I've been using one of those 6" hose extensions with a spring around it to prevent it's kinking. The spring was too strong and while closing the outer cover of the area, it caused the city water intake fitting to break off. The line to that point seems to be about 5/8" thin walled brass. And, the line seems to emerge from a plastic part about 2.5 to 3" diameter but with a roughly square face to the outside.
Does anyone know what's inside there that will need to be replaced? What about how to do it?
Hopefully someone's familiar with this and and can offer some help. My prior attempt at a word description seems to have failed, so I've taken a few pictures for clarity. Included are my city water hookup point, the part that broke off, & the extension I wish I hadn't used.
This is not a difficult job. You will need to remove the entire component/assembly. There is a small access hole on the side to get to the backside of the valve assembly. When you buy the new part, it is available with a water pressure regulator or not (your option) and it will come with a check valve built-in.
__________________ History doesn't repeat itself, people do!
Thanks for the response. When you say there's a small hole on the side, do you mean the side of the housing where the black tank backflush enters? How is the assembly attached to the water supply (Threaded, slip, soldered)? Where can I buy the new part and what's it called? I'll probably want to go with the water pressure regulator.
I did try removing the 4 screws in the assembly's face and pulled about a 0.25" until it felt like I might break something, so I can see there must be a rear access as you described.
Driver1, Dwight is right, it's not difficult to change. The water line on the inside is just finger tight, maybe a litte snuger connection. Once you access that and unscrew it simply remove the 4 screws and it's loose. I bought a replacement for my 1990 from PEXsupply,com You may find it elsewhere. My 1990 has the model with the built in pressure regulator. I'll bet yours does too. Airstream has used pressure regulators since forever. The part that seperates when they break is held together with very thin brass that is simply rolled around the fitting. On my 90 the thing is mounted on the outside skin. It's very vulnerable to breakage if someone walking by hits the hose. Since I replaced mine I've carried a spare. I should put a valve in the water line inside because if this thing breaks and you can't shut off the supply you could be without water till a repair part comes. There is supposed to be a check valve in the line also but those sometimes stick or don't work or leak. If it leaks when the intake is removed then the open line inside the trailer could create a mess. Good luck. Charlie E.
Driver 1,
I just looked again at your pictures. Your connection is below the floor level. Unless there is a cutout hole in the floor to reach down and access it you'll probably have to drill some rivets holding that little compartment on the belly wrap or cut a slit or two in the belly pan. I can't tell for sure from here in Maine, it's about 3,000 miles you know. Maybe you can drill out the rivets holding the hinge on the access door. Check it out. If Airstream put it together it should come apart. They don't hide their work that well but what you should be able to figure it out. Charlie E.
I had to replace mine about 6 years ago and the trailer isn't at the house for me to look at it, but the access area is the area for the black tank spray hose. It is tight and I didn't have to cut or make any extra holes to replace it. Just take your time and go easy.
__________________ History doesn't repeat itself, people do!
I looked at www.PEXsupply,com and didn't find a part that seemed right. With a Google search, I did find the following. Is this the correct part?:
Shurflo RV City Water Entry Polar White
CDRV #26215
Mfg #183-029-18
Ship Wt: 0.626 LBS.
CD RV Parts Price! $36.02 Shurflo RV City Water Entry Polar White Shurflo RV City Water Pressure Regulator
An exclusive diaphragm design prevents high-pressure damage often caused by city water systems. Leak-tight, stress and crack-resistant, these high-performance water entries limit water pressure safely to 50 PSI [3.4 BAR] or 65 PSI [4.5 BAR] while meeting or surpassing all check valve code requirements.
Thanks to your coaching, the job's done. In our unit, I found that access to the back side of the City Water Entry assembly is somewhat different than what you've seen. The attached pictures highlight what I found. Once you have the access, the change-out is simple.
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