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Old 08-17-2012, 03:05 PM   #1
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City Water Hooked Up Making Fresh Water Tank Leak/Overflow???

Hi y'all,

I have a 1975 24' Argosy. Is there any way that the fresh water tank at the front of the trailer can be filled with the city water valve at the rear of the trailer? I had city water hooked up and left the hose turned on constantly for two days (so that there would be sink pressure without using the water pump) and on day 2 my fresh water tank started to overflow/leak...Granted, the fresh water tank was mostly full already. Why would this be happening?

I've had city water hooked up before for multiple days in a row and never had this happen, but the fresh water tank also was never as full as it was this time.

I had figured there has to be some sort of stop valve that prevents the city valve from filling up the fresh water tank...but maybe there isn't?

Also, not sure if it matters, but our water pump has been switched off. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:04 PM   #2
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I'm thinking maybe I just had the city water pressure turned up too high and the water pump's back flow stopper couldn't stop all the water? Could that be?
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:10 PM   #3
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I'm thinking maybe I just had the city water pressure turned up too high and the water pump's back flow stopper couldn't stop all the water? Could that be?
Either that, or the pump's check-flow valve is bad.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:24 PM   #4
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I agree that it's probably a checkvalve problem. In my '75 Argosy 24 the only connection between city water and the freshwater tank is through the pump.

Assuming the freshwater tank was empty when you started, that's a 20 gallon per day leak through the checkvalve, which is pretty significant. do you see water coming out the freshwater fill door? Or just see water under the trailer/coming from under the gaucho or dinette (whichever your trailer has)?

If it's not coming from the freshwater fill, it could be another sort of leak, but in that area it would still be either the line from the pump to the other pipes under the sink, from the pump itself or somewhere between the pump and the fresh tank (which would still indicate a bad checkvalve).
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:30 PM   #5
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Unless your rig has the tank-fill option on it, allowing one to fill the fresh water tank via the city water hookup rather than the fresh water port) — and I don't think your year of trailer does — I agree that most likely, your water pump's check flow valve has failed or is leaking and is allowing water to back-fill into the fresh water tank. Until that is resolved, your best option is to use water from the fresh water tank by using the water pump.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:12 PM   #6
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Thanks for the responses, guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post

Assuming the freshwater tank was empty when you started, that's a 20 gallon per day leak through the checkvalve, which is pretty significant. do you see water coming out the freshwater fill door? Or just see water under the trailer/coming from under the gaucho or dinette (whichever your trailer has)?
The leak seemed to be coming from the freshwater fill door, which would indicate it isn't a leak, but rather an overflowing freshwater tank. The tank was not empty when I hooked up city water and turned it on...in fact it was almost full, so over a two day period not a whole lot of water made it past the pump and into the freshwater tank, though I don't know how much water spilled out before I found the leak. It does seem like there is a problem with my pump's check valve that was probably exacerbated by high city water pressure. My pump is not in great shape anyway, so maybe its time for a new one altogether. Do all modern pumps have check valve's built in to stop reverse water flow into the fresh water tank?
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Wgbarrbevco View Post
Thanks for the responses, guys.
....................................
It does seem like there is a problem with my pump's check valve that was probably exacerbated by high city water pressure. My pump is not in great shape anyway, so maybe its time for a new one altogether. Do all modern pumps have check valve's built in to stop reverse water flow into the fresh water tank?
A new pump would have a built in stop. You could also add a one way valve in the line to the pump. You could use yours as is if you leave the drain for the tank open. That way it won't overflow but drain as it get by the pump.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:37 PM   #8
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Pump valve Picture




If your lines to the 12 volt water pump are installed backwards the unintended tank fill while on city water will happen. I installed a manual valve on both sides of the water system, one on the pump and one on the city crossover intake. When I turn on the city water, I shut off the pump line. When I run the 12 volt pump, I shut off the line to the city water intake.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:40 PM   #9
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I have a regulator inline with the hose I connect to city water, figuring there may not be a working one in the plumbing. Cheap insurance.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #10
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I have a 1970 21' Globetrotter Land Yacht, I went camping this weekend and had the the hose hooked up to the rear adapter. The 2nd day in I noticed a leak from under the trailer. I then found that the fresh water tanked had filled up & started overflowing. Is there a shut off valve that can stop water from filling my tank when hooked up to city water? If so, where may it be located?
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:51 PM   #11
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As described above, unless someone has modified your trailer only the checkvalve in the water pump prevents city water from backflowing into the fresh tank. If your pump is readily accessible, it wouldn't be hard to install such a valve though. You'd probably want to put it after the output side of the pump.

Alternately, addressing the faulty checkvalve should solve the problem without modifying the plumbing.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:52 AM   #12
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I had this same issue this past weekend. We were hooked up to city water and I noticed that my fresh water tank was filling. I ran the pump after disconnecting everything and it had to dump at least 20 gallons. I'll install the valve this weekend.

