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Old 05-18-2011, 08:18 AM   #1
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1973 Argosy 26
1966 30' Sovereign
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Complete re-plumb...

As I am going through things on my Argosy26 (I have multiple projects going on at the same time). I am going to re-plumb the entire works with PEX type plumbing. I have counted multiple bursts in the existing copper as well as seperation at bends (the bends were made using flexible rubber hose to join copper under the shower, which led to sub-floor damage).

Looking at the configuration of the trailer, I am considering using a manifold sytem (2-1 for hot, 1 for cold) and stick with dedicated runs to eliminate joints that may not be easily accessed once I have her back together. Along with this, I am toying with the idea of installing a sprinkling system type of "blow-out" for winterizing.

Does anyone have a schematic of this type of set-up? Thoughts and input are welcome and needed... Many thanks!
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:37 AM   #2
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Plumbing

Here is what I did on my 26' Argosy. As you may notice, I removed the closet in the bath, relocated the sink. All of the valving for the system is under the vanity.
The supply line from the tank/pump runs down the street side, much as it did on the original. The original plumbing to the shower and toilet is routed the same.
Where I made changes was in the routing of the pipes for the galley sink. Originally these 2 lines ran in front of the toilet and tub; it was hidden behind the front panels for both. I ran new PEX tubing around the back of the tub, between the tub and the outside wall. There are no joints anywhere that are not accessible.
We just returned from a trip thru the Colorado Rockies where the nightime temps got down to 19 degrees and experienced no problems with the plumbing.
I also relocated the small heat duct that ran under the tub to the outside of the tub to blow warm air in the direction that the PEX tubing runs.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:39 AM   #3
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There is no reason why you could not use a manifold. The plumbing is pretty simple; I never considered it because there are so few fixtures. Are you going to use 3/8" pex? Anything larger would be overkill. Remember that new solutions have new problems.

Dan
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:53 AM   #4
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1973 Argosy 26
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Southern , Wisconsin
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TG-I am considering taking out the closet permanantly as well...not sure just yet though. Either way it will be redone to allow for easier access to all systems (I hate how inaccessible the univolt is also). Thanks for the photos, it will be helpful.
BTW, did yours have the rubber hose connecting copper to make the bend in front of the tub? Separation there is what caused most of my sub-floor damage.

Dan-That's actually why I am considering a manifold and dedicated runs, there are so few fixtures that it won't take much more material to do considering I found 100' rolls of nibco pex for $25. 1/2" is what was original in copper, so I'll stick with the same for pex, stubbing out to 3/8" supply lines at each fixture. The ID of pex is smaller than copper as well.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:02 AM   #5
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1973 Argosy 26
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As I look things over, I want to simplify the system. As stated before, I will be using manifolds (5-out for cold, 3-out for hot), dedicated runs to each fixture, 1 main drain valve for winterizing, cut-off valves to isolate the water pump and city water from each other. I think that covers it. Am I missing anything?
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