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Old 07-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
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Check Valve Question

I'm in the process of re-plumbing my 1974 overlander with pex. My question is about the check valve. When I removed the old one, I saw that it needed to be replaced as the severely worn o-ring just fell out. When I went to my local plumbing supply house to get a new one, they had 2 types (neither of which was exactly like the one I took out).

The first one the salesman showed me was a 'poppet' type which had a spring which held the valve closed unless water was flowing through.

The second one was a 'swing' type which basically had a gate which was held shut by gravity unless water pushed it open. It was easily visible on this second one, that it had no o-ring, just a brass on brass gate therefore I was concerned how well it would work at keeping water from going the un-intended direction.

On the first one, I was concerned that there would not be enough water pressure to force the valve open.

This is a long way of saying "Which valve do I need?"

Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:14 PM   #2
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The one I took out of my TW was a poppet style valve. It was rotted away as well.
I couldn't find anything that looked right either.
I just deleted the valve and replaced the female hose fitting. In place of the valve I keep a plastic plug on the end of the pipe. Never had an issue with needing a check valve with the inlet capped off.

Tom
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:08 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Tom Nugler View Post
The one I took out of my TW was a poppet style valve. It was rotted away as well.
I couldn't find anything that looked right either.
I just deleted the valve and replaced the female hose fitting. In place of the valve I keep a plastic plug on the end of the pipe. Never had an issue with needing a check valve with the inlet capped off.

Tom
I don't understand how this keeps water from the pump from re-entering the fresh water tank.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:29 PM   #4
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Your pump has a one way valve, and keeps fresh water from going into the fresh water tank when hooked up to fresh water via hose. The other problem is when pumping water from tank to fresh water system, it can go out the water connection if no hose is hooked up. You can put a plug in place of the hose, therefore stopping water going out onto the ground, or you can put a one way valve at the hose connection. All this stuff came with the Airstream originally, but failures and PO's removing them causes problems down the line.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:03 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
Your pump has a one way valve, and keeps fresh water from going into the fresh water tank when hooked up to fresh water via hose. The other problem is when pumping water from tank to fresh water system, it can go out the water connection if no hose is hooked up. You can put a plug in place of the hose, therefore stopping water going out onto the ground, or you can put a one way valve at the hose connection. All this stuff came with the Airstream originally, but failures and PO's removing them causes problems down the line.
Thanks, I think I understand now.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:12 PM   #6
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just get something like this that has it built it. I what I used when I re plumbed mine
Recessed City Water Inlet - Lakeview Rv Supply Inc 3783 - Faucets & Inlets - Camping World
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:40 PM   #7
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I thought I would jump in and add my 2 cents to your posts, since I happened to be working on my system today (74 Ambassador). It was purchased a few months ago, still trying to get my problem list shortened enough to finally use it for a camping trip.
When hooked to my house water supply, the water pressure in the camper would drop as soon as a faucet was opened. Expecting some mechanical problem with the Pressure Regulator, I started tearing into the plumbing where the lines go into the regulator. When I pulled the check valve out, there was a huge plug of old grass that had been stopped by the check valve. NASTY! System seems to work great now, at least from outside source (my 12v water pump motor runs, but no suction
I definetly will purchase some type of a screw on cap and insert with a strainer for the water inlet.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:27 PM   #8
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Also, if you leave out the internal check valve, and use a plug at the water inlet when dry camping, when u remove the plug, you automatically drain the water system ie winterizing. open all drains and done!
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:42 PM   #9
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Ora:
Make sure you have water to the intake of the pump and that the hose is good on the intake side. Then disconnect the discharge hose and turn on the pump. You should get water out of the pump. If so, reconnect the hose. Open a faucet and see if you get water.
It may be as simple as that if the pump is not primed.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info, I had already replaced all the original rubber hoses. I tried seperating the PAR pump, wound up breaking all 4 bolts, tried drilling and tapping. Wound up buying a new ShurFlo pump/screen/accumulator from Amazon. I now have good water flow from my storage tank. YEAH
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:10 PM   #11
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If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:55 PM   #12
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If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
I plan on doing this now that I'm into the plumbing and pex to replace the old system.
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:28 AM   #13
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If you T in a bypass around the pump with a ball valve in the middle you can open the ball valve and fill your fresh water tank from the city water hook up. After the tank is full close the ball valve and the pump works like normal.
That is actually illegal by most of the plumbing codes today. It takes a long explanation as to why, I will just say "trust me". It is also a good way to over fill the tank, possibly bursting it if you forget and leave it on too long. It is not really a good idea. In the 60's AS had a valve that did it as a "feature" but soon abandoned the idea, and for good reasons.

Standing and filling the tank with a hose is best.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:43 AM   #14
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I always open the hose fill to let the air out as I fill the tank with my bypass. I also stand next to it listening to it fill so I can shut off the water immediately when it is almost full. I only use the bypass to fill my water tank at home before we leave for a camping trip. It has worked perfectly for 3 years now. Don't know about the plumbing code issue.
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