Also, is there ANY way it could have gotten into the gray water tank? I can't believe how fast that thing filled up. We were there for 3 nights and only two short showers were taken in the trailer. The gray tank was full on night two.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:19 AM   #13
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I had this same issue this past weekend. We were hooked up to city water and I noticed that my fresh water tank was filling. I ran the pump after disconnecting everything and it had to dump at least 20 gallons. I'll install the valve this weekend.

Also, is there ANY way it could have gotten into the gray water tank? I can't believe how fast that thing filled up. We were there for 3 nights and only two short showers were taken in the trailer. The gray tank was full on night two.
I think the only way into the gray tank should be the sink and shower drains. If your '78 still has the original gray tanks, they're very small. My '75 has something like 12 gallons of graywater storage, your larger trailer hopefully has more but they were half-hearted about providing graywater holding tanks in the '70s.
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Old 10-25-2017, 09:42 AM   #14
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potable water tank leak

i was poring antifreeze to winterize my safari sport in my fresh water tank ..ran the pump,soon realized it had nothing to pump,checked under the stairs..sure enough,the antifr.was dripping from the seem ...i now am questioning and looking for the best way to seal the leak ,has anyone tried this PRO FLEX TAPE...???
on Youtube it shows spectacular repairs!!!???
had to get a hose to fit to pump to put into the antifr.jug to pump thru the pipes..it worked fine...
i hardly use my potable w.tank,always travel with a big water container to cook,drink,make tea,coffee ,and hook up at the campgrounds..still i would like to fix the leak.....thank you for any input ..M
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:32 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by la nomade View Post
i was poring antifreeze to winterize my safari sport in my fresh water tank ..ran the pump,soon realized it had nothing to pump,checked under the stairs..sure enough,the antifr.was dripping from the seem ...i now am questioning and looking for the best way to seal the leak ,has anyone tried this PRO FLEX TAPE...???
on Youtube it shows spectacular repairs!!!???
had to get a hose to fit to pump to put into the antifr.jug to pump thru the pipes..it worked fine...
i hardly use my potable w.tank,always travel with a big water container to cook,drink,make tea,coffee ,and hook up at the campgrounds..still i would like to fix the leak.....thank you for any input ..M


I wouldn’t use anything that will leech chemicals into my fresh water supply. Change the tank.
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Old 10-25-2017, 11:52 AM   #16
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City Water Hooked Up Making Fresh Water Tank Leak/Overflow???

The water pump connections are unions on either side. You can take the pump out. Then remove the front of the pump. The check is right there. It looks like a dime size disk. A little bit of plumbers grease will fix it. Plumbers grease is not regular grease. It is very cheap and it is safe.

You may need to clean it with some vinegar and an old tooth brush to remove white mineral deposits.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:28 PM   #17
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Self filling fresh water tank.

Some of the pumps use a "duck bill" valve to stop the water from flowing back through the pump and into the freshwater tank. I had a Surflow that did this for two years. Notice that the water flows into the fresh water tank when the pressure from shore is less than 40psi. Only thing I can suggest is to not use a Surflow pump.
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:49 PM   #18
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La nomade...
You don't want to put antifreeze into your fresh water tank directly, it's a serious health hazard. If you have done so, be sure to fill, and flush the tank multiple times in the spring, then when you fill it for the last time add a few caps of bleach, let it sit overnight, drain,can't flush 2x again.


Drain black and grey tanks, then close the valves.

As for winterizing, close off the valves to your hot water heater ( it can hold 6 gallons of antifreeze if you dont)

Remove the drain plug to h20 heater, drain.

Open your low point drain on the belly of your rig.

Close that drain once most of the water is out.

Open a faucet with the h20 pump on, until you hear air, like you have no water

Then someplace near your h20 pump there will be an uptake hose, with a valve,

Get about 4 to 6 gallons of rv antifreeze only.
Place the tube into a gallon, have the DW hold said gallon to prevent it from tipping over.


Turn on the water pump.
One appliance at a time, turn on the faucet in the
Kitchen until you see pink...then the bath sink, then the shower, and then the toilet.

Now turn off the h20 pump.
Take the anti freeze you have left over, pour a bit into the kitchen and bath sinks to protect the p traps

Do the same for the shower...
Then pour the rest into the toilet, and flush.

Now...for extra protection...go back outside, very quickly (with the tank cover still ON)
Pull the black and grey tank open and shut for 3 to 5 seconds.

This will get the antifreeze into the valve seals...and prevent either a very nasty job if replacing them due to freezing and becoming frail, or having them stick and tear in the early spring.

If I've forgot anything here guys...olease jump in...i t's been a while for me as we winter in southern CA.
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:45 AM   #19
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Proper rv antifreeze is not a health hazard. Never use auto af in anypart of your trailer!
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