a few days of my recent trip was at a "no hookup" site. I recently replaced my water pump....new one runs great. But I noticed that we seemed to be going through fresh-water at an alarming rate. When the water pump was left on, it would pressurize the lines, then shut off.....but fairly consistantly, would turn on again after about 3 minutes...then shut off, and again it would turn on a couple of minutes later. When it ran, I noticed a fairly steady "drip...drip....drip" from the city water inlet.
I tried to get a plug from a local hardware store, but they didn't have one....they did have one of those ball-valve shut-offs for the end of a garden hose, so i thought that would do. It fits the connetor ok, but doesn't really stop water from flowing in that direction...only slows it down. after running the pump with this attached, it dripped less, but when I opened the valve up to the "on" position, I heard a "pfffffft" sound, and water actually shot out of the line. So there's definately pressure in there, which there shouldn't be.
So I assume the check valve needs to be replaced. Anyone know where that is on my '73 safari twin, and how difficult it is to replace? is this a standard hardware type item, or do I need a specific a/s part?
I had a few problems like yours with the city water inlet. I bought a new one from camping world. With it came a plastic screw on cap. Problem solved for me.
The old inlet was badly corrodet, and it had a metal screw cap to seal the city water inlet when using the pump. I am unaware of a check valve.
Yes it would. But both the old and the new city hookup dripped when the pump was running and the line was not capped. You are right, they should flow more if there was not a one way valve somewhere. One more thing to investigate, I guess.
I'm charging my flashlight.....
Chuck, I have a late model 1972 double floor plan. I had the same problem.
The water line passes thru the deck into the TT on the aft road side of the coach, This will be under the bed, water line comes into coach, 90's over and there is a 1/2" inline check valve part # 04092.
The water distribution diagram and parts list calls out 3 inline check valves in the potable water system. I gave you the first location because it was the one that fixed my problem.
You can find this valve at CW or an TT parts and service store. The part # is an Airstream #. Good luck - Ray
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Cut to suit, Beat to fit, Paint to hide!!
My trailer is a 1971, and I am assuming that it would have the same or at least a similar fresh water setup like a Safari. I will start looking for these valves and replace the last one in line to stop the drip. The plug on the water inlet is doing a good job, but who knows for how long it will last. Good information!
Where did you find the fresh water diagram?
Found the water system in the owners service manual. I would strongly suggest finding the owners manual and the owners service manual. These 2 books are a plethora of info. I find it a breeze to troubleshoot my TT and repair it. The manuals are easy reading.
I beleive that you can buy them from a certain web site, Someone eles on a different thread posted it. - Ray.
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Cut to suit, Beat to fit, Paint to hide!!
Generally speaking, there are two check valves in the water system.
One is near the water pump. It's purpose is to keep "city water pressure" off the diaphragms in the water pump.
The second one is near the "city water inlet." It's purpose is to block the flow of water, when the water pump is used, from exiting through the city water inlet.
Generally speaking, there are two check valves in the water system.
One is near the water pump. It's purpose is to keep "city water pressure" off the diaphragms in the water pump.
The second one is near the "city water inlet." It's purpose is to block the flow of water, when the water pump is used, from exiting through the city water inlet.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
My 68 GT has a check valve at the regulator, none by the pump. I had a problem with water leaking by the pump and filling my potable water tank. Found this out at the campground when water started leaking out the fill cap. Good tight system as it went out the cap instead of bursting the tank. I didn't install a additional check valve, instead I installed a gate valve down stream from the pump in a closet. Easy to get to and isolates the tank and pump from city water. Six dollars for the valve and half a hour labor. It pays to know how to sweat copper lines.
I believe I have the same problem. When I use the pump I get water out the city inlet. Under the nightstand at the rear roadside I have a Watts valve. Is this rebuildable?
Your help is greatly needed as I am running out of time before we leave on a trip.
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