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Old 07-17-2004, 02:51 PM   #1
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Clorox in fresh water tank--for how long?

I mixed a pint of clorox in water and put it in my fresh water tank--tank was/is only about 1/3 full.....

It has been there 2-3 weeks, is this too long? If I drain the fresh water tank onto newly sealed asphalt (storage yard just re-sealed the whole thing) will it bleach the asphalt?

I was planning to bring the trailer home in 2 more weeks, but if you guys/girls thinking I am damaging the tank/lines/seals/pump, I will get it outa there quickly.
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Old 07-17-2004, 02:55 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
I mixed a pint of clorox in water and put it in my fresh water tank--tank was/is only about 1/3 full.....

It has been there 2-3 weeks, is this too long? If I drain the fresh water tank onto newly sealed asphalt (storage yard just re-sealed the whole thing) will it bleach the asphalt?

I was planning to bring the trailer home in 2 more weeks, but if you guys/girls thinking I am damaging the tank/lines/seals/pump, I will get it outa there quickly.
The ratio of bleach is usually a cup for a tank of water, a tank being about 30 gallons or so. If you don't want to chance dumping the tank with that concentration, fill the tank the rest of the way up, but I don't think it will do anything to the asphalt coating. A little more dilution won't hurt.
Terry
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Old 07-17-2004, 04:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argosy20
The ratio of bleach is usually a cup for a tank of water, a tank being about 30 gallons or so. If you don't want to chance dumping the tank with that concentration, fill the tank the rest of the way up, but I don't think it will do anything to the asphalt coating. A little more dilution won't hurt.
Terry
http://www.airstream.com/product_lin.../faq.html#tank

From the Airstream website.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DISINFECIION OF POTABLE WATER SYSTEMS ON RECREATION VEHICLES

As approved by the U.S. Public Health Service

To assure complete disinfection of your potable water system, it is recommended that the following procedures be followed on a new system, one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have become contaminated. This procedure is also recommended before long periods of storage such as over winter.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using 1 gallon of water and 1/4 cup of household bleach (sodium hypochlorite solution). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into the tank. Use 1 gallon solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity. This procedure will result in a residual chlorine concentration of 50 ppm in the water system. If a 100 ppm concentration is required as discussed in item 3, use 1/2 cup of household bleach with 1 gallon of water to prepare the chlorine solution. One gallon of the solution should be used for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with potable water. Open each faucet and run the water until a distinct odor of chlorine can be detected in the water discharged. Do not forget the hot water taps.

3. Allow the system to stand for at least 4 hours when disinfecting with 50 ppm residual chlorine. If a shorter time period is desired, then a 100 ppm chlorine concentration should be permitted to stand in the system for at least 1 hour.

4. Drain and flush with potable water.
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Old 07-17-2004, 04:40 PM   #4
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Am a little "Clorox rich" with my mixture ; is it going to eat the whatevers?

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Old 07-17-2004, 06:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPAIRSTREAM
http://www.airstream.com/product_lin.../faq.html#tank

From the Airstream website.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DISINFECIION OF POTABLE WATER SYSTEMS ON RECREATION VEHICLES

As approved by the U.S. Public Health Service

To assure complete disinfection of your potable water system, it is recommended that the following procedures be followed on a new system, one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have become contaminated. This procedure is also recommended before long periods of storage such as over winter.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using 1 gallon of water and 1/4 cup of household bleach (sodium hypochlorite solution). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into the tank. Use 1 gallon solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity. This procedure will result in a residual chlorine concentration of 50 ppm in the water system. If a 100 ppm concentration is required as discussed in item 3, use 1/2 cup of household bleach with 1 gallon of water to prepare the chlorine solution. One gallon of the solution should be used for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with potable water. Open each faucet and run the water until a distinct odor of chlorine can be detected in the water discharged. Do not forget the hot water taps.

3. Allow the system to stand for at least 4 hours when disinfecting with 50 ppm residual chlorine. If a shorter time period is desired, then a 100 ppm chlorine concentration should be permitted to stand in the system for at least 1 hour.

4. Drain and flush with potable water.
So, if I read this right, the ratio is 1 cup of bleach for 30 gallons of water. Or is it the new math, again? I never said I could add...
Terry
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Old 07-17-2004, 07:03 PM   #6
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So, am I over-protected or rotting/ruining the gaskets/pipes, etc?

Kistler
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Old 07-17-2004, 07:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
So, am I over-protected or rotting/ruining the gaskets/pipes, etc?

Kistler
Fill the tank with water, and run water through your pipes for a few minutes, you should be okay. The chlorine tends to "outgas" some also.
Terry
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Old 07-17-2004, 07:47 PM   #8
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Flush it out really good (3-4 times) and I think you'll be fine. If for some reason, you still have a smell or taste of bleach, which you might after leaving it in so long and in a higher volume, add a bit of baking soda (couple, two or three table spoons) to some fresh water, pour it into the tank. It will be diluted into the water, so it won't just sit in the tank. Then run that through your system (not leaving it in long) and reflush and you should be fine.

Have fun!
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Old 07-17-2004, 08:22 PM   #9
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Since this thread is about water tanks.....I will ask this again;
my Motorhome drain valve is behind the tank, between the outside wall and the tank, and also under my fold out couch-bed.
It is hard as heck to reach, and you have to hold up or disconnect the heat air duct that goes from the furnace to the front vent.
It seems not to have an outlet below the floor....if I turn the valve(no easy feat), will the water dump into the floor? Shouldn't I know, but I don't see where it is connected to an outside hose. I don't think this was ever modified, so if you have a 280, 0r similiar maybe you can explain what I am missing.
I have dumped anti-freeze in each winter, since I can't be sure I am draining the tank all the way.
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