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Old 11-18-2009, 08:00 PM   #15
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Interesting comparison to copper:

CPVC vs. Copper Plumbing | Builders Websource®

For this link - go to the home page and then publications - read to your hearts desire.

CPVC Products

And there's this:

Let us consider some of the pro's & Con's of all the code approved materials for potable water distribution.

1.proven service life of 60-100 years.
2.Highly resistant to external mechanical shock.(Something hitting the pipe).
3.Not effected by exposure to UV light.
2.Very labor intensive to install.
3.Requires expensive tools to install it, I.E. Pipe wrenches ($25 to $150 each for a quality wrench), pipe cutter($30+) NPT(National Pipe Taper) threading dies (hand die sets $150 to $450+) portable pipe vise($150) or equivalent. Generally these tools can be rented.)
4.Although rare, it can be ruptured by freezing.
5.Has a high suceptabilty to internal pipe wall mineral scaling.
1.Perhaps the longest service life of all the options.
2.Highly resistant to external mechanical shock.(Something hitting the pipe).
3.Not effected by exposure to UV light.
1. Very limited availability,
2.Extemely expensive,
3.Very labor intensive to install. (Requires the same tools as galv. iron pipe).
4.Although rare, it can be ruptured by freezing.
Brass and galvanized pipe are very unforgiving mediums to work with and would not be recommended as a DIY project.
1.Under most conditions and when properly installed copper has a proven service life of 50 to 75+ years.(AS copper ages it forms a greenish film on the inner wall of the pipe which is coppersulfate, one of the best antibacterial substances known to man thus copper has the highest resistance to the formation of bacterial or microbial growths in the water supply.)
2.Does not form mineral scale on the inner pipe walls.
3.High resistance to mechanical shock.
4.Quick and easy to install with a minimum of tools (tubing cutter, propane torch, emery cloth, flux and lead free solder(total cost for all $50 average). Requires wrought copper fittings and brazed joints when run under a slab within the confines of a structure. Can be brazed with the same torch using MAPP gas. Is considered an easy DIY project for a homeowner or DIY'er with intermediate skills.
Is not effected by UV light.
1.Moderately expensive
2.Under some extemely rare water qualtiy conditions copper pipe may develope pin holes. (In my personal opinion if there is a condition in the water that will eat up your pipes I have to wonder what those conditions do to your body? Would it not be more prudent to invest in a water treatment system instead of shopping for a pipe that might be more tolerant of the problem?)
3.Pipe walls will rupture when frozen.
4.HIgh incidence of theft both of the raw material during construction and from breakins when a home is unattended.
1. Can be economical. Currently the linear foot cost is about 1/3 that of copper however, when run in the modern manifold configuration we use so many more linear feet that often the final cost is more than copper.
2.Expected service life in excess of 75 years.
3.Easy to install, can be fished through walls like electrical cable.
4.Easily bends around corners.
5.PEX tubing will withstand freezing.
1.Not yet code accepted in all places.
2.Requires expensive fittings.
3.Requires the fittings be set with expensive crimping tools.
4.While the tubing will withstand freezing the fittings are made of copper and are subject to the same freezing problems as copper.
5.While it is argued that PEX is the material of choice in areas with acidic water it must be remembered that all PEX fittings are made of the same grade of copper as copper pipe and they are also subject to pinholes.
6.Exposure to UV light(sunlight) deteriates PEX tubing and it must be shielded from direct exposure.
7.For reasons known only to the varmints involved, rabbits, mice, rats and opposums have a high propensity to chew on PEX tubing.
8.Biofilm has the highest rate of growth in PEX tubing when installed in a manifold configuration. (Biofilm is known to cause a number of diseases among which is legionaires disease.)
1.Cheapest of all approved potable water piping materials.
2.Easy to install, requires only a PVC pipe cutter or a hacksaw to cut.
3.Very easy to join. Requires only a means to cut the pipe (hacksaw or hand PVC snap cutter the prime and glue. (The primer and glue must be listed as approved for CPVC under ASTM standard F493).
4.Has no copper components in the distribution system and will tolerate high acidic water conditions. PVC glue is manufactured to ASTM standard D2855 and may not be used on PVC however there are glues available that are listed as approved for both PVC & CPVC-check the labels carefully. Con's
1.Will not tolerate mechanical shock.
2.Becomes brittle with age or exposure to UV light.
3.Maximum working temperature 140degF.
4.Has the lowest resistance to freezing of all pipe materials.

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Old 11-19-2009, 08:53 AM   #16
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Never cut Cpvc with a hacksaw,those little pieces can plug up shower valve and faucets.
Our pex fittings are brass ,they quit using copper fittings here several years ago. Dave

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Old 11-19-2009, 09:10 AM   #17
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I have a 1997 Excella 1000 30' that is plumbed with cpvc. So far no problems.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:12 AM   #18
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After cutting with a hacksaw I would highly recommend one of these:
Plastic Pipe Deburring Tool | U.S. Plastic Corp.
In addition to removing the burrs and shavings it also helps seat the pip into fittings completely.

If I don't have mine handy I just go around with my knife.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:48 AM   #19
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Thanks for all the answers and feedback.

What do they use on new Airstream trailers
currently in production?
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:45 AM   #20
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Sandpaper will also clean out the burrs in plastic pipe. I've used a knife but it can cause more burrs if it catches on the plastic.

I think Pex has been used on Airstreams for a while.


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