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Old 07-29-2003, 07:20 AM   #15
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1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
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I guess that first you could try backflushing it by putting a waterbed-fill type fitting onto your sink faucet and then hooking a hose up and charging it (not too much pressure tho) and see if it will wash anything back out.

Wouldn't that be the same thing as just putting some water in the fresh tank, and turning on the pump? I could just let it run for a while, and see if it ever stops dribbling....

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Old 07-29-2003, 07:25 AM   #16
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Originally posted by chuck

Wouldn't that be the same thing as just putting some water in the fresh tank, and turning on the pump? I could just let it run for a while, and see if it ever stops dribbling....
yes and no... you can vary the pressure up to whatever your city water pressure is with the hose. hopefully, brief exposure to a little higher pressure, especially with pressure escaping, won't cause a failure. the pump only charges the system up to a constant pressure of what it is set at (40 psi?)

or, when I replumbed the Bambi, I found a hardware store that had brass check valves. I just installed it down stream from the city water inlet but before anything else. perhaps that would be easier than worrying about the one inside the regulator.


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Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
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Old 07-29-2003, 07:39 AM   #17
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1972 25' Tradewind
Rogers , Arkansas
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Before you go to the effort to work on the check valve you found, you need to make sure it is the right one. Most Airstreams have two check valves. One is down stream of the pump to prevent shore water from entering the pump and the fresh water tank and the other is down stream from the shore water inlet and prevents water from exiting the shore water connection.

My Trade Wind has a bad shore water check valve too. My solution, so far, is to use a PVC plug from Ho Do screwed into the shore water inlet. I checked the plug before buying by taking it over to the garden area and screwing it into a hose. A local RV dealer tells me that they make the female shore water hose adapters with an integrated check valve. I haven't investigated this option. So far the plug works fine for me.
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Old 07-29-2003, 02:18 PM   #18
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Metro Phoenix , Arizona
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I got a brass hose...

...thread plug at Homey D, with a 1/2" ID threaded hole. Another solid brass plug 1/2" OD threads screwed right in, with some teflon tape.

I'm gonna try to get fancy, and tap a hole in the smaller plug, for a screw and a chain, so I won't lose it.
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Old 09-08-2004, 01:11 AM   #19
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1969 18' Caravel
, Iowa
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Check that Valve

I am reviving this thread to report that on my last outing (1st time using the Airstream for this year), out of the blue, the water pump kept cycling on/off every few seconds when all taps were closed.
Oh No, thinks I. I have a leak somewhere! I searched all the plumbing that is visable from inside the coach and couldn't find a leak. So, after thinking about it awhile, I went outside and discovered the water exiting at the city water fill pipe (it really shot out when I removed the cap and turned on the trailer's water pump).
So, like some of you I decided it must be a failed check valve but when I started to look for the valve, like some of you, I couldn't locate it.
One of guys from my WBCCI unit noticed me looking around in the trunk area of my trailer (if you ask him he'd prob. say he noticed me looking bewildered). He agreed that it must be a bad check valve BUT he showed me what he had done to his trailer when he had this problem.
So, stealing his idea, last week I made the following repair:
'Forgot about locating and removing the check valve. Instead, I got a 1/2" lever valve (about $5.00), removed the short stub with the hose threads from the end of the pipe on the trailer. Using a bit of thread tape, I screwed the valve on in place of that stub.
Then, screwed the stub with the hose threads onto the outlet side of the new valve.
This modification adds about 1 1/2" to the length sticking out of the trailer. In my case, I do not think this will cause any clearance problems 'cause it is located between the rear bumper and the rear of the trailer, on the road side. So, I think if I were to snag it on anything I would have to, first, bash the coach body and/or tear up the bumper (either of which would have me overlooking the damabe to this water inlet.)
It works great. 1/4 turn and it's open for hook-up to city service or 1/4 turn and it's closed for using onboard water supply.
Now, here is what I think is an extra benefit to this setup (beside being a simple, quick, cheap solution to the check valve problem): when I am hooked-up to a water source and am going to be away from the site for the day and evening, I can walk to the rear of the trailer, turn the lever a 1/4 turn and not worry about what would happen if a pipe should develop a leak inside the trailer while I am gone.
A real neat feature, especially with the daisy-chain water systems used a some rallies.
WBCCI #4568
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:23 PM   #20
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Pressure Relief Valve

Last weekend I dug into fixing some of my plumbing problems. Moving my water pump to gain some space in the utility cabinet, isolate the water pump more from the copper lines to lessen the noise that it makes and fixing my pressure relief valve. I'll stick to the topic here.

During my 2 week trip last fall my pressure relief valve started to fail causing my pump to cycle on and off and lose water from the tank. So the short term fix was to put a bolt in the drain tube.

Here is a pic of the pressure relief valve you can see it just to the right of the regulator with the drain tube going down thru the floor. The middle one is it out and the last pic is of my guage and new placement of the water pump. Here is a link to a larger size of the picture to the left. Link to the picture on the far right.

This was a bear to remove. I went to the local plumbing store to find a new one. They did not have one but told me that they are still available from Watts Regulator Co. It is a type 53 pressure regulator. It can be viewed here. I can get them from a different supplier here in town.

I got to thinking, do I really need this thing anyway ? I have a regulator in the AS and one on the hose for the hook up. I asked the plumbing guru at the hardware store and his reply was that he didn't see why I had to have it in a travel trailer. Soo ok, I'm not satisfied yet. I bought a pressure guage to put back in the place of the valve. I wanted to see what kind of pressure I had to begin with from the Sure Flo Pump and from the city water connection. I haven't tried the city water yet, I will soon. What I did find out was that the 12v pump will hold 50 psi static pressure. Which makes sense. Now I know why my 40 yr old valve was leaking. The springs got weak and the rubber was shot to boot. One thing I did find out was when I start the hot water heater the pressure in the system will rise to above 60 psi as the water heats in the HWH. Now I am thinking I may actually want to put this thing back in. ( I mean a new one ) . I like having the guage on there. It takes the guess work out of things.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this ?

On a side note, I relocated my pump and it is much quieter, plus I have a place for my jack stands now. I wasn't sure about mounting the pump on the wall of the utility bay, but it seems to work fine.

I welcome any comments on these subjects. I don't mind changing things around to make it right.

PS - I have a new pop-off valve on my HWH too. That was done before I even started using the HWH last summer.

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Old 01-31-2006, 07:32 PM   #21
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The previous owner's solution to the check valve problem and my solution to keep the open end clean:
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