Discovered how to increase water pressure!

[HCR]

Problem has been low pressure when hooked to city supply at kitchen spigot and shower, despite adequate pressure at the supply hose to trailer. Plenty of pressure to flush toilet and at bath sink.

Equipped with optional Aquajet pump (also referred to as "Aquatek" in owner's manual). Manual says to boost pressure w/low city supply to turn on pump when hooked to city water. Tried that to no avail--pump would not cycle on.

By accident , discovered that pump cycles on and stays on when TOILET is flushed and held down for 15 continuous seconds and that there is then greatly increased flow at both kitchen spigot and shower if I have either or both turned on when the toilet is flushed! And, no, it's not necessary to keep flushing the toilet once pump cycles on. (Thank goodness in that I live alone and would have to train dog to keep flushing while I showered--it was hard enough to teach her to just flush once after doing her business.) Yipee!

As to why this is the case, I have no idea.

Your explanations oh learned ones?

[masseyfarm]

Originally Posted by HCR

(Thank goodness in that I live alone and would have to train dog to keep flushing while I showered--it was hard enough to teach her to just flush once after doing her business.) Yipee!

As to why this is the case, I have no idea.

Your explanations oh learned ones?

Sometimes dogs are just hard to train -- like old guys!

[HCR]

Got me Masseyfarm! Are you a high school English teacher by chance?

I wanted to refer to the puzzle of the low water pressure, but it was clearly unclear as to whether I sought explanation for the water problem or the dog.

Read your post to the dog and she got a chuckle from it.

[masseyfarm]

Has this pressure problem just happened or has it been getting worse over time? (filter may be plugged)

Is the low pressure only on the hot water side? (possible hot water tank valve partially closed, or plugged with scale if you are in a hard water area)
Not familiar with your trailer so I have just refreshed the thread to see if others can help.
One thing about dogs, once you train them, they won't forget. Not sure that is true with the superior species.
Dave

[HCR]

I have had trailer for 3 months and it was apparently used in an area w/very hard water as there was lots of calcium(?) to the point that I had to replace the shower head to get an kind of flow. To answer your question, there is low pressure at kitchen sink and shower for hot as well as cold water.

Your suggestion re clogged pump filter is something I had not considered as I have good pressure in the bath sink. Will look on line and see if I can find instructions for cleaning or replacing the filter. Thanks for your suggestions.

[2airishuman]

there is a PRE screen (large particle filter) just inches ahead of the water pump.

it's easy to inspect (clear) and easy to clean (screw off base) and easy to replace (2 connections)
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both the shower and galley faucets are SINGLE handles right?

this means there is a 'mixer valve' for each.

IF the plumbing has a history of high mineral exposure,

it's possible BOTH mixer valves are crud'd up.

the owner's packet has booklets with schematics for each fixture.

they are also available on line from the manufacturers (moen n delta n ?)

the online parts manual for that year/model also has much of the details on the a/s company website.
_________

start with the obvious,

-remove the faucet aerator/screen and clean

-remove the fixture head/handle, inspect and clean.

-remove the base and get access to the mixer valves (in the shower wall) inspect and clean.

-next, go the water inlets, water heater and pumps and inspect/clean all valves/fittings that are accessible.
________

IF this doesn't solve the flow issues at each outlet...

the challenge is getting to all the bends/nooooooks and dark recesses for hidden plumbing bits.

so IF after cleaning all the terminal bits there are still issues try this...
_________

??do you have a "winterizing kit" installed at the water pump?

this is basically a 3 way brass valve and 2 foot section of tubing.

they are widely available from most rv supply stores.

IF the trailer doesn't have one, buy and install (about 20$)

then instead of using rv antifreeze, get a gallon of CLR or some other plastic safe mineral deposit dissolver...

even acetic acid (vinegar) might work, but the CLR is better for this.

then following the instructions for "winterizing with antifreeze" flood the water lines with CLR...

open each tap till (add some food coloring to the jug) the CLR is flowing out, then close...

now move to the next tap, and so on.

let the 'lines' have full exposure to the mineral dissolving acids for a few hours...

then drain the acids, flood the lines, flush the fixtures and run 1-2 tanks of fresh water through the entire system.

also drain and flush the holding tanks.

this acid cleaning should dissolve most/all of the line minerals without needing to REplumb the stream,

but it would be useful to RE inspect and clean now the screens and prefilters and aeration bits again,

since chunks o'crud may have broken loose during the acid flush.

cheers
2air'

[HCR]

2Airishuman--WOW! What a detailed and helpful reply to my questions! Thanks a million for your time and effort!