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07-13-2012, 12:29 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Perryville
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 12
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Check Valve Question
I'm in the process of re-plumbing my 1974 overlander with pex. My question is about the check valve. When I removed the old one, I saw that it needed to be replaced as the severely worn o-ring just fell out. When I went to my local plumbing supply house to get a new one, they had 2 types (neither of which was exactly like the one I took out).
The first one the salesman showed me was a 'poppet' type which had a spring which held the valve closed unless water was flowing through.
The second one was a 'swing' type which basically had a gate which was held shut by gravity unless water pushed it open. It was easily visible on this second one, that it had no o-ring, just a brass on brass gate therefore I was concerned how well it would work at keeping water from going the un-intended direction.
On the first one, I was concerned that there would not be enough water pressure to force the valve open.
This is a long way of saying "Which valve do I need?"
Thanks.
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07-13-2012, 01:14 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
McHenry County
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,171
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The one I took out of my TW was a poppet style valve. It was rotted away as well.
I couldn't find anything that looked right either.
I just deleted the valve and replaced the female hose fitting. In place of the valve I keep a plastic plug on the end of the pipe. Never had an issue with needing a check valve with the inlet capped off.
Tom
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07-13-2012, 02:08 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Perryville
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Nugler
The one I took out of my TW was a poppet style valve. It was rotted away as well.
I couldn't find anything that looked right either.
I just deleted the valve and replaced the female hose fitting. In place of the valve I keep a plastic plug on the end of the pipe. Never had an issue with needing a check valve with the inlet capped off.
Tom
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I don't understand how this keeps water from the pump from re-entering the fresh water tank.
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07-13-2012, 02:29 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 28
Fresno/Clovis
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 704
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Your pump has a one way valve, and keeps fresh water from going into the fresh water tank when hooked up to fresh water via hose. The other problem is when pumping water from tank to fresh water system, it can go out the water connection if no hose is hooked up. You can put a plug in place of the hose, therefore stopping water going out onto the ground, or you can put a one way valve at the hose connection. All this stuff came with the Airstream originally, but failures and PO's removing them causes problems down the line.
__________________
Roger
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07-13-2012, 03:03 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Perryville
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger
Your pump has a one way valve, and keeps fresh water from going into the fresh water tank when hooked up to fresh water via hose. The other problem is when pumping water from tank to fresh water system, it can go out the water connection if no hose is hooked up. You can put a plug in place of the hose, therefore stopping water going out onto the ground, or you can put a one way valve at the hose connection. All this stuff came with the Airstream originally, but failures and PO's removing them causes problems down the line.
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Thanks, I think I understand now.
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07-13-2012, 05:12 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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07-14-2012, 06:40 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1974 29' Ambassador
LAMPASAS
, Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 22
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I thought I would jump in and add my 2 cents to your posts, since I happened to be working on my system today (74 Ambassador). It was purchased a few months ago, still trying to get my problem list shortened enough to finally use it for a camping trip.
When hooked to my house water supply, the water pressure in the camper would drop as soon as a faucet was opened. Expecting some mechanical problem with the Pressure Regulator, I started tearing into the plumbing where the lines go into the regulator. When I pulled the check valve out, there was a huge plug of old grass that had been stopped by the check valve. NASTY! System seems to work great now, at least from outside source (my 12v water pump motor runs, but no suction
I definetly will purchase some type of a screw on cap and insert with a strainer for the water inlet.
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07-26-2012, 09:27 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 28
Fresno/Clovis
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 704
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Also, if you leave out the internal check valve, and use a plug at the water inlet when dry camping, when u remove the plug, you automatically drain the water system ie winterizing. open all drains and done!
__________________
Roger
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07-26-2012, 09:42 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Ora:
Make sure you have water to the intake of the pump and that the hose is good on the intake side. Then disconnect the discharge hose and turn on the pump. You should get water out of the pump. If so, reconnect the hose. Open a faucet and see if you get water.
It may be as simple as that if the pump is not primed.
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07-28-2012, 07:10 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1974 29' Ambassador
LAMPASAS
, Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the info, I had already replaced all the original rubber hoses. I tried seperating the PAR pump, wound up breaking all 4 bolts, tried drilling and tapping. Wound up buying a new ShurFlo pump/screen/accumulator from Amazon. I now have good water flow from my storage tank. YEAH
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07-28-2012, 09:10 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1977 Argosy 24
Currently Looking...
Milltown
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,087
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If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
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08-03-2012, 08:55 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 28
Fresno/Clovis
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ventport
If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
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I plan on doing this now that I'm into the plumbing and pex to replace the old system.
__________________
Roger
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08-04-2012, 12:28 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ventport
If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
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That is actually illegal by most of the plumbing codes today. It takes a long explanation as to why, I will just say "trust me". It is also a good way to over fill the tank, possibly bursting it if you forget and leave it on too long. It is not really a good idea. In the 60's AS had a valve that did it as a "feature" but soon abandoned the idea, and for good reasons.
Standing and filling the tank with a hose is best.
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08-04-2012, 07:43 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1977 Argosy 24
Currently Looking...
Milltown
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,087
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I always open the hose fill to let the air out as I fill the tank with my bypass. I also stand next to it listening to it fill so I can shut off the water immediately when it is almost full. I only use the bypass to fill my water tank at home before we leave for a camping trip. It has worked perfectly for 3 years now. Don't know about the plumbing code issue.
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