service and reassemble it.

When tidying up I came across a brass check valve (see photo). I vaguely remember taking it from the space under the wardrobe closet and had put it to soak in a iron oxide dissolving solution and forgot about it, I plead old age. The point is I have forgotten where in the line it goes.

So, does it go in the fill line before or after the Watts pressure reducing valve so that when the pump is running no water escapes from the outside inlet pipe? Or does it go on the pump inlet or outlet (if so which?) to stop the cold storage tank filling and overflowing when connected to the water mains. However, so far no water has exited the cold water tank vent so perhaps the Shurflo has a built in check valve or the diaphragm acts as a check valve?

Sorry about the continuing questions but this RV came with very little paperwork. I know nothing about RVs so bolstered by your expertise and experience I am trying to learn as I go.

Thanks in advance,

Norm.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1302.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	307.6 KB
ID:	210268   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1303.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	300.8 KB
ID:	210269  

__________________
AFUser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 11:53 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
I think mine is before the regulator. Yes it keeps the pump from pumping water back to the water inlet.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 12:43 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
Zeppelinium's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,908
Send a message via Skype™ to Zeppelinium
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFUser View Post
... I came across a brass check valve (see photo). I vaguely remember taking it from the space under the wardrobe closet ... The point is I have forgotten where in the line it goes. ...
Two places (I know you only have one). You need a check valve at the curb water entry. Some of the fittings have a check valve in them, and if you have a water pressure regulator (remove it, it does zip for you) they will sometimes suffice as a check valve.

The other place is on the cold feed line to the water heater. Why? Because the water heater can get a bubble of air in its 7 gallon tank and when that bubble is pressurized, you can often get hot flow backwards into the cold system and have hot water at both sides of a faucet for quite an extended period.

Zep
Zeppelinium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 09:44 PM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
1982 31' Excella
City , Florida
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 43
I managed to cut out the water supply line which was trapped between the wheel well cover and the potable inlet elbow by using a saw with a narrow blade. Not sure what they're called but "drywall saw" rings a bell.

I went to the store today and bought enough fittings and flexible tubing to replace everything. It seems that the butyl tubing used in older Airstreams like mine is OK but it is the plastic fittings that fail.

Thank you Perry and Zep for the info on the where to put the check valve.

"if you have a water pressure regulator (remove it, it does zip for you)"


Zep: Do you actually mean remove the water pressure regulator? I have read that the installation of a pressure regulator on older RVs/travel trailers is an imperative. Just a couple of days ago I read that in some mountainous areas the water pressure at some camp grounds can be over 200 psi.

Thanks in advance,

Norm.
__________________
AFUser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 04:01 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Zeppelinium's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,908
Send a message via Skype™ to Zeppelinium
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFUser View Post
"if you have a water pressure regulator (remove it, it does zip for you)"

Zep: Do you actually mean remove the water pressure regulator? I have read that the installation of a pressure regulator on older RVs/travel trailers is an imperative. Just a couple of days ago I read that in some mountainous areas the water pressure at some camp grounds can be over 200 psi.
When I was replacing the copper pipes with copper, I faithfully replaced the pressure regulator. Now that I use PEX, I get rid of it (it's heavy and is mechanically complex to install if you're using plastic pipe. It forces you to have some copper pipe in your system just to hold it and now you're more susceptible to freeze damage [again]). PEX tubing is rated at 100 psi at 180 degrees. I install a fitting for a 100 psi gauge so I can monitor the pump. If you're concerned about a camp with more than 100 psi water, buy an in-line hose pressure regulator. They usually have a filter included and are 1/4 the cost of a permanently installed regulator, are easy to replace, and include a gauge.

I also get rid of the original water filter(s). I keep the inlet screen filter but those old stainless canister filters are more trouble than they're worth and it's easy to bring a few gallons of separate tap water from home for soup.

You can get rid of the pressure relief valve if you install an accumulator in your system, but you need to exercise some care here. If you have a check valve on your curb water connection, you can overpressure your system if the curb water is at 100 psi and your water heater comes on (expansion as it heats). In this situation the accumulator is pretty much maxed out and your trailer pressure will go over 100 psi. I don't use an inlet check valve for this reason. I use a ball valve so that the trailer pressure is never higher than the curb inlet pressure. If you use the hose regulator, you need to know whether it acts as a check valve.

Speaking of ball valves, I always put a ball valve on the inlet to the toilet and to the water heater. The internal toilet valve on the older Thetfords is the most fragile item in your water system. If it breaks (very susceptible to freeze damage), you can close the inlet ball valve and still use the toilet and the trailer. I put the ball valve on the water heater because (1) sometimes you just want the cold water side to work and you don't want to put the 6 gallons in the water heater, (2) if you're boondocking and for some reason you want to drain your system (a very cold night) you can save the water in the water heater (the water heater won't freeze), and (3) if your water heater fails/leaks, you can isolate it and still use the cold side of your water system. Just yesterday I dewinterized my Safari and the water heater stared leaking. Until I get that fixed, I can still have water on the cold side.

My motto on the water system is the fewer parts the better.

Zep
Zeppelinium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 07:04 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
Some of us are still using the original PB tubing and don't want to overpressure it. The 10 yr plan is to replace it all with PEX. Before I replaced the regulator, I was afraid to even hook to city water. There are places where there are plastic hoses as well that make the PB stuff look good. I have been concentrating on the exterior and structure and am gradually fixing stuff on the inside. Everything works but it is old and will have issues eventually. The furnace and fridge are next on the hit list.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 11:09 PM   #24
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
One is your vent for the fresh water tank to displace the air while filling or replace the water tank with air as you use the water. You should attach a line to it as well and run it up and out. If you over fill your tank it will expel water. The brass fitting is meant to be a back flow preventer / one way valve.
__________________
mholbert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2014, 01:37 PM   #25
The CriscoCan
 
CriscoCan's Avatar
 
1969 27' Overlander
Hamilton , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 29
Use PEX to replace water lines, you wont be sorry.
__________________

__________________
CriscoCan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Boles-Aero, Anyone know about these? tetstream Vintage Kin 20 10-21-2017 02:21 PM
anyone know where to get more of these? Globie64 Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 3 06-14-2013 01:10 AM
Anyone know where I can get one of these? NicheVintage Lights - Interior & Exterior 3 10-20-2010 02:54 PM
Does anyone know what these are? 1963tradewin Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 1 08-17-2007 02:57 PM
replacing motorhome sunvisors ... anyone know how to source these nickglase Classic Motorhomes 10 03-11-2007 12:51 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.