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Old 03-14-2006, 05:02 PM   #1
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City Water Connection

My city water connection fell prey to the trial of time and the old QUEST fitting cracked (see pics). I replaced the QUEST fitting w/ a Brass (?) drop elbow and a garden hose swivel. I didn't replace the water line as it seemed to be in good shape. I did inspect the fittings inside from the city water inlet to the water pressure regulator; everything seemed okay so I left good enough alone.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:16 PM   #2
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Looks good I see no reason why that will not work..
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:52 PM   #3
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Nice looking job! On ours (67), the water connection, which is located in the rear compartment, didn't look too timeworthy. As a solution, we purchased one of the short hoses used for home washing machines (90 degree at one end plus screen) and installed it inline. Now, instead of filling around inside the compartment in order to hook up to fresh, we just flop out the short hose and connect on.

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Old 03-14-2006, 05:58 PM   #4
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Interesting pictures....kind of a retro if you will. What you have contrived was OEM on the 1975 models...I think

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Old 03-14-2006, 06:17 PM   #5
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Nice job. Don't forget to put a plug in it to keep all the road dirt out.
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Old 03-14-2006, 07:02 PM   #6
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Looks like the old one paid it's dues. The new setup looks nice!

Lynn, we did a similar thing with ours. The city water connection is inside the streetside compartment above the hole in the floor where the cord comes out for shore power, so we put a long braided hose like you use under sinks on the city water inlet.Now it's long enough to drop out through the same hole as the electric cord and we can hook it up outside the trailer. And if it leaks, it drips outside.
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Old 05-12-2006, 02:45 AM   #7
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City water inlet

Help - am I suffering from p.o. syndrome, or was it oem?

The city water hookup (inlet) on my AS is simply a hose bib type faucet with MALE threads. I've searched the forum, and found others pictured that way also, but the picture in the above post shows FEMALE. That makes more sense - how do I hook up with male threads? Cut the end off a hose and clamp in a replacement MALE end?
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Old 05-12-2006, 06:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
Help - am I suffering from p.o. syndrome, or was it oem?

The city water hookup (inlet) on my AS is simply a hose bib type faucet with MALE threads. I've searched the forum, and found others pictured that way also, but the picture in the above post shows FEMALE. That makes more sense - how do I hook up with male threads? Cut the end off a hose and clamp in a replacement MALE end?
Garden centers sell double male end adapters. If you can't find one in your area, you can get a pair of female repair ends and clamp them together.
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Old 05-12-2006, 07:21 AM   #9
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The adapters for high pressure washers are brass double ended females. Should be in the washer accessories area at Walmart and the like.
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:41 AM   #10
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check valve...

I'm not sure about yours, but my old fill valve had a check valve in it - just check by pressurizing the system with the water pump (no city water supply) to verify that water won't come out the city (hose bib) supply.
Looks great!
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:14 AM   #11
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I used a male - male "nipple" to connect the Drop Elbow to the Garden Hose swivel. Home Depot had several lengths, I got one long enough so I wouldn't bust my knuckes every time I hooked the water hose up. I used some thread tape and haven't had any leaks since!
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Old 05-14-2006, 12:57 PM   #12
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nice work!

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Old 05-15-2006, 02:09 AM   #13
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I would be concerned about electrolytic corrosion, as this appears to be a brass fitting on a steel frame, secured with either aluminum or stainless steel rivets. Road de-icing chemicals or coastal air produce the "potential" for this type of corrosion. My usual reference source in these matters is the "Boat Data BooK" by Ian Nicholson, ISBN 0 245 50993 3. This, on page 70, gives the voltages of steel as -0.61, aluminium as -0.75, and brass as -0.29. The reference states that the difference between two dissimilar metals should not exceed 0.20 volts and the higher voltage metal will coorode away fastest. For that reason, a plastic fitting with stainless steel rivets or self-tappers would be my preferred choice.
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:59 AM   #14
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I've been noticing for months that some of my posts are not logged on my CP subscription list, and they also do not appear in the "last 24 hours" list. My post 13, above, is one of these, so I'm bumping this thread to see if this post also fails to appear. The problem usually happens when the attempt to post seems to fail, but the post appears in the thread, but nowhere else. Moderators, please delete this post if you think fit. Thanks.
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On edit, no failure this time.
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